Modifying Forstners

[TRS]

I've been using a 1" Forstner that I ground the center point out of to face my stem rods. I used a grinder to take off most of the point and then a hand file to 'nuance' the shape as close to flat as I could. There's still a little hump in the center that leaves a small depression, but that is usually drilled out of the piece anyways. However, I noticed today that it is also leaving a small shoulder which is creating a small gap between the stem and shank which has plagued all of my pipes thus far. Is there a better way to modify these bits? Would investing in a higher quality Forstner possibly solve this? I'm considering just using a Forstner without grinding off the centering point (as the hole would be drilled away on the tenon end) but am at a loss for how to face the bit end..... Any help would be vastly appreciated. Thanks again all!

[T3pipes]

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... Prod100183

I found these at True Value, and have not seen them anywhere else. A 1/4 drill bit can also be placed in the middle.

[caskwith]

Get yourself a high quality forstner and dont worry about the point.

[Alan L]

Or if you're really serious, get an end mill. A big one. Four or five flutes, no center spur.

Are you using a lathe or a drill press?

[TRS]

Or if you're really serious, get an end mill. A big one. Four or five flutes, no center spur.

Are you using a lathe or a drill press?

I've got both and I knock about between the two. I'm really more interested in lathe work, but I'm BRAND new to using a lathe at all, so the learning process is taking some time. I spent a lot of time emailing various suppliers about endmills, cuz i don't know much about them either. I've gotten everything from no response to people who said that their mill wouldn't leave a perfectly flat surface....if you could recommend something that would be great. I've also got a strange old lathe; it's an ancient craftsman 'combination' lathe, meaning it's a wood lathe supplied with a compound tool post. I'm having some success with learning how to face with the cutting bit, but it still leaves a kinda 'grainy' surface. I think maybe i need a more appropriate cutting bit than what I have.....

[FredS]

End mills - even center cutting end mills - are not flat on the bottom. They are designed to cut while spinning and moving across the workpice so only the outside corners do the cutting - the centers are raised a little bit. That said, you could buy a 2 flute, center cutting end mill and resaharpen it so the bottom is flat if you wanted to.

If I was using a lathe with a cross slide, however, I would forget about forstner bits & end mills or any other tool in the tailstock and just face the end of the stem.

[TRS]

If I was using a lathe with a cross slide, however, I would forget about forstner bits & end mills or any other tool in the tailstock and just face the end of the stem.

This is the direction I'm heading. I had thought my chuck was jacked because I had some trouble getting one of the jaws back in (I fixed it) so I was back on the press. But I got the chuck working right again and actually managed to center the rod stock in the independent 4 jaw using the technique that I believe you, Fred, recommended to me wherein you just rotate the chuck and eye the distance between the cutting tool and the stock. But like i said, my cutting tool is leaving a much less than desirable surface. It seems mostly flat, but with some 'shouldering(?)' on the outer edge and it's very unfinished looking and 'pitty'. I think I need some sharp HSS bits....? Right now I'm using a right cutting carbide bit....

[FredS]

. . .I'm using a right cutting carbide bit....

Doesn't sound like it's cutting right to me!

I recomend putting the carbide bit in the drawer and using a sharp HSS bit. Also, it sounds like there is some slop in your cross slide and the tool bounces around a bit as it comes to the very edge of the workpiece and the cutting forces change. Adjust the dovetail gibs if you can, and take very light cuts to see if you can get a sharper shoulder.

[TRS]

Thanks again Fred! I'll get some HSS bits and give it a go. The toolpost and cutting bit themselves seem really solidly anchored. I think the problem with the edge is that I'm initially cutting in too deep with the carriage handwheel, and then as i try to hold it steady at the edge the cutting force is changing (as you said!).

[KurtHuhn]

I use carbide for rough cuts on hard material (wood isn't one of those) and HSS on everything else - even finish cuts on steel. I prefer HSS for wood. plastics, and vulcanite. It leaves a much better finish.

[Sasquatch]

A decent forstner will solve the problem. I picked up a 15 dollar freud and it's great.

There's a technical difference between and saw-tooth and a forstner bit. This is one of the few places that a forstner proper is actually better.

[TRS]

There's a technical difference between and saw-tooth and a forstner bit.

Yeah, I have a set of proper forstners, but they were on the low end of the cost spectrum...

But this compound tool post/cutting tool business is pretty outstanding thus far, und I think I'm gonna follow through with it. Just need some HSS bits....

[loosvelt]

I know this is an old post, and I a dumb newb, but could you just use something like a grinding wheel with miter guide??

[KurtHuhn]

That method won't leave an acceptably smooth surface, nor will it be as precise as you really need. I mean, you *could*, but I wouldn't suggest it.

[loosvelt]

http://www.trugrit.com/knife-tg-92.htm

You're probably right, but just to make sure I meant a 9 in setup like this.

-Nate

[KurtHuhn]

For that price you could get a decent lathe.

A forstner bit and a drill press (or lathe) will be much more precise and repeatable for facing stems and shank faces.

[prosmoking]

I use a drill press with X-Y Vise.
The end mill is a cheap set I found on Amazon, I think it came from Grizzly. It works very well for all facing and bulk material removal. It is a simple thing to mill then drill with a single alignment of the block.

[loosvelt]

For that price you could get a decent lathe.

A forstner bit and a drill press (or lathe) will be much more precise and repeatable for facing stems and shank faces.

I agree Mr. Huhn, but that 9 disk would also help me with my folding knives too. As you know it is hard to tool up to hobbies at once.

[KurtHuhn]

I know a lot of guys use the big grinding disks when shaping or profiling knives, but I never felt the need. My 1x42 grinder is the only grinder I use for folding knives.

Tooling for two hobbies at once! I guess I lucked out. I came back to knife making after I was fully tooled up for pipes.

[caskwith]

I know a lot of guys use the big grinding disks when shaping or profiling knives, but I never felt the need. My 1x42 grinder is the only grinder I use for folding knives.

Tooling for two hobbies at once! I guess I lucked out. I came back to knife making after I was fully tooled up for pipes.

Blasphemer! There is no such thing as being fully tooled up! There are always more tools we NEED! lol