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Do you have any pictures of this process?

My stamp was "Scofield Pipes" and it works great! I paid $125

bscofield wrote:My stamp was "Scofield Pipes" and it works great! I paid $125

Ben, BTW, did you show us the final outcome of that stamp we discussed so widely?

jeff wrote:

RadDavis wrote: And A&M's stamps work great. The only problem is keeping the stampings in a straight line.

That's why I had mine made in a circle. Problem solved.

I was talking with Paul about an oval stamp, but he told me it would be too large. He suggested the content in two different stamps, which I am reluctant to mess with. Is there a reason mine would be too large and Jeff's circular stamp is okay? Mine doesn't even have any artwork - just text.

:dunno:

ScoJo wrote:

jeff wrote:

RadDavis wrote: And A&M's stamps work great. The only problem is keeping the stampings in a straight line.

That's why I had mine made in a circle. Problem solved.

I was talking with Paul about an oval stamp, but he told me it would be too large. He suggested the content in two different stamps, which I am reluctant to mess with. Is there a reason mine would be too large and Jeff's circular stamp is okay? Mine doesn't even have any artwork - just text.

:dunno:

Too large?! When you were talking to him did you use the word "pipe" or "warclub" to describe what you'd be stamping? (That might have affected his advice.)



Tyler

ROFL!!

Okay, that was REALLY funny.



I'll have you know my clubs are not nearly as large as they used to be!

[/quote]

I was talking with Paul about an oval stamp, but he told me it would be too large. He suggested the content in two different stamps, which I am reluctant to mess with. Is there a reason mine would be too large and Jeff's circular stamp is okay? Mine doesn't even have any artwork - just text.

:dunno:[/quote]

Mark Tinsky's "American" is in an oval, and he got it from Paul. I don't know why your's would be too large.

Maybe too much text?

Rad

Okay, for those of you who got stamps from Paul, how did you send him what you wanted? In a jpeg?

No way man, as a TIFF. Much better resolution. JPEG is too lossy.

A JPEG will be fine, as long as you don't send them that 60 x 80 pixel version from the navigation bar of your website.

ScoJo wrote:Okay, for those of you who got stamps from Paul, how did you send him what you wanted? In a jpeg?

I just told him I wanted block letters and that it was for stamping pipes.

Mine isn't very fancy.

Rad

I originally got a very nice stamp from Paul at A&M. It was a "script" font. Paul did a fantastic job and he was the greatest person you could ever want to deal with--no bull. Buy from him if you want a stamp. But do you know what? I got tired of fiddling with the positioning of the shank before taking that plunge with the drill press to stamp the pipe. My nerves can't take that kind of suspense, especially with a long last name like "Rocheleau." You have to shape the shank to accomodate the stamp so it impresses evenly in depth on each letter, and I hate making compromises in shaping.

Now I keep it simple: I use individual 1/16" letter and number stamps, and press each one by hand. There are no nasty surprises 8O

Cheers,
John

I've never used a drill press for stamping.

I stamp my pipes across (perpendicular to) the back/bottom of the shank, so using a press would be impossible anyway. I just roll the stamp across the shank by hand while rocking it back and forth to get an even imprint. My stamps are flat, so this works well for my stamp location.

If you're stamping on the side of the shank, parallel to the direction of the shank, Paul can make your stamp with a convex curve, so you can stamp on any surface without having to make a perfectly flat area for the stamp.

Rad

I used the drill press because my name is so long. To stamp by hand over that length is imossible, and to wrap it around perpendicular to the shank (so I could do it by hand) would be too much of a wrap for my liking. The problem was never having a flat surface for the height of the stamp, but to have an even surface over the length to ensure the letters would impress uniformly, and then to align the shank with the stamp while pressing. It was just too much trouble for what I felt it was worth. Life is simpler now : ) And simple is good.

John

All great info guys... I'm still trying to get a pipe to the point where I'm not ashamed to identify it as mine! Supposing I eventually do want to stamp one, at what point in the process do you do it? After all the shape tweaking and most of the sanding, but before staining/finishing, or when the pipe is completely finished?

I stamp mine after the pipe is completely finished, and just before I take photos.

Does anyone stain their stamp to get it to stand out? Stain it black, and then sand off so that just the lettering is black?

bscofield wrote:Does anyone stain their stamp to get it to stand out? Stain it black, and then sand off so that just the lettering is black?

The design and workmanship should be what stands out. That's what you spend you time creating, and that's what the customer buys. The signiture or stamp should be descreet. You want people to know you created the pipe, but it's best to do so in a way that does not detract at all from the visual effect of the design and finish. So it is best in my opinion to keep the stamping simple and out of sight, but readable.

Focus on artistry, engineering, and finish, then stamp or engrave your name in an inconspicuous place, to let folks know who made this wonderful pipe : ) That's how I see it.

John

I wouldn't disagree with you on any of that... If I could re-phrase the question it would have more to do with fancy-fying a stamp and not fancy-fying the pipe, know what I mean?