FWIW:
a) Thanks for sourcing on delrin for tenons and such. (I've been looking for a good source!)
b) I am assuming (possibly incorrectly) that this thread is involving the use of delrin for tenons in briar or other wood pipes, correct? (I'd never heard of epoxying delrin tenons in before...then again, 99 percent of what I've done has been clay bowls and/or meerschaum, so I've not had that much experience *working* with wood. (I do eventually want to start messing about with wood pipes, possibly briar, possibly some other hardwood--anyone have recommendations for starter woods for someone just getting into wood pipemaking who happens to own a mess of Dremel bits and a good woodcarving set? :3)
I *do* have experience with the delrin fittings used in meerschaum pipe stems (which are essentially 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 threaded delrin nipples with one end smoothed which the pipestem fits into) and actually own thread taps and dies for my own pipeworking; should I ever start into making my own mouthpieces, this is going to come in very useful :3
Info on delrin
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windigofer
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Ah, understood...(That would fit with what I was thinking as far as stems for briar pipes).
As I've noted, I've not generally worked with briar, and stems for briar and for clay/meer pipes *do* differ; meers, for example, actually have *two* bits of delrin--one which screws into the stem (as noted by you), and a *separate* delrin fitting that screws into the shank. (This is a holdover from the days when bone screws were commonly used for meer pipes.)
I would think (especially if one got some 5/16" diameter Delrin rods and made one's own threaded 5/16"-18 pushfitting adapters for a meer or a clay pipe) that the process (on the stem end) would be pretty much the same from there--the main difference with a meer or clay being that you must basically fit a threaded "mortise adapter" in (and thread the drilled hole), the stem will still have its own tenon etc.
Just noting how it tends to work from someone whose usual material *isn't* briar :3
As I've noted, I've not generally worked with briar, and stems for briar and for clay/meer pipes *do* differ; meers, for example, actually have *two* bits of delrin--one which screws into the stem (as noted by you), and a *separate* delrin fitting that screws into the shank. (This is a holdover from the days when bone screws were commonly used for meer pipes.)
I would think (especially if one got some 5/16" diameter Delrin rods and made one's own threaded 5/16"-18 pushfitting adapters for a meer or a clay pipe) that the process (on the stem end) would be pretty much the same from there--the main difference with a meer or clay being that you must basically fit a threaded "mortise adapter" in (and thread the drilled hole), the stem will still have its own tenon etc.
Just noting how it tends to work from someone whose usual material *isn't* briar :3
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yellowking
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
I just did my first delrin tenon/mortise.
In both cases, I drilled a hole, epoxied the delrin into place, and then worked the material as normal.
I used delrin to bypass inlay material and glue joints (and because it sounded like a challenge). When glueing the delrin, I didn't coat the end, just the sides. I can't guarantee no glue was scraped by the end during insertion, but it should be minimal.
In both cases, I drilled a hole, epoxied the delrin into place, and then worked the material as normal.
I used delrin to bypass inlay material and glue joints (and because it sounded like a challenge). When glueing the delrin, I didn't coat the end, just the sides. I can't guarantee no glue was scraped by the end during insertion, but it should be minimal.