Showing off my new Logan lathe! (updated with before shots)

[meathod]

So I just spent the entire week restoring this Logan 821. Here's the result! I'm really happy with how it turned out, can't wait to start making some pipes with it.

The colour scheme was inspired by the planet Tatooine from Star Wars, because I'm a huge nerd.

[jogilli]

very nice restore....

james

[tommy24a]

Nice Job!

[caskwith]

Excellent work, and I love the colour.

[d.huber]

Great job! It looks brand spankin' new. Can't wait to see that thing get a little dirty.

[Nate]

Beautiful!

[The Smoking Yeti]

That's puuuurty! Can you do some before n after comparisons?

[mredmond]

Very nice!

[meathod]

That's puuuurty! Can you do some before n after comparisons?

Unfortunately I forgot to take before photos... I think I was just too excited to get started on it, haha.

I really should have taken those before shots though... *sigh*


and thanks all!!

[wdteipen]

Sweet!

[andrew]

That is a beautiful machine.

[Charl]

It's a beaut!

[Cory]

Very nice! I love the color.

[Zeppo-]

Very beautiful, it's a pleasure to see one cleaned up like that, It looks better then new. I have the same lathe in considerably rougher condition. How did you get the ways, cranks etc. so clean?

[meathod]

Very beautiful, it's a pleasure to see one cleaned up like that, It looks better then new. I have the same lathe in considerably rougher condition. How did you get the ways, cranks etc. so clean?

-Palmer

Thanks! The cranks I just used some abrasive pads and a powered rotary wire brush. I liked the satin finish, it's a bit different than the mirror finish some machines have on the cranks. The ways were in really good shape when I bought the machine, so I didn't tamper with them much, just removed some very minor surface rust and re-lubed them.

On everything else, I submerged some parts in drano and water (lye), and other parts I intended to paint I used dish soap/water a scrub brush and power washer. It's best to avoid using water for the cleaning, as you'll have to be really quick about drying it off thoroughly with an air hose, lest you create more rust and problems. So for most of the pieces I used LPS industrial brake cleaner, which just eats grease and grime like it's nothing, then quickly evaporates leaving a surface ready for paint or polishing.

For everything that wasn't painted, I polished the surfaces on a bench top grinder with a wire wheel. This was used a lot, and was a huge time saver!

I managed to get some photos from the guy who sold it to me. Here are the before shots.

[oklahoma red]

Nice job. I'm in the infant stages (taking apart) of my rebuild on a 1943 model 850. It has been converted back to a conventional lathe with a standard tail stock and cross slide. This model doesn't have the quick change gear box as the original intent was not threading. I have all the change gears and they don't look like they have ever been used.
Did you have to replace many parts? Mine needs some bushings and a new motor (so far anyway). My bull gear has one tooth half gone. I'm debating on pulling the spindle and either fixing or replacing it. If I do pull it I'll go back with an endless belt.
What brand and type of paint did you use? I've seen a lot of recommendations on Benjamin Moore M22. Did you brush or spray?
Your "before" paint color is the factory original. Did you remove the head stock?
I have a ton of questions. Do you mind if I PM you as I progress?
Chas.

[meathod]

Pm's welcomed, but why not keep it in this thread so others can read it for all eternity? Either way.

I didn't have to replace anything thankfully. The guy I bough it from used it periodically for the past 4 years, and he said he got it from some basement somewhere... so I don't think it's had a lot of use, but who knows.

You can fix that bull gear with some brazing, since a replacement is very expensive. Mine actually came with a different bull gear, perhaps from a 11" model, I'm not sure. It seems to be more heavy duty than the original. The original came with it also, but it has a few teeth repaired with brazing.

I've read that you shouldn't pull the spindle unless absolutely necessary, since it's tough to get back into alignment...or something, I'm not sure.

I used Tremclad oil based paint for metal. Nothing fancy, cheap. 4 coats. I used a 2" brush, and fine detail brush for small spaces.

The "before" paint actually isn't original factory, it's a few shades darker. The original grey paint was right under it though.

I removed the head stock, but not the spindle, which was the only thing I didn't disassemble, the bearings are still completely fine, so there was no need.

keep the questions coming!

[oklahoma red]

We'll keep it going here and educate as many as possible. I thank you for your indulgence.

My apron/saddle does not have the clutch in it but there is still a lot going on in there with the power cross feed. Did you remove the saddle off of the end of the bed after unfastening the bearing block for the travel screw or disassemble it all while still on the bed? I've removed big wheel for moving the saddle, the compound slide and the cross feed cover and I've got the cross feed shaft loose and ready to come out but the worm gear is blocking complete removal so my next step is the saddle itself. I've removed the long skinny plate from the underneath back side of the saddle that holds it on the rear way. Need to know the best way to proceed from here.
I take it the gear repair had already been done when you got yours? Surely that would have to be done off the lathe? Boring the tobacco chamber is probably the heaviest cut this lathe will ever see as long as I own it. Half the tooth is still there. Perhaps the repair won't be needed with low strain.
That's all for now. Just looking for the best/easiest way to tear down the saddle, slide it off or go piece by piece where it sits.
Thanks,
Chas.

[meathod]

I removed the entire apron/cross slide assembly from the bed before disassembling anything, this made it much easier to maneuver and take apart. I'm kind of lost as to where you are, perhaps the design of our lathes is slightly different. I didn't encounter any strange problems, it was all pretty straight forward, if you see a screw, unscrew it, if you see a bolt, unbolt it. It all just comes apart on it's own. At least, that's how I did it.

Gear repair was already done, yes. And yes it would probably have to be done off the lathe. Also, you may never use the bull gear anyhow, since most of your turning will be done at higher speeds I assume. I wouldn't worry about repairing it at this point.

Anyhow, definitely take the saddle off. It's super easy, just remove the bearing block like you mentioned and slide it off. Then you can put it on the bench and have your way with it. haha.

[oklahoma red]

Thanks for the tip. Off the end of the bed it shall be.
Yes, there are some differences. As I stated earlier the 850 was originally a turret lathe with an indexing tail stock and a lever operated two station cross slide and no quick change gear box.
I like to bore the tobacco chamber at low speed so I intend to use the back gear. I'll decide what to do about it later on.
Once again, thanks and I'm sure I will have more questions down the line.
Chas.