possibly stupid question...

[DaGamba]

This might be a stupid but I'll ask it anyway. And if I don't get the stupid out of me I will most likely stay stupid...

How far do you guys sand a stummel if you know you're going to rusticate it? Until what grit?

I've been stopping at 240 (the next step for me would be 400) thinking that I'm anyway going to rough up the surface. Am I completely wrong here?

I'm not getting a really good shine on my rusticated pipes but then again I don't use shellac and I still haven't tried "the melting wax over the stummel" method I've read about. Would be very grateful for any ideas.

[KurtHuhn]

I stop at 180. That's the first grit I use after rough shaping. It's also the last grit in finalizing the shape of the pipe.

[Nate]

That is a great question, at least for myself, as I haven't even considered this. I will be better off now when I go to make a fully rusticated pipe.

Kurt would the same be true for a blast, or is the finish more refined for that?

[DaGamba]

Thanx Kurt. Now I only need to find out how to make that rusticated sucker shine.....

[KurtHuhn]

Kurt would the same be true for a blast, or is the finish more refined for that?

It's what I do - which is not to say it's proper or even suggested. I'm actually still refining the shape at 180, so to me it's a necessary step in my process.

[Nate]

Kurt would the same be true for a blast, or is the finish more refined for that?

It's what I do - which is not to say it's proper or even suggested. I'm actually still refining the shape at 180, so to me it's a necessary step in my process.

Ahh, cool! Thanks! The refining to which I was referring was finish (sanding, polishing etc.) rather than shaping. I meant after your shaping is complete do you find you need a higher grade of paper (220 or 320) before blasting, or has 180 worked?

[KurtHuhn]

180 is what I've found to be the best prep for sandblasting. Any higher and the wood actually seems to resist blasting. Any lower and the minor imperfections in shape tend to be amplified - and the scratches from the low grit shaping wheel can be magnified as well. It's the fastest and most accurate path to the sandblast cabinet for me. I know that other makers go direct from rough shaping to blast cabinet, but that doesn't work for me. I find it best to spend another 10 minutes at the wheel to be sure it's just right.

[Nate]

180 is what I've found to be the best prep for sandblasting. Any higher and the wood actually seems to resist blasting. Any lower and the minor imperfections in shape tend to be amplified - and the scratches from the low grit shaping wheel can be magnified as well. It's the fastest and most accurate path to the sandblast cabinet for me. I know that other makers go direct from rough shaping to blast cabinet, but that doesn't work for me. I find it best to spend another 10 minutes at the wheel to be sure it's just right.

I see, I can see how that would work as such. I only have blasted the 'poker' I made and it was a very light blast. But this is great information for later when I am able to do a full blast. I am thinking I should have on my brandy! Thanks!