I spend WAY too much time sanding stems, then polishing, then re-sanding to get out the scratches that I can now see, then re-polishing, then re-sanding, etc. ad nauseum. One reason I have so many pipes that sit unfinished is because of this step. I hate this process.
I don't know if my problem is crappy polishing compound or poor methodology, but I would love suggestions.
Todd, you mentioned to me in Chicago last year that scraping the stem with a sharp knife was a nice trick, but I haven't had much success. I must be doing something wrong.
Help?!?!
Tyler
Stem polishing suggestions?
-
Tyler
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 2376
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Farmersville, TX
- Contact:
Stem polishing suggestions?
Tyler Lane Pipes
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com
-
abbeypipes
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: england
finishing
tyler
I used to have exactly the same situation when I used to be turning wooden bowls,the way I got round this was to start with abrasive that is not too rough,and carefully examine the sanding after each grit ,the rough grits can be uneven and make scratches not apparent to the eye I found using a stronger pair of glasses than I normally wear,a magnifying glass would also do to examine the sanding after each each pass.For my experience it was down to using too rough a grit at the beginning of the process.Another thing to watch is that a piece of grit somehow getting into the finer abrasives when sanding .Sanding is often seen as the pain in all types of woodworking ,pipes being no different ,and sometimes you take all the care you can and still find a rogue scratch----I guess it is is a pain not being perfect----arghhhh I hope this helps
abbeypipes
I used to have exactly the same situation when I used to be turning wooden bowls,the way I got round this was to start with abrasive that is not too rough,and carefully examine the sanding after each grit ,the rough grits can be uneven and make scratches not apparent to the eye I found using a stronger pair of glasses than I normally wear,a magnifying glass would also do to examine the sanding after each each pass.For my experience it was down to using too rough a grit at the beginning of the process.Another thing to watch is that a piece of grit somehow getting into the finer abrasives when sanding .Sanding is often seen as the pain in all types of woodworking ,pipes being no different ,and sometimes you take all the care you can and still find a rogue scratch----I guess it is is a pain not being perfect----arghhhh I hope this helps
abbeypipes
Tyler,
I can't help you much with sanding suggestions, but for final polishing, I would recommend tan, very fine high gloss buffing compound. Used with a soft wheel at lower rpm, it results in a very high gloss on vulcanite and a glass like finish on acrylic.
Grizzly sells it in 2 1/2 pound bars for $18 part # H0815
Regards,
Mike
I can't help you much with sanding suggestions, but for final polishing, I would recommend tan, very fine high gloss buffing compound. Used with a soft wheel at lower rpm, it results in a very high gloss on vulcanite and a glass like finish on acrylic.
Grizzly sells it in 2 1/2 pound bars for $18 part # H0815
Regards,
Mike
-
abbeypipes
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: england
polishing
tyler
randoms suggestions are good regarding the scraper,some woodworkers also use a cabinet scraper to create a fine surface ,they come in a manner of different shapes and I use them sometimes to shape a stem.They are sharpened by a special tool called a burnisher,which creates a minute burr edge to aid scraping.You can create different degrees of burr depending on how hard you press with the burnisher,if you don't want to go to the expense, a round sharpening stone will do.Another tip I found useful which I forgot to mention is that after each pass with abrasive go over it with 4oooo steel wool it cleans the sanding up and enables you see any scratches you may have missed
regards
randoms suggestions are good regarding the scraper,some woodworkers also use a cabinet scraper to create a fine surface ,they come in a manner of different shapes and I use them sometimes to shape a stem.They are sharpened by a special tool called a burnisher,which creates a minute burr edge to aid scraping.You can create different degrees of burr depending on how hard you press with the burnisher,if you don't want to go to the expense, a round sharpening stone will do.Another tip I found useful which I forgot to mention is that after each pass with abrasive go over it with 4oooo steel wool it cleans the sanding up and enables you see any scratches you may have missed
regards
-
Tyler
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 2376
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Farmersville, TX
- Contact:
Thanks for the tips guys!
Anyone else have anything?
Tyler
Anyone else have anything?
Tyler
Tyler Lane Pipes
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com
I usually just spit on the stems and the rub 'em really hard. Some times people give me funny looks, but usually I can get a good shine. Although, it seems everyone wants to add their own touched when I polish their stems. They inevitably wipe the stem on their pants or a cloth or somthing. I bet they see how fun it is and want to join in.
Old school woodworkers use scrapers rather than sandpaper to finish the surfaces. I was speaking with one such woodworker (My Grandfather) last week, he told me that broken plate glass makes a good scraper on softer materials. When it goes dull you just rebreak it.
The scrapers they use are very thin pieces of metal almost like razors. They are so sharp you are almost afraid to touch them.
something like this
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp? ... currency=2
The scrapers they use are very thin pieces of metal almost like razors. They are so sharp you are almost afraid to touch them.
something like this
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp? ... currency=2
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
I just got my order of tan compound from Grizzly this week and buffed an acrylic stem with it this weekend. My, oh my, what a difference this compound makes in the end product.pipemaker wrote:Tyler,
I can't help you much with sanding suggestions, but for final polishing, I would recommend tan, very fine high gloss buffing compound. Used with a soft wheel at lower rpm, it results in a very high gloss on vulcanite and a glass like finish on acrylic.
Grizzly sells it in 2 1/2 pound bars for $18 part # H0815
Regards,
Mike
A HUGE thank you to Mike for the tip!!!