Woodturning Question

Briarfox · Post by **Briarfox** » Wed Apr 08, 2009 12:31 pm

Hey guys. I just have a quick question about what tool and/or technique is used for turning. As of now I exclusively use a gouge and work on a 90 degree axis to the stummel while turning. This works great for straight pipes. However when I make a bent I have loads of trouble getting material off the stummel do to the shank being the the way of turning.

I just assumed that I could only turn down the tip of the bowl and then hand shape. I was at a tobacco shop yesterday and they had some turned briar blocks as part of a display. It looks like they found a way to turn from on axis.

I hope I'm getting my point across. Any advise or info would be greatly appreciated.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed Apr 08, 2009 2:00 pm

I actually turn on-axis for almost all pipe bowls that I turn. I use a cutoff tool and use it parallel to the spindle axis for initial shaping of the bowl, then use either a fingernail gouge, narrow scraper, or re-ground skew for fine tuning of the shape.

Yes this is dangerous, and I don't actually suggest anyone try it. Author cannot be held responsible for contusions, broken blocks of briar, bent turning tools, or loss of limb or digit. Advice not valid outside of Western Rhode Island.

Briarfox · Post by **Briarfox** » Wed Apr 08, 2009 3:03 pm

Thanks Kurt, I'll give that a go

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:44 pm

Bear in mind that you're basically turning "off centre", so you'll be "cutting air" about three quarters of the time. Also, the tip of your gouge/scraper/whatever gets further from the tool rest as you get deeper, so keep a very firm grip on the handle.

Sasquatch · Post by **Sasquatch** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 3:37 pm

I imagine my technique and Kurt's are probably pretty simiar. I put the rest as close to the pipe as I can, usually at about 45 degrees to the spinning axis, and I approach the stummel along that axis, with a small gouge turned on it's side, so that I am still cutting with the bottom of the tool, but the actual cut is almost vertical on the piece (I am emulating a skew chisel). With a small gouge (check the Henry Taylor mini set at Lee Valley, for instance) I can cut right to the shank.

This is exactly analogous to doing the inside of a bowl or jar, if that helps you.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 3:44 pm

Sasquatch wrote:This is exactly analogous to doing the inside of a bowl or jar, if that helps you.

My thoughts exactly.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 3:50 pm

Yes, precisely the same method as the inside of a bowl, jar, or vase. Only difference is you're cutting the outside surface. It's not as difficult as it seems at first, but I do suggest using the right tool for the job. A fingernail gouge is the bare minimum for this, IMO. Life will be easier if you take a skew and re-grind it to a much more acute angle also.

Sasquatch · Post by **Sasquatch** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:58 pm

Skews certainly give the best finish, but they are also the hardest to master. A half-round gouge sharpened, as you say, Kurt, more or less with a finger-nail kind of curve, is a much friendlier tool, and much less likely to damage the workpiece in inexperienced hands (like mine). I'm getting better with the skew, but it is so damn unforgiving that I tend to use the tools I'm confident with. I'd rather sand some scratches than try to figure out how to re-shape a pipe with a big skew-catch chunked out of it!

Kurt, do you keep your skew really sharp? Mine is knife sharp and I wonder if I need to maybe burnish the end just a bit so it "skips" instead of digging....

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:49 am

Sasquatch wrote:Kurt, do you keep your skew really sharp? Mine is knife sharp and I wonder if I need to maybe burnish the end just a bit so it "skips" instead of digging....

I'm probably even less experienced than you at woodturning, but sharp tools is always a must. A skew shouldn't gouge or "dig", it should "shave".

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:10 am

I keep mine very, very sharp. All my lathe tools could slice off a finger if I'm not careful. As Frank said, it should shave. One of the skills to using a skew effectively is using a very light hand and "feeling" the tool and surface of the workpiece. Also, keep the shaft of the tool (skew, gouge, whatever) planted FIRMLY on the rest, and keep the rest as close as you can to the workpiece.

Practice makes perfect. It took me a while to get comfortable with the skew, but it's worth it to devote that time.

Sasquatch · Post by **Sasquatch** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:56 pm

Fair enough. I can see the results when I use it correctly, and certainly when I can get along the spinning axis with it, I usually win. I tend to feel uncertain with a skew when I'm forced to use it at angles closer to perpendicular to the piece. And when I watch something like this, I just wanna cry:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=28180

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:04 am

Holy Crapola - Now that's what I call skew control!! That little video gives a clear, concise idea of how to use a skew. I've bookmarked that for ready reference.

SimeonTurner · Post by **SimeonTurner** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 2:22 pm

I agree with everyone else that a skew tends to be best when trying to get "into" a bent pipe. It is definitely nice to clear out as much material on the lathe as possible, rather than just starting a shape out and then trying to sand it down.

Nothing's worse than a massive gouge mark in a pipe though. It is definitely good to practice with the skew a lot before taking it to a piece you are already really happy with/invested in. I find that keeping the skew immensely sharp helps me avoid mistakes because I'm not forced to "play" with the tool as much to get a good cut. It's almost always when I have allowed the skew to get dull in the middle of a project that I suddenly "KACHUNK" the wood and end up cursing profusely. LOL.

As far as sharpening goes, I find it is usually ok to start with a freshly sharpened tool, and then use a diamond sharpening card to give little quick sharpenings to the tool as I work. Briar takes the edge off really fast compared to a lot of wood, just because it is so hard.

Briarfox · Post by **Briarfox** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:38 pm

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to try to learn to use the skew, but frankly it scares the crap out of me. I re-ground a gouge to a fingernail profile and it works wonders. Time to watch of skew videos and try it out.

Briarfox · Post by **Briarfox** » Mon May 04, 2009 1:17 pm

Well I still haven't got the skew down, but it's better. I found this article online and made myself a very small Gouge, I gave it a fingernail grind and it works wonders. Thought I'd share it with you all. I used a 1/4" stock but after grinding it's smaller, not sure on the exact size. but it stays sharp and really lets me get into hard areas.

http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/ ... lGouge.htm

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Mon May 04, 2009 2:02 pm

Briarfox wrote:http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/ ... lGouge.htm

A word of caution when using a file on a spinning lathe. Always have a wooden handle on the file. I've read horror stories where unhandled files have kicked back sending the file tang into (sometimes through

) the operator's hand.

Briarfox · Post by **Briarfox** » Mon May 04, 2009 2:56 pm

Frank wrote:
Briarfox wrote:http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/ ... lGouge.htm
A word of caution when using a file on a spinning lathe. Always have a wooden handle on the file. I've read horror stories where unhandled files have kicked back sending the file tang into (sometimes through ) the operator's hand.

Ouch! Tthanks frank, I'll use a handle next time

LexKY_Pipe · Post by **LexKY_Pipe** » Tue May 05, 2009 10:39 am

Forgive me if this has already been said, but it cannot be overstated: Keep your cutting tools sharp!!!!