Come on, Ben. I'm a lover not a fighter.bscofield wrote:
Todd--suffering from a severe case of aspiring pipe carver overload this week. Sorry to have been rude and/or abrupt.
Super long Taper bits
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ToddJohnson
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Who said you were the one shooting? I've heard your pinko-pacifist comments before! You're clearly the one bowing down and getting shot in the backToddJohnson wrote:Come on, Ben. I'm a lover not a fighter.bscofield wrote:
Todd--suffering from a severe case of aspiring pipe carver overload this week. Sorry to have been rude and/or abrupt.
For real... when that topic erupts it really erupts, huh?
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ToddJohnson
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Yes, it does. Unfortunately, I think most of what's been said in the private forum would be far more helpful in the public forum where indignance over not being spoon-fed--or not being spoon-fed with the preferred spoon--seems to run rampant.bscofield wrote:Who said you were the one shooting? I've heard your pinko-pacifist comments before! You're clearly the one bowing down and getting shot in the back
For real... when that topic erupts it really erupts, huh?
With respect to the predicament at hand, let me suggest that a 12" tapered drill bit is in no way required--even if it were possible to make one using the relatively complex method above. For what it's worth, I recognize that the same method is used for butt-welding round stock, and it works fine if you have the right tools.
On such a minute scale--cutting a tenon of .09375 out of steel stock that's only .1562 and then drilling a corresponding mortise of perhaps .0950--and all of this with probably fairly basic tools . . . ? I'm dubious that anything like this is likely to succeed, but I don't think it needs to. There's no reason you need a continuous 12" taper. In fact, creating one along a 12" run would be virtually impossible anyway. You're welcome to attempt the machining and soldering operations above, but I would suggest you do this:
Buy this drill bit: http://www.mcmaster.com/#2986a51/=pce1s
Grind it to this profile on a bench grinder, sanding wheel, belt sander, whatever:
Drill 11" into your 12" piece of rod stock.
Buy this drill bit: http://www.mcmaster.com/#2986a46/=pchbh
Use it to plunge through the remaining 1" of stock. Drilling from only one side will ensure that your holes are concentric even if the pilot does not exit dead center in the stock.
Buy this drill bit: http://www.mcmaster.com/#2986a53/=pci5w
Grind it to the same profile as above with the taper spread over perhaps one more inch of run.
Go in about 8" with that bit. Do all of this before you cut the tenon or it will stretch and shrink so many times you'll never get a good fit in the mortise. Even with the 22mm stock, you'll want to use some machining oil or carnauba on the bits while drilling as they're not fully fluted. Reducing the diameter of the leading edge will also cause the material to heat up significantly because less of the bit is actually "cutting." Doing the drilling in these three steps will create a near seamless hole with no "shoulders." Now cut the tenon, remove the stock and cut the slit in from the other side. Good luck with your churchwarden. I certainly hope to have been "helpful" this time. Please do show us the finished piece.
Todd
Well done, Todd!
As a representative of the Tennessee Department of Transportation, I was afraid I might have to pull some strings to get your pickup truck possum-hunting license revoked, but you did me proud.
As an aside, I don't think the mortise-and-tenon is necessary. In fact, I've snapped more bits I've done that way than those I just sanded the oxides off of and soldered. And may I say, it's a hell of a lot harder to drill 20 inches through a curly maple tomahawk handle (or 16 inches of ramrod hole through a $600 stock blank) than it is to drill a mere foot of lucite, provided one has sense enough to keep from overheating the stuff.
I'm in the unique and unenviable position of being able to see both sides here. I absolutely suck at high-grade pipemaking, but I can do a better than competent job than many aspiring pipemakers at bladesmithing/blacksmithing/flintlock gunsmithing. I'm also not a machinist by any means. I just have the tools and know-how to make what I need to get the job done. Not necessarily in an aesthetically pleasing manner, mind you, but I can make it work.
Now to be somewhat helpful for those who don't have a metalsmithing shop: Don't think you have to drill the whole damn thing with a tapered bit. Tapered bits are incredibly inefficient at removing material. Order from your source of choice a 12" 1/8" or 5/32" or 4 mm drill bit and drill your stem until you're close to where you want to stop the big hole. Then take your soldered taper bit and taper the hole down to 1/16" or so, then drill it on through with your 1/16" or metric equivalent bit, extended by soldering or whatever, then turn it on the lathe, then cut your funnel and bit, and have done.
It ain't nuclear physics. Aerodynamics and fluid physics, maybe, but really all we're after is a good smoke that doesn't burble or burn your tongue.
I do realize there's an implicit cutoff between those who have tooling and knowledge of how to use it and those who don't, but I respectfully submit that that is part of the price of admission. Hell, I don't pretend to make high-grade pipes, whatever they may be, I just make what a.) makes me happy and b.) I can sell.
That said, I'm a hobbyist who sells the better pipes I make. I am not a professional anything but archaeologist. Take this with as much salt as seems fit.
As a representative of the Tennessee Department of Transportation, I was afraid I might have to pull some strings to get your pickup truck possum-hunting license revoked, but you did me proud.
As an aside, I don't think the mortise-and-tenon is necessary. In fact, I've snapped more bits I've done that way than those I just sanded the oxides off of and soldered. And may I say, it's a hell of a lot harder to drill 20 inches through a curly maple tomahawk handle (or 16 inches of ramrod hole through a $600 stock blank) than it is to drill a mere foot of lucite, provided one has sense enough to keep from overheating the stuff.
I'm in the unique and unenviable position of being able to see both sides here. I absolutely suck at high-grade pipemaking, but I can do a better than competent job than many aspiring pipemakers at bladesmithing/blacksmithing/flintlock gunsmithing. I'm also not a machinist by any means. I just have the tools and know-how to make what I need to get the job done. Not necessarily in an aesthetically pleasing manner, mind you, but I can make it work.
Now to be somewhat helpful for those who don't have a metalsmithing shop: Don't think you have to drill the whole damn thing with a tapered bit. Tapered bits are incredibly inefficient at removing material. Order from your source of choice a 12" 1/8" or 5/32" or 4 mm drill bit and drill your stem until you're close to where you want to stop the big hole. Then take your soldered taper bit and taper the hole down to 1/16" or so, then drill it on through with your 1/16" or metric equivalent bit, extended by soldering or whatever, then turn it on the lathe, then cut your funnel and bit, and have done.
It ain't nuclear physics. Aerodynamics and fluid physics, maybe, but really all we're after is a good smoke that doesn't burble or burn your tongue.
I do realize there's an implicit cutoff between those who have tooling and knowledge of how to use it and those who don't, but I respectfully submit that that is part of the price of admission. Hell, I don't pretend to make high-grade pipes, whatever they may be, I just make what a.) makes me happy and b.) I can sell.
That said, I'm a hobbyist who sells the better pipes I make. I am not a professional anything but archaeologist. Take this with as much salt as seems fit.
Thanks guys! You have been an huge help for me on this issue. I now have a real good basis for making this bit. Now that I have the technology I can make it.
Thanks again
Paul
P.S
Just a side note. Principles before personalities. I am of the opinion that these forums are a huge help for a pipe maker of any level of experience. There is not one among us who did not have to be "spoon fed" at one time or another. There is a significant learning curve to pipe making. If pipe making were easy, everyone would be doing it. By passing on your knowlege you keep this art form alive, and I for one are grateful to have you guys around.
Thanks again
Paul
P.S
Just a side note. Principles before personalities. I am of the opinion that these forums are a huge help for a pipe maker of any level of experience. There is not one among us who did not have to be "spoon fed" at one time or another. There is a significant learning curve to pipe making. If pipe making were easy, everyone would be doing it. By passing on your knowlege you keep this art form alive, and I for one are grateful to have you guys around.
Here's 2 cents worth of an opinion from an amateur/no aspiration to be a high-grade professional carver: you don't need a long taper bit.
As I understand it, you want a continuous diameter (I prefer 5/32") draught hole through the stem until you reach the v-slot where the total volume of the negative space increases slightly to "expand" the smoke, even though the thickness decreases and while the slot widens into the bite zone.
On a regular length stem you normally drill to the last 1/2" with a taper bit and then reverse the stem stock, drill through with a 1/16" bit, and smear the v-slot (circular saw type bit then 1/16" drill bit in dremel flex-extension type tool, small files) deeper in at least 3/4", at least close to where the diameter is a true 5/32". Instead with your long churchwarden stem, you can drill to the last 1" - 1-1/4" (first, with a long (~6") non-tapered full fluted 5/32" bit for easy chip removal, then a 12" long 5/32", removing chips often). Reverse the stem and drill 1/16" through. Then smear the v-slot further back and more gradually than usual.
For cutting the v-slot, aside from the 1/16" drill bit, small files, and broaches (jeweler's reamer/wax detailer), the best v-slotting aid I have found was suggested by TrevorT. I stuck a 1/16" jigsaw scroll blade in a little wooden handle and ground the tip down, tapering to a point. With it, you can cut a flat 1/16" thick v-slot groove 1-1/2" deep or more and transition well from round to rectangle.
Edit: I always start holes in either end of the stem with a short rigid jobber bit or the point of a forstner (used for facing on the wood lathe) to help concentricity and prevent deflection.
As I understand it, you want a continuous diameter (I prefer 5/32") draught hole through the stem until you reach the v-slot where the total volume of the negative space increases slightly to "expand" the smoke, even though the thickness decreases and while the slot widens into the bite zone.
On a regular length stem you normally drill to the last 1/2" with a taper bit and then reverse the stem stock, drill through with a 1/16" bit, and smear the v-slot (circular saw type bit then 1/16" drill bit in dremel flex-extension type tool, small files) deeper in at least 3/4", at least close to where the diameter is a true 5/32". Instead with your long churchwarden stem, you can drill to the last 1" - 1-1/4" (first, with a long (~6") non-tapered full fluted 5/32" bit for easy chip removal, then a 12" long 5/32", removing chips often). Reverse the stem and drill 1/16" through. Then smear the v-slot further back and more gradually than usual.
For cutting the v-slot, aside from the 1/16" drill bit, small files, and broaches (jeweler's reamer/wax detailer), the best v-slotting aid I have found was suggested by TrevorT. I stuck a 1/16" jigsaw scroll blade in a little wooden handle and ground the tip down, tapering to a point. With it, you can cut a flat 1/16" thick v-slot groove 1-1/2" deep or more and transition well from round to rectangle.
Edit: I always start holes in either end of the stem with a short rigid jobber bit or the point of a forstner (used for facing on the wood lathe) to help concentricity and prevent deflection.
Last edited by kbadkar on Tue Feb 24, 2009 5:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
For that last churchwarden with the tortoise lucite stem I posted awhile back I used a combination of the process Todd and Alan described. I did as Alan described and drilled up to the 1/8" taper with a regular 1/8" untapered bit. It made for easier drilling. One thing I learned after botching 12" of tortoise lucite is to clear the chips very, very often so things don't heat up too much. Once I figured that out is was smooth sailing. After drilling about 5" shy of the end with the untapered 1/8" bit I finished up to the last inch with the 12 x 1/8" bit that I ground a taper on followed by a tapered 5/32". I didn't have a 12 x 1/16" bit so I drilled from the bit end. I was using semi transparent lucite so this worked fine and I was able to match them up decent and take care of any slop in the matchup when I smeared my "v" slot.
Wouldn't a larger diameter make it more difficult to draw through 12", considering the larger volume of "air" required to pull a puff?ckr wrote:For a 12 inch stem you may want to bump the diameter up to 11/64.
I've enjoyed smoking hookahs before, but you really had to huff to get the bugger burning... which is an extreme example, of course.
Would bumping it down to 9/64" make more sense?
Hard to say. I used a straight pre-fab. It gurgled. I increased the bore, it stopped (well greatly reduced). While I am not 100% sure, it seems there is something about the length of the airway forming an over abundance of condensation which was compensated by the increased surface area of the airway wall with a larger bore.
I think a 3 foot hookah hose is pretty different animal.
I think a 3 foot hookah hose is pretty different animal.
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KurtHuhn
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I really, REALLY hate to bring this up ( 
) - but it's about fluid dynamics. Physics, unfortunately. I know that this is a sore subject with some folks.
The crux is that anything flowing through a tube will encounter flow resistance. The larger the tube, the less flow resistance there will be. Again, I hate to bring it up beer, but when I was designing the draft system for my house, I had to calculate the flow resistance of the tubing I used, versus the pressure I carbonated the kegs at, versus how I could maintain a flow of slightly less than 2oz/sec and not get a glass full of foam. In order to get a good quality pour, I needed balance everything.
So, a churchwarden stem with a well designed/crafted 5/32 or 11/64 channel will have less flow resistance than one with a 1/8 or 9/64 channel. The difference in air/smoke volume isn't enormous, but the resulting quality of the smoke is.
Now, I have no doubt that someone could make a churchwarden stem that functions just fine at 1/8", and I'd love to hear how, but all other things being equal, I've found it far easier to get a good, quality smoking churchwarden by using a larger size bit. And by that I mean one that smokes dry without the need the need to constantly swab the interior of the stem.
) - but it's about fluid dynamics. Physics, unfortunately. I know that this is a sore subject with some folks.The crux is that anything flowing through a tube will encounter flow resistance. The larger the tube, the less flow resistance there will be. Again, I hate to bring it up beer, but when I was designing the draft system for my house, I had to calculate the flow resistance of the tubing I used, versus the pressure I carbonated the kegs at, versus how I could maintain a flow of slightly less than 2oz/sec and not get a glass full of foam. In order to get a good quality pour, I needed balance everything.
So, a churchwarden stem with a well designed/crafted 5/32 or 11/64 channel will have less flow resistance than one with a 1/8 or 9/64 channel. The difference in air/smoke volume isn't enormous, but the resulting quality of the smoke is.
Now, I have no doubt that someone could make a churchwarden stem that functions just fine at 1/8", and I'd love to hear how, but all other things being equal, I've found it far easier to get a good, quality smoking churchwarden by using a larger size bit. And by that I mean one that smokes dry without the need the need to constantly swab the interior of the stem.
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ToddJohnson
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Fascinating stuff! Thanks for the lesson.KurtHuhn wrote:I really, REALLY hate to bring this up (
So, a churchwarden stem with a well designed/crafted 5/32 or 11/64 channel will have less flow resistance than one with a 1/8 or 9/64 channel. The difference in air/smoke volume isn't enormous, but the resulting quality of the smoke is.
