I may be getting the cart in front of the horse, being that I am still trying to procure a workshop, but I have been thinking about a stem inlay (Not sure if that is the technical term but I am refering to something like Dunhill's white spot).
My first pipes had no nomanclature and thought that, now that I am looking to start making them again, that I should consider this design feature while I wait for a place to actually make pipes.
I can figure out how to make round inlays, like so many pipe makers do, but how about a square one? As I see it, the problem isn't shaping the inlay squared but the problem will be cutting a noncircular hole in the stem
Anyone know how this is done?
noncircular stem inlay
I have never done anything like this but here is some thoughts on it......
The problem is that you would not want to see any over cuts on the corners. Since the stem material is soft, I would try drilling a round hole in the stem that is the correct size as if it were to be inscribed inside the square inlay piece.
Then pound a tapered, square peg into the round hole. I think there would be enough give that the hole would give a little and stretch around it.
Then saw it off flush and cover with and thin layer of epoxy to fill any minute gaps that may remain around the edges.
Sand off the epoxy until everything is flush again, and I think you might have it.
The problem is that you would not want to see any over cuts on the corners. Since the stem material is soft, I would try drilling a round hole in the stem that is the correct size as if it were to be inscribed inside the square inlay piece.
Then pound a tapered, square peg into the round hole. I think there would be enough give that the hole would give a little and stretch around it.
Then saw it off flush and cover with and thin layer of epoxy to fill any minute gaps that may remain around the edges.
Sand off the epoxy until everything is flush again, and I think you might have it.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
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KurtHuhn
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I make square holes in wood with a mortising chisel and mortising machine. Something similar could be done with a very small mortising chisel for stems. Basically, it's a square chisel with a drillbit in the center to remove material. It does require some cleanup, but provides great results on wood.
As often as not, you'll find that such logos are a design centered inside a round ring the same material as the stem - some years past, I ran across an outfit that made just such designs. You could get rods of your logo reproduced within black ring, etc, and then you just drill a round hole, insert, and everyone wonders how you made this fancy shape logo carving. I've tried heated stamping and it has not been reliable. John Eells uses a super-cool laser cutter to script his signature. Anything inserted and covered will require some experience with liquid acrylics - again, costly and complex. You really have to measure the amount of trouble that a stem logo will bring versus its benefits, because few things can ruin the looks of a good pipe like a badly-applied stem logo.
Happy Smoking,
Trever Talbert
www.talbertpipes.com
My Pipe Blog:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/pipeblog/
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Trever Talbert
www.talbertpipes.com
My Pipe Blog:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/pipeblog/
My Lizards & Pipes Web Comic:
https://talbertpipes.com/category/lizards/
Today's my day! This is something I *have* done! (Dances in the middle of the street)
I'm assuming you are thinking a something similar to a pin inserted into the stem - based on that assumption....
Your best bet is to start your hole off using a circular "spiral" bit slightly smaller than the size of the insert. Drill as deep as you want - depending on whether you're installing the insert on the shank or on the vulcanite stem, you may wish to drill straight through into your draught hole. Another possibility is that you use a small bit of masking tape to signify depth: you stop when the tape hits the project.
That done, use needle files to shape the hole. Sharp dentist's tools can also be used for the rough work. (It's no problem getting these: just ask your dentist if he/she has any used tools - if not, ask him/her to reserve a couple when (s)he does - I got 12 US$45 tools this way, and 35 US$25 tools too. I use them for sculpting, mostly)
Be careful as you shape the hole - it doesn't particularly matter if your hole is larger than the insert, but it should NOT be smaller than the insert material - similarly to how you put inserts in wooden cabinets. If the hole is too small, you'll crack the wood/vulcanite. Anyone can tell you that even the smallest crack can be the doom of a pipe.
The best for this is if your hole is roughly 1/64" larger than your insert - a mere hairline (three strokes of a file!), but it is often enough.
To make your insert hold:
Full sized hole: Insert a tube (brass, preferably) into the draught hole - ideally, it should be EXACTLY the same size as your draught hole. The purpose of this is to prevent the insert from "dripping" into the draught hole and causing turbulance. Then put glue on the insert material. Epoxy glue is excellent for this. Use a dentist's tool to evenly spread the glue around the insert and carefully tap into the hole. Bear in mind that your insert material should be LONGER than the hole you are inserting it into so that you can shape it to the shape of the stem/shank.
Partial hole: The partial hole should be about 3/4 of the radius of the stem. Shaping is done the same as above, however a latex-based fixative (like caulking) is acceptable, as is wood or superglue.
Inserting into clear or translucent acrylic is a pain - drilling causes scratch marks that are visible and reduces the value of the pipe. It is often best to cast the acrylic (like you would glass or metal) with the holes in it, thereby reducing the scratching. Superglue is NOT good in this instance, because it clouds the glass-like material. Epoxy and wood glue are your best bets. Molten acrylic can also be used to fill holes, but be sure to fill the draught hole to prevent drip through.
Burning (branding) can be easily done: you just have to make the metal very hot (near yellow, or 1200 degrees farenheight) and rock the metal back and forth. This takes practice, but is worthwhile. If you want instruction on making a branding iron with your design, I can do that....
Any questions?
I hope that helps Brendhain!
I'm assuming you are thinking a something similar to a pin inserted into the stem - based on that assumption....
Your best bet is to start your hole off using a circular "spiral" bit slightly smaller than the size of the insert. Drill as deep as you want - depending on whether you're installing the insert on the shank or on the vulcanite stem, you may wish to drill straight through into your draught hole. Another possibility is that you use a small bit of masking tape to signify depth: you stop when the tape hits the project.
That done, use needle files to shape the hole. Sharp dentist's tools can also be used for the rough work. (It's no problem getting these: just ask your dentist if he/she has any used tools - if not, ask him/her to reserve a couple when (s)he does - I got 12 US$45 tools this way, and 35 US$25 tools too. I use them for sculpting, mostly)
Be careful as you shape the hole - it doesn't particularly matter if your hole is larger than the insert, but it should NOT be smaller than the insert material - similarly to how you put inserts in wooden cabinets. If the hole is too small, you'll crack the wood/vulcanite. Anyone can tell you that even the smallest crack can be the doom of a pipe.
The best for this is if your hole is roughly 1/64" larger than your insert - a mere hairline (three strokes of a file!), but it is often enough.
To make your insert hold:
Full sized hole: Insert a tube (brass, preferably) into the draught hole - ideally, it should be EXACTLY the same size as your draught hole. The purpose of this is to prevent the insert from "dripping" into the draught hole and causing turbulance. Then put glue on the insert material. Epoxy glue is excellent for this. Use a dentist's tool to evenly spread the glue around the insert and carefully tap into the hole. Bear in mind that your insert material should be LONGER than the hole you are inserting it into so that you can shape it to the shape of the stem/shank.
Partial hole: The partial hole should be about 3/4 of the radius of the stem. Shaping is done the same as above, however a latex-based fixative (like caulking) is acceptable, as is wood or superglue.
Inserting into clear or translucent acrylic is a pain - drilling causes scratch marks that are visible and reduces the value of the pipe. It is often best to cast the acrylic (like you would glass or metal) with the holes in it, thereby reducing the scratching. Superglue is NOT good in this instance, because it clouds the glass-like material. Epoxy and wood glue are your best bets. Molten acrylic can also be used to fill holes, but be sure to fill the draught hole to prevent drip through.
Burning (branding) can be easily done: you just have to make the metal very hot (near yellow, or 1200 degrees farenheight) and rock the metal back and forth. This takes practice, but is worthwhile. If you want instruction on making a branding iron with your design, I can do that....
Any questions?
I hope that helps Brendhain!
I like that advice, AAdomeit.
As to "other questions":
Is there anything wrong with putting the insert into a rod before drilling the draft hole? This way, the the issue of clogging the draft howl is irrelevant and the stem can be shaped with the insert in it thus shapping both at the same time. Of coarse, this is assuming that the insert material is soft or workable enough to do this.
The second (set of)question(s), I have used apoxy but has anyone used a hot glue gun on a pipe stem or extension? Are there any issues or concerns with using a gun of which I am unaware? I don't know much about them but it seems to have benefits, especially when filling larger gaps.
As to "other questions":
Is there anything wrong with putting the insert into a rod before drilling the draft hole? This way, the the issue of clogging the draft howl is irrelevant and the stem can be shaped with the insert in it thus shapping both at the same time. Of coarse, this is assuming that the insert material is soft or workable enough to do this.
The second (set of)question(s), I have used apoxy but has anyone used a hot glue gun on a pipe stem or extension? Are there any issues or concerns with using a gun of which I am unaware? I don't know much about them but it seems to have benefits, especially when filling larger gaps.
Gud forbanat! Du ar Svensk! Jag ochsa! Heheh!
I'm assuming you are using the term 'rod' to indicate the the vulcanite stem?
I would not suggest this, frankly. An insert varies in strength, as you know, and a softer material would not typically damage anything. However, the epoxy is MUCH harder than either the vulcanite or the insert material. If your drill bit catches the epoxy at the wrong angle, you will have a spin going on. You can crack the insert and destroy an entire piece of stem material that way. In a similar manner, this is why you want to do as little lathe work on glued wood as possible (I've done it, and I have the scar to prove it....and I'm short the $500 to replace the lathe next to the one I was using!!) It can be done, and it would be a time saving measure, but it is risky. It's up to you if you want to try it.
Hot glue is not a good idea - for crafts with your kids, sure, but not (IMO) for pipe making. The glue sticks are made from a petroleum base, and can be toxic. Hot glue melts at low temperatures (whereas epoxy . . . well, I've used a butane torch to see if I could get it to melt and it didn't) and the fumes are horrid. i imagine they'd taste even worse. On top of that, the constant heat from the smoke would cause the hot glue to seize and contract while simutaneously expanding. You could lose your extension, and, should there be glue in the pipe stem, turbulence could occur. Hot glue is virtually uncontrollable and therefore the bane of the pipemaker - who requires dependability in just about everything (briar excluded, of course)
Did that answer your questions? Any more?
I'm assuming you are using the term 'rod' to indicate the the vulcanite stem?
I would not suggest this, frankly. An insert varies in strength, as you know, and a softer material would not typically damage anything. However, the epoxy is MUCH harder than either the vulcanite or the insert material. If your drill bit catches the epoxy at the wrong angle, you will have a spin going on. You can crack the insert and destroy an entire piece of stem material that way. In a similar manner, this is why you want to do as little lathe work on glued wood as possible (I've done it, and I have the scar to prove it....and I'm short the $500 to replace the lathe next to the one I was using!!) It can be done, and it would be a time saving measure, but it is risky. It's up to you if you want to try it.
Hot glue is not a good idea - for crafts with your kids, sure, but not (IMO) for pipe making. The glue sticks are made from a petroleum base, and can be toxic. Hot glue melts at low temperatures (whereas epoxy . . . well, I've used a butane torch to see if I could get it to melt and it didn't) and the fumes are horrid. i imagine they'd taste even worse. On top of that, the constant heat from the smoke would cause the hot glue to seize and contract while simutaneously expanding. You could lose your extension, and, should there be glue in the pipe stem, turbulence could occur. Hot glue is virtually uncontrollable and therefore the bane of the pipemaker - who requires dependability in just about everything (briar excluded, of course)
Did that answer your questions? Any more?