Contrast staining
Contrast staining
My first pipe is ready for color. I have read many of the posts here..great stuff and thank you.
I want to create a really good contrast on this pipe. I'd like to have some really dark lines and then a bright orangey tone. I don't want a pumpkin color but just a nice bright orange and have the dark brown/blackish to contrast it. I have read where you apply one color, let it dry and sand it out and then apply a second color but I am not very clear to the specifics involved.
How is that achieved?
Does it matter which color is applied first?
Is any heat used in the drying process?
How can I achieve a nice contrast?
I am open to all comments and even maybe a change of colors too.
Anyway heres my pipe. Someone said it looked like a "pregnant Peterson." LOL!
(a couple of the pics I dampened down the briar just to get a better look at the grain)
I want to create a really good contrast on this pipe. I'd like to have some really dark lines and then a bright orangey tone. I don't want a pumpkin color but just a nice bright orange and have the dark brown/blackish to contrast it. I have read where you apply one color, let it dry and sand it out and then apply a second color but I am not very clear to the specifics involved.
How is that achieved?
Does it matter which color is applied first?
Is any heat used in the drying process?
How can I achieve a nice contrast?
I am open to all comments and even maybe a change of colors too.
Anyway heres my pipe. Someone said it looked like a "pregnant Peterson." LOL!
(a couple of the pics I dampened down the briar just to get a better look at the grain)
The colors that might give you what you want is Dark Brown, and Light Tan (the light tan is kind of orangy).
You apply the dark brown first. Spray the pipe with alcohol (I use denatured) and wipe the pipe. This will even out the color so it isn't blotchy. When dry, repeat the process, dark brown, spray it, wipe it down.
If you don't have a buffing wheel, you can use "0000" steel wool and elbow grease or a really fine grit paper. The hardest parts of the wood won't take the stain all that well, so you will be left with the dark brown streaks of color on the straight grain and the birds eye areas will pop.
Then follow that with the light tan... same process as above. You will be left with something like this:
Then wax it.
You apply the dark brown first. Spray the pipe with alcohol (I use denatured) and wipe the pipe. This will even out the color so it isn't blotchy. When dry, repeat the process, dark brown, spray it, wipe it down.
If you don't have a buffing wheel, you can use "0000" steel wool and elbow grease or a really fine grit paper. The hardest parts of the wood won't take the stain all that well, so you will be left with the dark brown streaks of color on the straight grain and the birds eye areas will pop.
Then follow that with the light tan... same process as above. You will be left with something like this:
Then wax it.
Kim Kendall
http://www.PenguinBriar.com/
http://www.PenguinBriar.com/
A stain that is slightly more orange would be British Tan.
1) Sand to 220
2) Stain Dark Brown
3) Sand 320/400
4) Stain Dark Brown
5) Sand 500/600
6) Stain Light Tan or British Tan
7) Rub with 0000 Steel Wool or buff with Brown Trip
8 ) Final buff with White Diamond or (my preference) Menzerna
9) Carnauba wax
1) Sand to 220
2) Stain Dark Brown
3) Sand 320/400
4) Stain Dark Brown
5) Sand 500/600
6) Stain Light Tan or British Tan
7) Rub with 0000 Steel Wool or buff with Brown Trip
8 ) Final buff with White Diamond or (my preference) Menzerna
9) Carnauba wax
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
The stain colours given are all Fiebings.kola wrote:Is Feinbein (sp?) alcohol based stains what everyone uses?
If you're going to refinish the pipe you have illustrated above, I would recommend that you try to improve the shank/stem transition, i.e. the shank should flow into the stem. As it is, it really has no transition at all.
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Yes Frank, I agree that its downright ugly at the shank/stem area. I cracked it re-drilling the draft hole and I am either going to fit it with a band or just epoxy it together. That is why I stopped shaping in that area.
I am just wanting to finish the thing and I will probally just patch it with epoxy and some briardust. Thanks !
Kola
I am just wanting to finish the thing and I will probally just patch it with epoxy and some briardust. Thanks !
Kola
I understand what you're saying. Enough with this first pipe, I want to try another. Screw ups are par for the course and all add to the learning process. For a first pipe it's not at all shabby overall - carry on.kola wrote:I am just wanting to finish the thing and I will probally just patch it with epoxy and some briardust. Thanks !
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
"CA" (Cyanoacrylate) ... superglue.... and briar dust
it will take stain!
-K
it will take stain!
-K
Kim Kendall
http://www.PenguinBriar.com/
http://www.PenguinBriar.com/
- ToddJohnson
- Posts: 1366
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Nashville, TN
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Hey Guys,kkendall wrote:"CA" (Cyanoacrylate) ... superglue.... and briar dust
it will take stain!
-K
From my experience, superglue and sanding dust will not take stain. It basically always ends up black. Perhaps others have had varying results, but generally, if you're filling a small sandspot, count on it being black and not the color of the understain you intend to use . . . unless that understain is black
Todd