Scotch brite on contrast staining?

[Dixie_piper]

I've been toying with a "junk pipe" for practice with finishing. I know there are extremely varied opinions on how to get the best finish, just a curiosity here;
I tried staining black @ 200,320 then topcoat @ 420 (waiting for finer grit paper, should be here this week) With using the black stain I've tried adding heat and many other methods to make it "set," none with great results. As soon as it started showing definition of grain, the darker grain would have "nics" where the black was gone. I know higher grit sanding may prevent this.
But on my last trial run, I simply used a scotch brite pad and was rather pleased with the control given the minimal penetration of my current stain.
I topcoated it earlier, gonna sand and buff tomorrow hopefully. Question being;
1) if there is a reason to fault the scotch brite method, what is it?
2) is it likely that the surface scratches will buff out, or should I wait for a once over with higher grit?
Thanks in advance fellars'!

[DMI]

I have 1500grit stuff similar to scotchbrite which 'cuts' very well.

If you are getting a layer of dry powder after staining you might want to thin the stain a bit, this may help with the penetration as well.

Grit wise I would go to at least 800 before hitting the wheel, and that would be stitched and loaded with a steel cutting compound.

David.

[Dixie_piper]

That's another thing I was searching for was a "grit equivalency"
I have a range of grits on the way, the highest being 800. I can't find squat higher than 400 at the "all in a box" hardware stores anound here.
I'm finally suited (as far as tools go at least) to go through the proper process for tripoling and waxing.
Another off beat question;
How in the hell do you get carnuba to actually transfer to the wheel properly? Dumb question I know, but my carnuba is in a puck and near impossible to heat. Maybe it is transferring to an extent, I can't tell a difference though.

[DMI]

Run the mop at a high speed and touch the 'puc' to it for a few seconds at a time, if you can smell the wax then it's going on. It takes very little wax to get a shine.

David.

[eder]

That's another thing I was searching for was a "grit equivalency"...

Is this humble table of equivalence useful?



This one is more complete in any case
http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/d ... _chart.pdf

eder.

[Dixie_piper]

That is indeed very helpful, many thanks Eder! I would attempt to phrase that in french, but for the life of me I can't remember anything from my French class except the females sitting by me in there Francais was fun
Seriously, thanks though!

Oh, I remember the teachers parting words to me were "tu' fic!" whatever that means