Attaching extensions

[Clemons]

Hello all,
I have been making pipes with extensions lately ie. horn, box wood ect. I use Gorilla glue and on the wood it works pretty well (wood to wood) but not so well on the horn. Anyone use another type of glue or epoxy to add an extension on? I wonder if the horn just wont take the glue well.
Thanks,
Greg

[geigerpipes]

For extensions I use a 2 component transparent epoxy glue that works great and a treaded stainless steel tube of the size M6 that I drill out to have a 4mm hole ( same as the draught hole) and drill up the mortise with an M6 drill this really ties the shank togeter as it is ecentially crewed togeter...

Best
Love
www.geigerpips.com

[Nick]

I spoke to Todd Johnson recently - at the Cols pipe show - and he told me he uses slim copper piping. Creating a mortise on either end of the piece and using the pipe as a tennon. Additionally he said he roughed up the pieces being glued with 36 grit sandpaper....I think.

One question when doing this, does one need to create an inverted cone on the pipe side of these mortises? To allow for a cleaner to easily navigate the path? Not sure if thats clear.

[ToddJohnson]

I spoke to Todd Johnson recently - at the Cols pipe show - and he told me he uses slim copper piping. Creating a mortise on either end of the piece and using the pipe as a tennon. Additionally he said he roughed up the pieces being glued with 36 grit sandpaper....I think.

One question when doing this, does one need to create an inverted cone on the pipe side of these mortises? To allow for a cleaner to easily navigate the path? Not sure if thats clear.

Hey Nick,

That's only for a bamboo, and most of them actually get stainless. The best way to attach a shank estension is with a double reverse tenon such that you've basically got a mortise and a tenon on both the shank and the ferrule. This way they interlock. turn down a short but fairly large diameter tenon on the shank and drill a corresponding mortise in the end of the ferrule. In the ferrule drill a smaller mortise to accept a piece of grooved delrin/vulcanite/stainless. Make sure that both ends have been roughed up well with some 36 grit paper or "V" grooved on the lathe. Then put epoxy on the double tenon and insert it into the frerrule. Don't clean up any of the "squeeze out". Now put epoxy on the protruding end of the tenon and on the face of the shank. Insert the tenon into the shank and make sure it's well-seated. Make sure and let it set up before trying to insert a stem into the mortise. If it's tight you can break the joint. I also caution you never to put epoxy into a mortise. If you do, the tenon will act like a plunger and push the epoxy into the draft hole. When you put epoxy onto the tenon, the "squeeze out ends up on the shank face where you want it anyway. Hope that helps.

Todd

[Nick]

Wow! Thats not complex or anything...

[ToddJohnson]

Wow! Thats not complex or anything...

Hey Nick,

It wouldn't be if you could see it. It really only involves two extra steps over and above a standard connexion. It goes a very long way to prevent expansion and contraction resulting in a perfect joint for many many years.

Best,

Todd