Drilling Help

[andrew]

Sas is right on when talking about the bits. The one on the left is referred to as a split point if I remember right. That split point will make all the difference.

[Growley]

Like Sas, I put a slight upward slant on my airways on straight pipes too. I like to face off the block so the drill hits a flat surface. I then use my parting tool to put a center divot to get the bit started in the right spot. After that I advance slowly and clear the chips often with a 6" HSS bit. The other key to keeping it centered is to advance slightly then pause to let the bit center itself.

So here's another question about facing off. Let's take this example where we're working on a straight pipe but putting an upward slant on the air hole. In this case, do you face off the shank to the angle of your upward slant, drill, then re-face off to square or not?

Same question for a bent where you're angle difference is much greater. Do you face off for your air hole, then face off again for your mortice, or do you just face it off to square and go in a bit off angle for the air hole?

[NathanA]

Not sure what others do, but I face the shank and then drill the mortise while its still on the same plane and then adjust the block to drill the airway. Unless you are drilling something like an oom-paul there should be enough wiggle room in the mortise to get the airway angle you are looking for.

[Sasquatch]

I face the shank, then drill the mortise, then drill about 1/4" of airway, dead center. Then I angle the block as needed compared to the drill bit, and drill the airway to completion at whatever angle it's supposed to be at, using the little "starter" hole I drilled to keep the thing where it should be.

This fails on Oom Pauls, which I drill at whatever angle is required, and then fool around with the tenon shape to make sure the air flow works, or ramp the airway out a little with a tiny gouge or rasp.

[wdteipen]

I face off just enough to get a flat surface to drill my airway then drill the airway. I then rechuck and drill the tobacco chamber and turn part of the bowl if able. I then rechuck and drill the mortise and do my shank work. There are a few advantages to doing it in this order that I have found. I can genereally avoid those irritating drill marks in my mortise from the airway. I can drill the mortise so that it ends with the airway dead center in the bottom. I can adjust the length of my shank so that the mortise depth isn't too long or short. I can add shank adornments and do any glue work as the last step after all the other drilling is complete. I can still make minor adjustments when fitting the stem.

[Sasquatch]

Yeah Wayne, but some of us like the mortise to by deeper than 1/16" too, right?

[Growley]

Thanks again for all your help on this. I went out and bought some Dewalt bits that have separate cutting surfaces as Sas mentioned. They were actually being marketed as "reduces walking" so I got them. I found that they help quite a bit. I think once I master some of these techniques a bit more this will become a non-issue.

Thanks again.

Brian.

[wdteipen]

Yeah Wayne, but some of us like the mortise to by deeper than 1/16" too, right?

My 1/16" mortises work perfectly fine. I just have to make them and my tenon 2" in diameter to increase the surface area.

Seriously though, if you plan it out right from the start, your mortise depth should be around 1/2" to 5/8" for most designs. The design prep work is paramount. Some designs require a more shallow mortise. In those cases, I increase the diameter of the mortise and tenon slightly. Typically 3/8" works and gives you a bit more play in what you're able to accomplish in your designs. There are a few other tricks that I employ but it'll take a good deal of a strong alcoholic beverage to pry them from me.