Shaping Ebonite Stems

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 10:26 pm

When you guys are hand cutting military bits with the flairs, balls, etc. in the stem, are you turning them on the lathe first to get these details?

And what tools do you use for this?

I just got my order of Ebonite from Tyler, and inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks,

Rad

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 12:01 am

Not done vulcanite too much yet, but with acrylic I shape the entire thing on the lathe (except for the flat part of the bit and the button).

I turn the tenon first, the I shape the rest of the stem. Or, I'll insert the delrin tenon, then go to work on the rest of the stem. I use the tenon as a rough guide for size, as well as refering to my sketches for that pipe.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 12:58 am

But what tool/bit? do you use in shaping it on the lathe?

Rad

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 1:22 am

For flares and such, I use regular turning tools, as well as files and sandpaper. It's a timesaving trick to do as much shaping, finishing, and polishing as possible while you've got it on the lathe, then mask those details off with tape so you don't scuff them during the rest of construction. Ebonite turns beautifully, very easy to shape with gouges and scrapers. I exend a toolbit sideways to serve as a tool rest.

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 1:24 am

For flares and such, I use regular turning tools, as well as files and sandpaper. It's a timesaving trick to do as much shaping, finishing, and polishing as possible while you've got it on the lathe, then mask those details off with tape so you don't scuff them during the rest of construction. Ebonite turns beautifully, very easy to shape with gouges and scrapers. I exend a toolbit sideways to serve as a tool rest. But here's one for you, Kurt -- what do you use to glue Delrin tenons into acrylic stems?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 2:08 am

RadDavis wrote:But what tool/bit? do you use in shaping it on the lathe?

I have some beading tools and a couple "micro" chisels. They really work quite well for that kind of work.

JHowell wrote:But here's one for you, Kurt -- what do you use to glue Delrin tenons into acrylic stems?

I use two part epoxy. I drill the hole for the tenon and epoxy it in while it's still on the lathe. Then, once it's set, I begin to shape the stem.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 12:49 pm

So, these tools are regular wood turnng tools?

Thanks, Jack & Kurt!

Rad

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:10 pm

RadDavis wrote:So, these tools are regular wood turnng tools?

Indeed they are. I find them much easier to use in a creative fashion than a couple cranks on a cross-slide.

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:16 pm

Rad,

To this point when shaping flares on military style bits I have been using a standard left or right cutting tool and then I smooth it out with increasing grits of sandpaper and finally steel wool. However, the sharp point of the tool bits leave some heavy marks (relatively speaking) that take a lot of time to sand out (while spinning in lathe). So, I've taken the advice of many others here and elsewhere and ground myself a rounded tip tool bit. My bit looks something like the pointed one in the middle of this picture (from Ken Lamb's site) but is a little more rounded at the tip.

This should prevent the deeper gouges and make it a little easier and faster to sand and finish.

Jeff

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 9:34 pm

Thanks, Jeff!

Rad

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 5:23 pm

Ok, so I took a chisel and ground the flat end to a very sharp edged rounded point, and I've made a few stems with it. Worked great and I was able to accomplish what I wanted as far as shaping some flairs, and the stems came out better than I expected them to on the first attempt at this.

I ordered a thing called a "Spindle Master" from Grizzly. 1/2" rounded cutting end. It's supposed to cove, bead, and do a multitude of great things. I thought it would be a good multipurpose tool for shaping ebonite stems.

The first piece I worked on, this thing chipped the hell out of the stem! My homemade chisel shaper works much better! Has anyone else used this tool?

Are you supposed to sharpen it before using it for the very first time? I figured that the factory edge would be a good one.

Thanks,

Rad

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 11:11 pm

Rad,

I never trust the factory edge. I always hone it with a fine diamond hone, then an extra-fine diamond hone, and then a translucent arkansas stone (the hardest is translucent) to get a finely polished edge. I think most fine chisel makers suggest you hone the tools anyway - even Sorby and Crown suggest honing the tools before the first use.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:23 am

Well, this is a Robert Sorby instrument, and there was nothing in the damn instructions about sharpening the damn thing before using it, damnit!

I'll have to try that. The chisel worked great; smooth as a baby's butt. Maybe Mr. Sorby's "Spindle Master" will do the same once it's honed to a fine, razor like edge, the way it *should* come from the factory IMO.

Thanks, Kurt.

Rad

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:52 pm

RadDavis wrote:Well, this is a Robert Sorby instrument, and there was nothing in the damn instructions about sharpening the damn thing before using it, damnit!

Instructions? Instructions!? Wow, that must be one pretty fancy tool - the last tool I bought had naught but a price tag for documentation.

Against better judgement I went to Woodcraft today, and managed to get out of the store only spending about $25. Walking around the store, though, I spent last year's salary a couple times over. Maybe I need to get a job there....