Metal Lathe maintenance specific to pipe makers...

[meathod]

So I've had a Taig metal lathe for quite some time, and absolutely love it, but I just purchased a Logan 10" metal lathe and had some questions while I'm in the process of disassembly, cleaning, and repainting.

I'm just wondering if there is any specific maintenance that you would have to do on a metal lathe used for wood? Does sawdust stick to the ways when they are lubed? Is it better to oil the machine more lightly if you're turning wood?

The carriage assembly has an oil sump, do I have to worry about saw dust getting in there and gumming up the gears?

Any information would be useful!

[JHowell]

The worst thing for your metal lathe is the abrasive grit from sanding. Briar dust will soak up oil, so diligent maintenance is to clean the ways and re-lube after each day's work, but wood dust isn't all that abrasive on its own. Logans don't have an oiling system, so you do need to keep up with it. The ways are also not hardened -- not that hardening helps all that much when grit gets between the saddle and the ways -- so you should be diligent about covering the ways with something and using dust collection if available when sanding. After sanding, wipe the ways off and re-oil.

That's if you're fussed about keeping your metal lathe tight for machining metal. As I've said before, it's nearly impossible for a lathe to be too worn out to make pipes. Worst part is when the tailstock bearing surfaces get worn down, but even that you can shim up to get the barrel level again.

As far as the apron gears go, no worries, that's pretty well sealed. QC gear box and apron are the same as on the 11 inch; one of Logan's better bits. Sturdy, good clutch. No clutch on the power feed for the non-quick change 10 inch, so if you crash it it stays crashed.

[meathod]

That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for, Thanks Jack!