Thank you all for the compliments!
Frank wrote:Nice primitive, man. What is the guard bolster made from? Is your name laser etched on there?
It's actually electro-etched. I built my etcher using schematics (and then correcting the mistakes in them) from K-Net's documents library. After building it and throwing a meter on it, I found the polarity was reversed in the schematics.
daniel wrote:can you stain the bones too?
have you done knives for pipemaking too?
i mean knives with small blades, easy to controll etc.?
Yes, the bone is stained. When they come to me they're anywhere from cream colored to stark white. This one has several coats of Fiebings medium brown rubbed into it with a rag.
I've not made a knife specifically for pipe making, no. I don't actually use a knife when making pipes, interestingly enough. I know some folks use one to scrape the stem prior to sanding, but I learned to make stems without that process.
But small, quick knives - yes. There's this one that is used in my kitchen almost daily for boning chickens and other small animals:
Anvil wrote:Is that a real bone or just carved to look like one? The big question I have though is, how do you get the stitches on your sheath so nice and even?
That's deer leg bone. It might just be an ideal knife handle material. It's shape is perfect, it takes stain very well, it's hard as...bone, and it's conveniently hollow for inserting the tang of the blade.
Speaking of blade, I forgot to give details. The blade is 1095, edge quenched to give the spine some toughness. The bolster is cast pewter, and the other fittings are copper.
In order to keep the stitching straight and even, I used a stitching wheel.

I got mine at a fabric store I think. After the sheath is glued up and the edge sanded to shape, I mark the stitch line and drill the holes with an awl held in the drill press. Since my stitching wheel was designed for fabric, I only drill every other or every third dimple. After that it's just a matter of threading through the holes.