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Solomon_pipes wrote:Its effectively like putting the horns of two trumpets together. there is no interference because the only portions that touch are the outer edges. That is an exaggeration obviously, but maybe it explains the process better. Like I said, it works for me, YMMV.

I can't say I haven't tried that approach, but I've abandoned it because if the briar moves, which it usually will, you're more likely to have a gap. Also, the friction will wear more quickly on the edges of stem and shank face, which will not look as pretty later on. When the surface area extends from the edge to the tenon/mortise, you're going to at least wear down the edges evenly with the rest of the surface and still keep a tight fit.


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[/quote]I can't say I haven't tried that approach, but I've abandoned it because if the briar moves, which it usually will, you're more likely to have a gap. Also, the friction will wear more quickly on the edges of stem and shank face, which will not look as pretty later on. When the surface area extends from the edge to the tenon/mortise, you're going to at least wear down the edges evenly with the rest of the surface and still keep a tight fit.


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If ebonite on briar was an abrasive situation, then you wouldn't have to worry about the edge of the stem wearing down. The tenon/mortise friction would cause the stem to fall out long before the stem edge was worn down. But I suspect this is like A lot of other pipe science related discussions. A lot of thought goes into a pipe, which, in the end, is just a chunk of vegetation with a few holes that we use to burn another plant in. That scientifically makes no sense to begin with.

There are ways to face stems and shanks after the fact, but it is difficult, time consuming, and takes a lot of practice. Not recommended.

Facing is not the problem I was referring to. I meant making the stem diameter match that of the shank--when the mortise is not centered in the shank-- as is the case with a lot of factory pipes. Obviously you can't turn the stem to a specific diameter and expect it match the shank diameter all the way around, and must do a lot hand sanding,filing,tongue biting, etc,hoping you don't mar the shank. I can do it,just takes forever (it seems) .Would really love to learn a quicker,easier way--if it exists.

Oh yeah I know it works, I tried it once and all was fine until I took a little too much off one side to remove a flaw and once that gap was there I never got rid of it

That method gives you more problems than solutions, I reckon.

I cut all of my stems on a woodlathe and don't have a problem at all with getting a flush fit with no light gap. I also cheat and use the Easy Wood Tool Easy Rougher with a square head on it....sure makes things easier. Slow down, check often and have some pin gages so you can chuch something up after it's shaped if you need to. Pin gages work wonders because I have a guide to square, so to speak, and know the angle I need to hold my turning tool at.