Parallel spoon bit

[mightysmurf8201]

I was just curious if anyone has tried using these for their tobacco chamber.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/3_ ... /640-0261/

[Tyler]

Yes, they've been tried. Not by me, but I think Kurt has tried one. As I recall the experiment was a success only in the sense that he escaped (though narrowly) losing his arm.

I overstate the issue, but all accounts I've heard is that they don't work for pipe making. Too bad though! Those are a lot more available the the custom made version we need.

[caskwith]

Any idea what made them so dangerous?

[TRS]

Any idea what made them so dangerous?

Kurt.

[Sasquatch]

That was my guess too.

[KurtHuhn]

Oh man, I need to set up some kind of script to alert me when my name is used in vain!

Please, please, please do not attempt to use one of those bits for making pipes if you have any intent of using it under power. They are designed for use in a brace, and run at the mind-warping speed of about 45-60 RPM by a hairy man with big arms and a barrel chest. Use in a power drill will result in loss of life and limb. Notice that the shank is square and tapered. That's the first sign that attempting to chuck it in a Jacob's chuck is abominably stupid.

That said, if you really want to drill a tobacco chamber with one of these, and are okay with using meat power to do it, and have an hour or so to devote to the process, they will make a decent hole. Get a really nice brace here (costs more than the bit):
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 37&p=32300

[Archer]

That thing looks really neat. I wonder if the back end could be rounded over or ground down to fit into a jacobs chuck? It is partially round until it gets to those angles. Anybody think this is stupid?

[mightysmurf8201]

Wow, I'm definitely glad I asked about these, and I kinda figured that they weren't that great since I haven't heard of anyone here using them. I think I'll pass on these. Thanks guys for saving me from losing a limb or two. My wife would have been slightly annoyed with me!

[KurtHuhn]

Grinding down the one safety mechanism to keep you from chucking it in a lathe or drill press is...

Abominably stupid.

Please don't.

[Sasquatch]

(we were right)

[Archer]

That bad eh? And you avoided hospital bills how? LOL!

[KurtHuhn]

Shear, unadulterated, pharmeceutical grade strength. Basically I held on until the lath damn near flipped out from underneath me, then let go and flipped the power switch. This is not something that anyone who was never a powerlifter should ever engage in.

The construction of the bit is such that it will grab if you are even a couple degrees off axis - and you will be more than several degrees off axis no matter how careful you are.

Seriously, looking down the barrel of a firearm is safer.

[andrew]

Yep, I almost bought one of these to make chambers (with the idea of using it in a brace). I probably would have tried the grinding approach, but having a tool with that kind of side cutting action (under power) is pretty dangerous. Same thing can happen by boring with a round nose end mill (center cutting).

Only one thing I'd add to this. If you are turning at very low speeds, as in 50 to 120 rpm, you can use some pretty different types of bits. All bits have their quirks, and some of these quirks make it so they are only safe when used in a very specific way. The end mills tend to grab like mad and tear the wood rather than shave/cut, but if you turn at very low speeds and grind down the side cutting edges it can work pretty well. This has been said way too many times to count, but the best option without dropping tons of coin is a bench grinder and spade bits.

[Archer]

+1 on that. Cheap too.

[d.huber]

I'll just keep freehanding it with my dremel then.