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I finally replaced my tapered bit with two 5/32 bits from VT (I lost one this summer, broke it in an acrylic stem). Yesterday we broke another one in a different piece of acrylic.

Has anyone else had problems with acrylic locking up on tapered bits?

Thanks for feedback.


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First link on Google search " drilling acrylic". It's a good read. There are many more too.

RobEsArt wrote:I finally replaced my tapered bit with two 5/32 bits from VT (I lost one this summer, broke it in an acrylic stem). Yesterday we broke another one in a different piece of acrylic.

Has anyone else had problems with acrylic locking up on tapered bits?

There are several posts at the very bottom of page 1 and the top of page 2 that cover your problem:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8354&hilit=acrylic

Thank you - Premal and George.

We (Jake, one of my theatre students) discussed using the 5/32 straight bit before finishing with the tapered. We decided to skip... that and no lube were probably the two largest contributing factors to the locking/freezing/fucking problem. We made his stem yesterday, and used lube for cutting - and that made a huge difference. Today, I am going to pre fab some stem blanks while Jake is shaping his first billiard on the wheel. I am going to read and re-read all the information you gentlemen have shared and try to adjust my process accordingly.

We did notice that the swarf, even while using lube for cutting, was powdery (rather than chip or ribbon like) as the tapered end entered the 1/16th hole from the button end. Any thoughts?

Thank you again,
RobE

RobEsArt wrote:Thank you - Premal and George.

We (Jake, one of my theatre students) discussed using the 5/32 straight bit before finishing with the tapered. We decided to skip... that and no lube were probably the two largest contributing factors to the locking/freezing/fucking problem. We made his stem yesterday, and used lube for cutting - and that made a huge difference. Today, I am going to pre fab some stem blanks while Jake is shaping his first billiard on the wheel. I am going to read and re-read all the information you gentlemen have shared and try to adjust my process accordingly.

We did notice that the swarf, even while using lube for cutting, was powdery (rather than chip or ribbon like) as the tapered end entered the 1/16th hole from the button end. Any thoughts?

Thank you again,
RobE

If you are getting powder, it is most likely a dull bit and/or too fast speed.

I just drilled an acrylic rod and used a regular bit to drill the hole then finished with the tapered bit. I did get just a little powder with the tapered bit. I was drilling at 1000 rpm with beeswax for lube. I drilled only about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch at a time between clearing chips and re-applying lube to the bit. It drilled nicely with this method. I think lower speed may be better.

FWIW, I've discovered there is quite a dramatic variation in taper bit sharpness from specimen to specimen in the same brand (Fuller, in this case). I have a few that arrived so sharp you'd cut yourself just checking the edge if you weren't careful, and others that were damn near like a butterknife in comparison. All new.

The difference in how well they cut is equally dramatic, of course.

Unfortunately there's no way to cherry pick them when buying over the Net, and few hardware stores carry taper bits long enough to be of use for stems.

This thread is cursed! An hour after reading it I snapped my 3/8" long flute tapered bit from fuller which I'd been using for months!

Now I need a new one, and they're still nowhere to be found in Europe The only place I've found that sells them is Jamestown Distributors and they charge 3x the shipping price for "handling fees"!

Premal,
yesterday I drilled some acrylic tortoise shell rod. I entered both ends with a 1/16th bit first. Began the tenon end with a long 1/8th, then the 5/32nd straight, finishing with the 5/32nd tapered, all with lube. I can't say that the swarf was powdery, but it stayed in the flutes until I removed by hand. The draft hole finished out much cleaner than previous attempts also, still not perfect, but a hole lot better .

George,
Do you have an extra 5/32nd tapered bit that is extremely sharp, that you would be willing to sell? The two I just bought, I got from VF, and I have no basis of comparison.

Everyone... What are optimal drilling speeds for pecking and finishing in acrylic? I've been trying various drilling speeds, and currently been using the slowest speeds available on the Atlas.
Also, I've read, here and there, that plastics require a drill tip angle between 60 & 90degs. Does anyone here use that prescription or do you use a standard tip/ standard bit?


Massis,
I'm sorry
A 3/8 inch tapered? That's quite large. What were you drilling?

typo should've been 1/8" which is what I normally use for airways.
FUL-20200125 TAPER POINT DRILL 1/8" LONG LENGTH to be precise

RobEsArt wrote:Premal,
yesterday I drilled some acrylic tortoise shell rod. I entered both ends with a 1/16th bit first. Began the tenon end with a long 1/8th, then the 5/32nd straight, finishing with the 5/32nd tapered, all with lube. I can't say that the swarf was powdery, but it stayed in the flutes until I removed by hand. The draft hole finished out much cleaner than previous attempts also, still not perfect, but a hole lot better .

George,
Do you have an extra 5/32nd tapered bit that is extremely sharp, that you would be willing to sell? The two I just bought, I got from VF, and I have no basis of comparison.

Everyone... What are optimal drilling speeds for pecking and finishing in acrylic? I've been trying various drilling speeds, and currently been using the slowest speeds available on the Atlas.
Also, I've read, here and there, that plastics require a drill tip angle between 60 & 90degs. Does anyone here use that prescription or do you use a standard tip/ standard bit?


Massis,
I'm sorry
A 3/8 inch tapered? That's quite large. What were you drilling?

Hi Rob,

I think you can skip the 1/16 th and 1/8th on the airway end and just start with your 5/32 and then finish with the tapered. That's what I did, but with 9/64 instead of 5/32. Make sure to do start with a centering bit first. Either soapy water or beeswax will work for lube, or you could possibly use something else, and just feed it in by hand a little at a time and clear chips fast. I had very good results this way. The problem with the tapered bits is that the sharpness may vary a little from bit to bit, and if your tailstock is slightly off either by angle or offset, it may cause an issue. Use the long ones only when you have to. Most of the time, I can use the short ones. (they are cheaper too) The only other thing I can think of that may work better is make a tapered spoon bit out of drill rod. I think 300 to 600 rpm would be ideal, but I am too used to drilling at 1000 on the 9x20 and make the adjustment to make it work.

You can get the tapered bits for fairly low prices at mcmaster carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#taper-point-drill-bits/=v5n85d

RobEsArt wrote:
George,
Do you have an extra 5/32nd tapered bit that is extremely sharp, that you would be willing to sell?

No, sorry. I keep 4 lengths of each of 4 sizes and want to keep the set full.

Massis wrote:This thread is cursed! An hour after reading it I snapped my 3/8" long flute tapered bit from fuller which I'd been using for months!

Now I need a new one, and they're still nowhere to be found in Europe The only place I've found that sells them is Jamestown Distributors and they charge 3x the shipping price for "handling fees"!

www.vermontfreehand.com will have the best and cheapest shipping options, but we only have the 5/32" Fuller brand taper bits

as my 1/8" was just a tad too thin, that would be awesome. Finances are tight right now, but you'll be receiving an order from me in a few weeks!

George - it was a long shot, I gave it a try, thanks for what you did provide.

Premal - Thank you for your assistance, I appreciate it.
I am curious, is it recommended to use the tapered bit all the way through the rod, and just out the button end? Or do we still want a short length of 1/16th for funneling?

I personally never use the tapered bit from the button end. I use it from the tenon end to about 1/4" from going all the way through, and then connect from the other side with a 1mm bit (which is something like 1/25th :p ) after which I cut the slot with the dremel cutter and funnel it with the 1mm, 1.5mm or sometimes a 2mm bit.

No need to look any further,Gary Fuller makes the best drill bits money can
Buy.Quality is only a question of money.There is a reason why he is the best.
Yes this is a shameless plug

RobEsArt wrote:George - it was a long shot, I gave it a try, thanks for what you did provide.

Premal - Thank you for your assistance, I appreciate it.
I am curious, is it recommended to use the tapered bit all the way through the rod, and just out the button end? Or do we still want a short length of 1/16th for funneling?

Still drill with a small bit on the slot end. 3/64" is ideal for me.