Third slipjoint, larger than the rest. Kicked my butt six different ways, and again, I learned what NOT to do. I'll carry it for a week or so just to see how it works out. Not real happy with the action....
Third slipjoint
Re: Third slipjoint
Kurt,
That shield ornamentation is superb! I wish I could incorporate something like that into briar...
That shield ornamentation is superb! I wish I could incorporate something like that into briar...
Re: Third slipjoint
Inlays aren't hard to do in wood, even something as hard as briar. Now in G-10...flix wrote:Kurt,
That shield ornamentation is superb! I wish I could incorporate something like that into briar...
Kurt, how'd this one differ from the others? Just the liners? I'm getting closer to trying one of these, I'm just too much of a hammerhead to buy precision-ground flat stock and I don't have a surface grinder to insure those nice tight tolerances.
No matter, this one turned out lookin' pretty good!
- KurtHuhn
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Re: Third slipjoint
Inlays aren't too difficult to do, just fiddly. They're best done to a flat surface, that way there's less to account for. Basically I held the inlay down with a tiny clamp and scribed around it, then using my dremel I cut out material until it fit. The first one of these I did was way sloppy, but for this one I switched to a 1/32" cylindrical diamond cutter to fine-tune everything after hogging to the right depth with a simple ball cutter.flix wrote:Kurt,
That shield ornamentation is superb! I wish I could incorporate something like that into briar...
Thanks!Alan L wrote: Kurt, how'd this one differ from the others? Just the liners? I'm getting closer to trying one of these, I'm just too much of a hammerhead to buy precision-ground flat stock and I don't have a surface grinder to insure those nice tight tolerances.
No matter, this one turned out lookin' pretty good!
This one uses liners, but instead of washers I tried for relieving the liners around the tang area. Frankly, until I get a benchtop mill, that's not going to happen again. It's basically impossible to do mechanically without one. I considered using my etcher to remove material around a mask as I've seen a couple guys do, but didn't - possibly I should have. It would have taken less time anyway. The action on this isn't crisp like the last one I made that used washers, and feels very muddy and vague, even with PTFE-infused lubricant. Beyond that, I'm actually very happy with the knife - just the walk-n-talk is crappy.
BTW: I've got the folding seax laid out digitally - I just have to decide on materials and come up with some kind of pattern-welded steel.