staining question
staining question
All the talk in my other post about finishing (which is TOO BIG to post a new question on) is about water based and alcohol based stains. Did I miss something about oil based stains? Are they OK to use or do they damage the wood somehow?
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Ben
http://www.scofield.cc/pipes (under construction)
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Ben
http://www.scofield.cc/pipes (under construction)
I don't know the real answer to your question, but I will take a stab at it. I believe there are two reasons that oil based stains are not generally used to color briar used for smoking pipes.
One
There may be a chance for the oil based stains to seal the pores of the briar. Even though the oil based stains are relatively thin, I am not sure if the oil evaporates like the alcohol and water do in the other varieties of stains. This leads me to reason number
Two
An oil based stain may impart a flavor to the briar. Water and alcohol based stains do not as a general rule, as the water and alcohol evaporate and leave the pigment.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but from all I have heard, water and alcohol stains are the way to go with pipes.
One
There may be a chance for the oil based stains to seal the pores of the briar. Even though the oil based stains are relatively thin, I am not sure if the oil evaporates like the alcohol and water do in the other varieties of stains. This leads me to reason number
Two
An oil based stain may impart a flavor to the briar. Water and alcohol based stains do not as a general rule, as the water and alcohol evaporate and leave the pigment.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but from all I have heard, water and alcohol stains are the way to go with pipes.
The toxic elements would most likely be in the pigments being used. Many use ingredients such as magnesium, copper, and cadmium and barium etc. Or at least that is the case with artist paints. I would assume the same is true with household stains as well. But how truely toxic they would be on the outside of a pipe I am not sure.
Marks,
You are right, oil based stains seal the wood. They are essentialy a paint. The stores call them stains simply because they are transparent. There is a difference between a paint and a stain (or dye).
Paints have a vehicle such as latex or oil that is impregnated with a coloring agent or pigment. This vehicle never evaporates it simply hardens into a tough film that does not truely become part of the wood surface but sticks to it.
With a dye. The pigment is bonded with the vehicle (alcohol) only until it has evaporated. What is left is pigment that has actually become part of the wood surface. That is why these analine dyes dry so matte and opaque and you need to buff and wax them to make them shine. There is no vehicle such as an oil or plastic left to make them shiny.
Marks,
You are right, oil based stains seal the wood. They are essentialy a paint. The stores call them stains simply because they are transparent. There is a difference between a paint and a stain (or dye).
Paints have a vehicle such as latex or oil that is impregnated with a coloring agent or pigment. This vehicle never evaporates it simply hardens into a tough film that does not truely become part of the wood surface but sticks to it.
With a dye. The pigment is bonded with the vehicle (alcohol) only until it has evaporated. What is left is pigment that has actually become part of the wood surface. That is why these analine dyes dry so matte and opaque and you need to buff and wax them to make them shine. There is no vehicle such as an oil or plastic left to make them shiny.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
You know Ben, that has always been a question I have had as well. I hear more collectors talk about it than carvers.
My father had a Dr. Grabow that was finished with some type of laquer and it smoked terrible! I mean really bad. Hot, wet, finish started to peal off etc. I think it is experiences like that, that has made people so wary of doing anything that would seal the wood in any way. I would also imagine that not sealing the wood would allow the pipe to dry much more efficiently as the walls would still be porous on either side. Kinda like trying to pour oil from of a can with two openings compared to one.
In the end I am really not sure. I'm a paint guy not a wood man
My father had a Dr. Grabow that was finished with some type of laquer and it smoked terrible! I mean really bad. Hot, wet, finish started to peal off etc. I think it is experiences like that, that has made people so wary of doing anything that would seal the wood in any way. I would also imagine that not sealing the wood would allow the pipe to dry much more efficiently as the walls would still be porous on either side. Kinda like trying to pour oil from of a can with two openings compared to one.
In the end I am really not sure. I'm a paint guy not a wood man
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
John, you said in another post that you use leather dye's for your pipes. A leather worker's shop is the only local place I can get any dye's that I've heard about as of yet. If you don't mind my asking, are there certain colors that look differently when applied to wood? In other words can you give me any hints about what to get or not to get in regards to the colors cause they don't turn out the way one would think?
I can do better than hint
Here is where I get them: http://www.aleathersource.com/Dyes.htm
These are the colors I use:
USMC Black is a very nice black that is neither too red nor too blue.
Light Brown
Med. Brown
Dark Brown
Maroon
Buckskin
I have found that there is very little if any color shift with these. They do dry quite matte and opaque and that scared me at first. But they buff and shine to a nice finish. The nice thing about these is they are pre mixed and not a powder which guarantees consistency in the colors you are using. These things have a LOT of pigment. A little bit goes a very long way.
The pipe in my avatar is finished in Medium Brown.
Here is where I get them: http://www.aleathersource.com/Dyes.htm
These are the colors I use:
USMC Black is a very nice black that is neither too red nor too blue.
Light Brown
Med. Brown
Dark Brown
Maroon
Buckskin
I have found that there is very little if any color shift with these. They do dry quite matte and opaque and that scared me at first. But they buff and shine to a nice finish. The nice thing about these is they are pre mixed and not a powder which guarantees consistency in the colors you are using. These things have a LOT of pigment. A little bit goes a very long way.
The pipe in my avatar is finished in Medium Brown.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
I have not used the Pimo dyes but the Fieblings are, to my knowledge, an analine dye use for leather products. When you flame them all you are doing is burning away the alcohol so that they dry quicker.
Tim West is best known for doing this and I believe he uses the Feibling dyes. Or at least, the pics I have seen show him using an applicator exactly like those supplied with my Fieblings
Tim West is best known for doing this and I believe he uses the Feibling dyes. Or at least, the pics I have seen show him using an applicator exactly like those supplied with my Fieblings
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
It is in the description above the price list
http://www.aleathersource.com/Dyes.htm
Permanent, alcohol-based leather dyes that dry uniformly. Colors can be mixed to create an unlimited spectrum of colors. Available in 4oz. and 32oz. bottles.
http://www.aleathersource.com/Dyes.htm
Permanent, alcohol-based leather dyes that dry uniformly. Colors can be mixed to create an unlimited spectrum of colors. Available in 4oz. and 32oz. bottles.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
I would have to see it to really be able to tell. I could certainly tell what colors were used to mix the dye but without knowing the brand of stain they are using it would hard to tell you what exactly to use.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com