stem & shank space

[bandkbrooks]

I've been back to working on the classics again. I'm doing a Canadian (not a euphemism for fooling around with Sasquatch) to also work on that billiard bowl. I don't have a lathe so it's all drill press and hand shaping for me. When I used a forstner bit to pre-square off the end of the shank I don't think I used one that was big enough. When I shaped down to the diameter that I wanted I got a partial gap between the shank and stem. It fit perfectly before so the forstner is thus my first guess. With that being said, how do I now go back and make that end nice and square?

[Sasquatch]

Assuming the stem is not at fault, and that the shoulder is cut well on the stem, the method I use to correct a shank that is a little wonky is as follows:

rub a pencil around the edge of the stem, insert the stem in the proper position and give it a little twist. Remove the stem and you'll see pencil lead on the end of the shank. Take a small file and remove the lead. This represents the current high spot.

Repeat this until it fits, and make sure you aren't bottoming out the tenon!

This is the dummy way.

Another way is to lathe-mount the pipe by the shank, on a pin gauge, or even a drill bit if you have one that fits, or on tiny reverse jaws, and then you can re-cut at 90 degrees to the mortise.

[bandkbrooks]

Cool. I will give it a try tonight. Thank bud.

[TreverT]

That lathe method works best, assuming your gap is on the shank side and not the stem side (It can happen). Rule of thumb - If you can rotate the stem and the gap stays in the same spot, the problem is the shank. If the gap moves, either your tenon isn't 90 degrees perfect or your tenon is just a bit too long and is rubbing the bottom somewhere. A low tech way to correct this sort of thing is to get a pin that will fit your mortise and some sort of flat surface washer that will snug fit onto your pin. Apply adhesive-backed sandpaper (Fine, like 400) to the washer face and push it down, then slowly turn it against the shank face. It will gradually sand down the edges till they're even. You can check progress by staining the shank face black and then seeing where it rubs off, and sanding till it's wood all round. This is not a perfect method, but it's really all I'm aware of for someone who doesn't have access to a metal lathe.

[bandkbrooks]

Thanks Trever. I see what you are saying. The pin you are talking about though, it that from a pin set you would use on the lathe? Could I use a drill bit (same as the mortise size) just as easily?

[TreverT]

Thanks Trever. I see what you are saying. The pin you are talking about though, it that from a pin set you would use on the lathe? Could I use a drill bit (same as the mortise size) just as easily?

Yes, sure, anything that's the same size, just use the chuck end rather than the cutting end. The main thing is to be sure your washer is totally flat and that it's thick enough and snug enough that it can't wobble on the bit.