Drilling Longer Stems

[d6monk]

Hi again Everyone,

My usual procedure for a stem is to drill it with a 5/32" tapered bit to about 3/4" from the end and use a 1mm bit for the last 3/4". This works fine for most stems. However, I was recently working on a pipe with a longer saddle stem (about 4-5") and I noticed that having the 5/32" wide airway so close to the button makes it hard to get a nice thin even taper throughout the length of the stem.

Does anyone do anything different--for instance drilling with a tapered 1/8" bit to within 3/4" and then drilling with a tapered 5/32" to within 1-1/2" - 2" from the end? Would this restrict airflow too much? I would really appreciate any insights.

Thanks

[geigerpipes]

Nowadays we nearly ever use 5/32" or 4mm tapered bits as they limit you in stem thikness..Our standard tapered bit for stems is 1/8" or 3mm..Remember the resricting point is where the v slot meets the tapered hole ..So go deeper with the v slot and you will get the same airflow and mabey adjust the height of the v slot ours is 1.8mm when done in height

[Charl]

Thanks, Love. Great tip!

[d6monk]

That's interesting Love--do you still drill the stummel with a 5/32" or is that 1/8" as well?

[Sasquatch]

I drill at 5/32 tapered (or 11/64 in a really large setup) and leave that a good inch or so short of the end of the rod. Flip the thing over and drill with 1/16" to connect the holes. I then drill a second and third 1/16" hole on either side of the first, and then bash whatever remains with a hand held drill and files. So the slot is basically deep and v-shaped, and the last part of the stem can be as thin as you please.

You guys all know how to find EXACTLY where the first drill bit went to?

[LexKY_Pipe]

Use of the tapered bit is a must to ensure that the bit can be the correct size. I stop the taper bit about an inch before the end and then use a 1/16" bit to open the rest of the way.

[e Markle]

You guys all know how to find EXACTLY where the first drill bit went to?

I was just reading a post by TJ the other day, (and forgive me if it was a recent post - I don't recall) in which he mentioned using piano wire to continue the draft hole all the way through the stem. The point being that there's no need to drill a pilot from the other end, thus mitigating the possibility of a shoulder. Of course it would also answer your above concern.

IIRC he mentioned using #21 wire for that. I found it helpful.

[e Markle]

You guys all know how to find EXACTLY where the first drill bit went to?

If you're interested: viewtopic.php?f=43&t=3699

[mathias65]

anyone looking for 6" drill bits .. this is where i found all of mine. pretty reasonable too, i thought.

http://www.buydrillbits.com

[KurtHuhn]

You guys all know how to find EXACTLY where the first drill bit went to?

Don't move the rod stock between bits?

[KurtHuhn]

FWIW, Rad posted some pics a while back of how he drills stems - and it's pretty much the same method I use with minor variations. For this you *really* want a lathe, but it can be done on a drill press if you pay attention.

- face the rod
- drill the rod with a standard jobber length drill bit, but stop about halfway through
- drill with a tapered rod, but stop about an inch from the end
- finish the drilling with a long length 1/16" bit

And there you have a continuous hole through the rod stock. And you can make the slot with a dremel and #199 cutter without guessing where the airway is. I finish the slot to a "v" shape with a 1/16" bit. As with all things, it takes practice, but if you pay attention to detail, it's easier to get it spot on.

If you lack a lathe of any kind, but have a drill press, consider getting a self-centering vise for your drill press table, and bolt it down firmly. I've heard of folks having success with vises designed for pen makers - they're pretty much setup for exactly this type of operation:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200436 ... -Vise.aspx

To avoid having to raise and lower the drill press table, choose the length of your drill bits carefully. Try to make each successive drill bit longer, and use the entire extension of the press's quill. It isn't always possible to avoid swinging the table out of the way between bits, so you are limited in what you can do. Like I said, you really want a lathe for this type of thing.

[Sasquatch]

To find out where you have drilled to in a piece of rod, if you put the drill bit inside the rod you've drilled and let the whole thing spin free, you can easily find the axis point on the other end of the rod. This lets you drill from the other side and you don't need a 12" 1/16" bit to do it.

Simple and foolproof. gotta be if it I can use it....

[Nick]

I use two tapered bits. My first is a 3/16 taper which I drill 2/3 to 3/4 of the way through, and then I chuck up a long 1/8 bit that i have tapered myself (using a bench grinder and a hand drill.)