More recent efforts

[TimGeorge]

These are numbers 11 and 12, I think, not counting the ones I tossed into the fireplace. Quality improved substantially when I started using a lathe (no more misdrills), and then again when I ditched the premolded stems. Lots to learn on the stems, though. In one of these, for example, you can see that I sanded into the delrin insert just a bit. Forgot that was there. In the other, I got a little carried away with the zebrawood insert ....

No. 11








No. 12

[TRS]

Really nice looking pipes! I notice you're having the same issue that I do with gaps between your stem and shank.....? I'm still working on how to solve this....

[Nick]

Darn nice!! I did that with the delrin once. Worst part was that I used some white delrin! Still, it was just for me and it smoked fine.

[TimGeorge]

Beatus, each pipe seems to get better as far as fit goes but I am finding this the most frustrating part of pipe-making. I made a great leap forward when I realized that you have to make sure to face and drill the shank and stem without removing them from the chuck, and another advance when I learned to leave the stem attached as much as possible during the sanding and buffing process. Most recently, I learned that when using a delrin insert it has to fit really well to stay perfectly perpendicular to the stem face as the epoxy dries. It is only when I started working with pipes that I realized two drill bits of the same size may not really be the same size ... I have a feeling this problem will go away once I have identified the "go to" drill bits. Anyway, best of luck.

[TRS]

Yeah Tim, I went through (er, am going through) the same process. I started on an 8 inch drill press that required moving things between drilling; not good. Now I'm learning on an old lathe I bought. I've got the centering and facing down pretty well. But i'm having the same issue as you mentioned with the delrin. At least, this seems to be the conclusion I'm arriving at. The insert seems to be sitting in the stem at a tiny angle. If i bend the stem against the shank and push in hard I can make the gap close, but I have to have that constant pressure on it, or it just goes back to a hairline gap. In the two pipes i have completed I've managed to get it to where only a very close inspection reveals a gap, but i'm not satisfied with this. Keep me filled in on any progress you make and I'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks

Also Tim

[TRS]

Most recently, I learned that when using a delrin insert it has to fit really well to stay perfectly perpendicular to the stem face as the epoxy dries.

Working on my fourth pipe today and I drilled the stem and inserted the delrin tenon, only to be confronted with the same thing as always; the stem bending down at a tiny angle, leaving a hairline gap. I know I've been facing correctly and that it's this tiny inconsistency in the angle that the delrin's going in. I had a brainstorm and decided to try to epoxy the tenon into the stem while it's also in the stummel and pushed together in my vise. Alas, the vise is too small to accommodate. Then I recalled the Wiki about Using Delrin Tenons and the photo of the lathe being used as a clamp. I chucked the stem rod into the tailstock and pushed the stummel into the chuck on the headstock while the epoxy was drying. It seems to have worked thus far! Yay.

[staffwalker]

I used to have the same problem and figured out a way to insure it never happened again. After I tried the method a couple of times I posted the fix here. I guess I was ignored as no one ever commented back and are still complaining about the problem so I'll post again. This works every time, I been doing it for more than fifty pipes now and not a one has been off even a tiny bit. (I no longer have a slanted delrin in the stem after epoxy drys).

(1) Drill the hole in stem blank for delrin insert. NOTE: this will only work if you have squared the drilled end of the ebonite, if you don't have a square end, don't read any further because this won't work. Well, it will work but you will still have a stem that won't fix flush so it's a waste of time.
(2) Drill airway through stem ebonite with long tapered bit, I use 5/32. Stop the bit at the normal place you usually stop.
(3) prepare delrin, drill delrin with same size bit you used in (2), square the stem end of the delrin, (the end you will be gluing), if you leave the delrin a little long to cut and fit later you don't need to square the other end until you cut it later. If you measure and cut your delrin to be the right length at this point, square both ends.
(4) Slather epoxy on the outside part, (the part to be glued) of the delrin.
(5) insert delrin fully into the stem, make sure it bottoms out.
(6) Take the SAME tapered bit you used to drill stem blank, place the unfluted end into vice and tighten. Hold the stem with hand and while turning CW and pushing, push the drill tapered end, (the pointy end), of the bit through the delrin and into the previously drilled stem until it is inserted all the way into the drilled stem. You will have no problem knowing when it is in all the way. It will stop and go no further.
(7) Pat yourself on the back and go get drunk while you allow the epoxy to set up. The drill bit holds the delrin in perfect alignment with the stem. It is a physical impossibility for it to not be glued in perfect alignment. If you follow these steps it will work every time. After it dries, to remove from drill bit, re-tighten in vice, grasp stem and turn CCW while pulling. bob

[TRS]

Wow, thanks Bob! Sorry, I guess I did totally miss you posting that previously. I'm definitely going to be trying that on the next one; as well as this getting drunk' concept..... thanks again!

Tim

[TimGeorge]

Same here, Bob. Thanks. As a fellow north Texan, I may have to adopt you as a mentor in the near future.

Regards,

Another Tim

[TRS]

Double extra special thanks to Bob. Just put together my second stem using his technique; flawless. Thanks Bob! I also done got drunk. Sweet.

[mathias65]

ok, another newbie question.

what is the purpose of the delrin insert? why not just make the tenon out of the ebonite? is one way better than the other? and should the insert be used in an acrylic stem as well?

i ask because very soon i will finally begin making my own stems.

[Sasquatch]

Delrin has some advantages - if you break it, it's easy to fix. It is self-lubricating, so it's tough to get it stuck. There are a few delrin oriented threads in the stem work section.

[TRS]

ok, another newbie question.

what is the purpose of the delrin insert? why not just make the tenon out of the ebonite? is one way better than the other? and should the insert be used in an acrylic stem as well?

i ask because very soon i will finally begin making my own stems.

For a beginner like myself delrin also offers a slightly easier route. I'm new to the lathe as well as pipemaking and turning a tenon into the ebonite itself is a bit outta my reach for the time being. Like Sasquatch said, Delrin is strong and self lubricating. I like it a little bit more every time I use it.

[kbadkar]

Todd's ditty on why some makers (as opposed to Rad) use delrin tenons is must read...

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4752

[mathias65]

where does one find these wonderful delrin tenons? aprox. what do they cost??

[TRS]

jhlowe.com or mcmaster.com It's a very cheap rod of black plastic; most people go for 5/16 diameter. You cut it to length to fit the mortises in your stem and shank, drill/face/chamfer/bevel it and epoxy into your stem. Somewhere on the pipedia wiki is a very detailed description of the whole process.....

Here it is: http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Using_Delrin_Tenons

[mathias65]

thanks much

[TimGeorge]

Wow, Bob, I used your method described above for the first time last night and I now understand how a stem is supposed to fit. There is a shank extension on the pipe, and you cannot even tell if it is on the stem or the shank at first glance. Thanks again! It was definitely the insert that was the problem, and your way of handling that was perfect. Might have taken me another year to figure that out on my own, and that is why this forum is so valuable. What a great community!

[staffwalker]

Glad to be of assistance guys. Tim, it took me about a year to come up with this. I tried many methods of lining everything up, some times it worked, some times it didn't. Then I bought a slightly 5/16 oversized bit to drill the mortice in rod blank for the delrin because I like a little extra space for glue. This, of course, made it harder to keep everything aligned while the glue set up. None of my previous methods to align worked, one day it hit me, hey dummy, use the tapered bit then nothing can move. It works every time if your mortice drilling is spot on but nothing will work if the mortice hole is drilled crooked.