The only shaping to be done on the band saw, IMO is cutting the profile of the shape after you've drawn it on the block.wmolaw wrote:Hmmm, know what, I took your advice and you were 100% right, the 3-4 tpi blade cut like hell.taharris wrote:It all really depends on what you want to do with your band saw.
I don't do much shaping on the band saw, so a very aggressive wider blade works just fine for me i.e., cuts through Briar like butter and lasts for ever.
If you want to do more shaping on the band saw then you want a less aggressive and thinner blade that will give you more control and better cornering.
On the other hand I can cut out any shape I need to with my set up. I just have to take more cuts with wider curves.
A 3-4 tph hook tooth blade will take a more aggressive cut, but it will also clear saw dust from the gullets faster and better. This means that you don't have to push as hard so you have more control and the blade stays cooler.
If you are trying to cut a thick piece of Briar with a fine toothed blade you will need to go very slow because the blade cuts a lot less aggressively and the saw dust does not clear from the gullets of the blade as quickly. The result is that if you are not careful you end up pushing too hard, the blade heats up and has more of a tendency to wander and to break. The up side is that you get a smoother cut and can do sharper corners.
It's all a matter of finding the right blade to give you the performance that you are looking for.
Todd
I will try a 10 tpi, 3/16 and see what that does. But I tend to agree with you, I don't shape all that much on the saw either.
Rad
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