Greek briar, gold plated band.
Airway:3.75mm 9/64 -ish
Stem material: Delrin/Ebonite
Overall length: 15cm 5 7/8"
Stummel: 7.5x5cm 2 15/16x1 15/16"
Chamber: 2x4cm 3/4x1 9/16"
Weight: 1.5oz 42gm
![Image](http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/8/9/7/9/8/1/webimg/649776104_o.jpg)
![Image](http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/8/9/7/9/8/1/webimg/649776129_o.jpg)
![Image](http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/8/9/7/9/8/1/webimg/649776189_o.jpg)
![Image](http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/8/9/7/9/8/1/webimg/649776221_o.jpg)
David.
I'm sorry my lingo is not up to speed. Could you describe where it's needing more taper, radius and cant? I'm working on my billiards and if I can better see where you're talking about it would really help me.ToddJohnson wrote:A very nice pipe, and while I would not quibble with calling it a "billiard," I think it could benefit from more taper (as it moves upward), a larger radius at the front of the bowl, and a couple of degrees of forward cant on the top if you're shooting for a more "archetypal" billiard.
TJ
Bullshit.DMI wrote:Taper on stem noted.
Chamber drilling, I have got into the habit of leaving a slot in the bottom of the chamber that leads to the draught hole it is not as pronounced on this one because of the cant. I have had mixed reactions to the idea but generally positive, most feel that it improves the even burning of the baccy. I'll post a pic of the next one I do.
"More taper": bottom of bowl moving toward top of bowl.AlfaDog wrote:I'm sorry my lingo is not up to speed. Could you describe where it's needing more taper, radius and cant? I'm working on my billiards and if I can better see where you're talking about it would really help me.ToddJohnson wrote:A very nice pipe, and while I would not quibble with calling it a "billiard," I think it could benefit from more taper (as it moves upward), a larger radius at the front of the bowl, and a couple of degrees of forward cant on the top if you're shooting for a more "archetypal" billiard.
TJ
How do you go about fixing it with a dremel? Do you just cut in a bit with a fluted cutter then sand things back even?ToddJohnson wrote: P.P.S. The tobacco chamber is drilled about 5mm too shallow, but you can fix this with a dremel.
Puzzled, the idea of continuing the airway as a channel to the centre of the bowl or that it makes a difference. If it's a waste of time then I need to rethink my drilling.ToddJohnson wrote:Bullshit.DMI wrote:Taper on stem noted.
Chamber drilling, I have got into the habit of leaving a slot in the bottom of the chamber that leads to the draught hole it is not as pronounced on this one because of the cant. I have had mixed reactions to the idea but generally positive, most feel that it improves the even burning of the baccy. I'll post a pic of the next one I do.
TJ
ToddJohnson wrote:Bullshit.DMI wrote:Taper on stem noted.
Chamber drilling, I have got into the habit of leaving a slot in the bottom of the chamber that leads to the draught hole it is not as pronounced on this one because of the cant. I have had mixed reactions to the idea but generally positive, most feel that it improves the even burning of the baccy. I'll post a pic of the next one I do.
TJ
Just use the dremel to profile the bowl to your preference.The Smoking Yeti wrote:How do you go about fixing it with a dremel? Do you just cut in a bit with a fluted cutter then sand things back even?ToddJohnson wrote: P.P.S. The tobacco chamber is drilled about 5mm too shallow, but you can fix this with a dremel.
I've tried fixing this with my Pohlmann drill bit when I free-hand drill, but if I didn't go deep enough with my 1/2" tapered pilot hole, it's no dice.