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Tell me moreThe Smoking Yeti wrote: the whole pipe is underexposed.
Switch/set the camera to spot mode light metering (if there are several, choose the smallest one).Alden wrote:Tell me moreThe Smoking Yeti wrote: the whole pipe is underexposed.
Or better yet, set it to manual exposure on the tripod. Set the aperture(F-stop) to as large a number as you can(somewhere between F8 and F16 works great) set your ISO to as low a number as you can (varies depending on the camera's sensor).LatakiaLover wrote:Switch/set the camera to spot mode light metering (if there are several, choose the smallest one).Alden wrote:Tell me moreThe Smoking Yeti wrote: the whole pipe is underexposed.
Or, you could switch/set the camera to spot mode light metering (if there are several, choose the smallest one).The Smoking Yeti wrote:
...set it to manual exposure on the tripod. Set the aperture(F-stop) to as large a number as you can(somewhere between F8 and F16 works great) set your ISO to as low a number as you can (varies depending on the camera's sensor).
After that, adjust the exposure so the background is very bright- maybe take a couple test shots. You want the pipe to be well lit so you can see all the details of it- no super darks, this becomes tricky on black sandblasts- you want to make the pipe look grey, not black, then you can add in some shadows/contrast if you like. As far as White Balance, you need to play with this. It depends on the bulbs you're using.
The absolute best bulbs are 1600lumen Fluorescent Daylight(5000k) bulbs. You can get these bulbs at Lowes or Home Depot- Target has a fuckin' shitty light bulb selection, don't waste your time there. If you're shooting with aforementioned bulbs, you can manually set your color temperature to 5000k(the closest pre-set is Daylight).
What you're trying to do with white balance, is remove the tint from the image, you want that background to look plain ol' white. Not slightly blue. Not slightly orange. WHITE. It'll ensure color accuracy throughout your image.
Once all of these are dialed in, manually focus on the front and center portion of the pipe in the frame(almost always the bowl itself) and fire away.
Also helpful- if your images are shaky even though you're using a tripod, try setting a delay shutter timer for two or ten seconds.
If you don't understand some of the terms mentioned, google it. Or better yet, read your camera manual. If you can follow these steps you'll be shooting half-decent if not good product shots.
Cheers!
Yeti
Yeti,The Smoking Yeti wrote:
Or better yet, set it to manual exposure on the tripod. Set the aperture(F-stop) to as large a number as you can(somewhere between F8 and F16 works great) set your ISO to as low a number as you can (varies depending on the camera's sensor).
After that, adjust the exposure so the background is very bright- maybe take a couple test shots. You want the pipe to be well lit so you can see all the details of it- no super darks, this becomes tricky on black sandblasts- you want to make the pipe look grey, not black, then you can add in some shadows/contrast if you like. As far as White Balance, you need to play with this. It depends on the bulbs you're using.
The absolute best bulbs are 1600lumen Fluorescent Daylight(5000k) bulbs. You can get these bulbs at Lowes or Home Depot- Target has a fuckin' shitty light bulb selection, don't waste your time there. If you're shooting with aforementioned bulbs, you can manually set your color temperature to 5000k(the closest pre-set is Daylight).
What you're trying to do with white balance, is remove the tint from the image, you want that background to look plain ol' white. Not slightly blue. Not slightly orange. WHITE. It'll ensure color accuracy throughout your image.
Once all of these are dialed in, manually focus on the front and center portion of the pipe in the frame(almost always the bowl itself) and fire away.
Also helpful- if your images are shaky even though you're using a tripod, try setting a delay shutter timer for two or ten seconds.
If you don't understand some of the terms mentioned, google it. Or better yet, read your camera manual. If you can follow these steps you'll be shooting half-decent if not good product shots.
Cheers!
Yeti
Which works pretty well until you're photographing a black sandblast. Honestly, it's best to learn how to actually use a camera- yeah, the technology can help you out, but if you take a little extra time to learn what's actually going on within the camera, it's much more useful. Kinda like teaching a hillbilly to fish.LatakiaLover wrote: Or, you could switch/set the camera to spot mode light metering (if there are several, choose the smallest one).
Isn't that your major?The Smoking Yeti wrote:Maybe I'm just trying to justify all the time I've poured into learning photography?
No, I'm not getting a major anymore.UberHuberMan wrote:Isn't that your major?The Smoking Yeti wrote:Maybe I'm just trying to justify all the time I've poured into learning photography?
I hope you're at least getting a sergeant.The Smoking Yeti wrote:No, I'm not getting a major anymore.UberHuberMan wrote:Isn't that your major?The Smoking Yeti wrote:Maybe I'm just trying to justify all the time I've poured into learning photography?
The Smoking Yeti wrote:Which works pretty well until you're photographing a black sandblast. Honestly, it's best to learn how to actually use a camera- yeah, the technology can help you out, but if you take a little extra time to learn what's actually going on within the camera, it's much more useful. Kinda like teaching a hillbilly to fish.LatakiaLover wrote: Or, you could switch/set the camera to spot mode light metering (if there are several, choose the smallest one).
Maybe I'm just trying to justify all the time I've poured into learning photography?
Cheers!
Yeti
Shooting inside by a nice window can work well. Make sure the light is falling directly on the pipe.mcgregorpipes wrote:The Smoking Yeti wrote:Which works pretty well until you're photographing a black sandblast. Honestly, it's best to learn how to actually use a camera- yeah, the technology can help you out, but if you take a little extra time to learn what's actually going on within the camera, it's much more useful. Kinda like teaching a hillbilly to fish.LatakiaLover wrote: Or, you could switch/set the camera to spot mode light metering (if there are several, choose the smallest one).
Maybe I'm just trying to justify all the time I've poured into learning photography?
Cheers!
Yeti
looking at your site the photography is fantastic i would say it was time well invested
for lack of a space to take photos indoors with a light box i've been taking them outside, only downside is seems hard to control contrasting shadows when the sun is at a low angle.. and its -35C