Number 12 a commission heading to Texas

[WillAndersonpipes]

Here is number 12 this is a commission that I did for a guy in Texas. It's got a little more going on than I usually do with the spalted maple and Cumberland together but I like the way it turned out. What do yall think?



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[LatakiaLover]

Nice.

Only a few things jump out at me, all minor:

--- there is a bit of sanding "roll over" toward the end of the fancywood extension in the side view, but it trumpets when viewed from above

--- the area immediately behind the button still has some scratches/file marks (since this is a pet peeve, it gets one of these ---> )

--- the sides of the blade pinch inward as the button is approached

--- the "scoop" transition from barrel to blade is too gradual (soft lines like that are the primary distinguishing difference between top-level pipes and more beginner-y ones when viewed at arm's length)

--- it might just be gleam (so is actually OK), but the rim looks uneven in width around the chamber

--- overall, the stem blade is a smidge too thick, and (of course ) is a smidge under-bent


If Micah "Goatboy" Cryder checks in on this one, he'll probably have a suggestion or two concerning overall shape & balance (he likes scoop-y pipes and makes a lot of them).

Keep up the good work!

[WillAndersonpipes]

I think those marks in front of the button are from scraping the compound out of that groove with my fingernail and a paper towel I am hoping that re waxing it will fix that because the marks weren't there until after I scraped it out so I'm hoping it's just a smudged wax layer. The unevenness of the rim is also a gleam line from an odd angled light

So you think it needs a steeper scoop?


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[LatakiaLover]

So you think it needs a steeper scoop?

"It" being the stem. The "ski slope" portion of the stem---meaning where it drops away and then levels out---is too gradual. Needs more emphasis/drama/whatever you want to call it.

Maybe one of those guys around here who know how to draw on computer screens can illustrate what I'm trying to explain.

The reason it is cut too shallow/slack by most new carvers is because it's a pain in the ass to get exactly right AND slow going (lots of material to remove when shaping a saddle stem), so they talk themselves into thinking it looks right right prematurely just to be done with the damn thing.

[WillAndersonpipes]

Oh ok so it needs to be thinner earlier on in the stem? I guess for a stem like this it needs to just drop and go as this as you can and still have a taper


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[mightysmurf8201]

Study some examples of saddle stems from some of the high grade guys to get a good understanding of what George is saying. Some will be very sharp, others much less so as personal style dictates, but they are all for the most part deliberate in their transitions.

[WillAndersonpipes]

I have been studying saddle bits the last couple of days and have found plenty of examples of what you are talking about with regards of making the saddle more deliberate. I have also found some that are less deliberate like the one in the picture. I'm not trying to say what I did is the right way or anything I'm just curious of what makes a less deliberate saddle work, when is it appropriate to do something like in this picture and when is it appropriate to have a very defined saddle?

[sandahlpipe]

It's all about the radius. Even with this example, there's still a clear radius from the saddle to the flat part and the flat part is a taper. You can vary the radius for a different aesthetic, but you should see two distinct parts. The radius and the flat part. On yours, the radius and flat part are merged.

Here's some advice for starting out. Make a super sharp saddle, just to see what it looks like. Then gradually add a radius on subsequent stems and see how you like it. The go for whatever looks right to you. It's one of those things where no one can say the radius should have X diameter. But a trained eye knows when it doesn't work.

[WillAndersonpipes]

I have been told to try and keep a concave taper throughout the stem to give it a flowing look and not to just go from saddle to a straight taper. I would think that making the blade and saddle visibly distinct would interrupt the curve, but having a saddle that transitions into the blade with a continuous curve that becomes less and less steep, like a french curve, would look better, right?

Now I am not saying that I executed that correctly, but thats what I was going for. I am thinking the reason the stem on the tsuge pipe works is because it is shorter and to look right it needs to be stout, and having a more gradual saddle accomplishes that. with my pipe the stem is much longer, yet I left almost the same amount of material right after the saddle so it has a stout apperance on what should have been a thin flowing stem, Right? It seems like saddle stems seem to have a similar overall amount of material, but that material is just used in different areas. so short and long stems should have a similar mass; short stems are just compact and fatter while long stems are stretched out and thinner. This is what I have gathered from looking at some high grade stuff, but I am also just looking at pictures so please tell me if I am wrong.

[sandahlpipe]

I'm not sure it has as much to do with the length of the stem as it does with the angle of the taper on the blade. You want a discernible taper on the blade, but you also want the radius to start with a nearly 90 degree dropoff before it starts into the taper. So the smaller the shank diameter is, the less radius you'll want to achieve that drop off. Another thing that helps is to sketch out the stem's lines and see what looks good before you go to work shaping.

[WillAndersonpipes]

Oh ok I see. Yeah the drop off that I have isn't 90 degrees and it is definitely closer to 90 in the tsuge pipe I think I gotcha now. I was focusing more on where the blade meets the saddle as opposed to where the saddle begins, but I guess that initial 90 degree drop will affect both


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[clickklick]

For number 12 you are doing very well! As a collector, I would have no issues purchasing that! Keep it up!

[WillAndersonpipes]

Thanks a lot


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[The Smoking Yeti]

The top and bottom lines of the shank don't flow to their terminus quite right. They're good all the way up to the accent material, where they get a bit wonky. The top line especially subtly reverse-curves towards the end- that flare should be pronounced all the way to the end. Alternatively you could have the shank do a true taper inwards towards the stem.

From the top view down the shank delicately flares as it approaches the saddle area of the stem, at which point it reverses and tapers to the button- a stem like this should either taper from bowl to button, or flare, not both.
-Also I notice from the top view down that the shank line is asymmetric from one side to the other, take a bit more care when you cut this section to avoid this mistake.

The overall proportions of the pipe would be better if the collar of the stem/accent were half the length it is, as is the accent material is too bulky, and it distracts from the overall aesthetic of the piece. The disproportion of the accent throws of the transition to the stem's bend as well, but I think the stem should be bent a tetch more right at the bite zone, as is it's a little to stiff.

All that said, this is a excellent pipe #12, I don't mean to be brusk or blunt or a boob, just jotting down my first impressions. If you focus on some of these things, as well as just make more pipes, you'll do great!(you already have an amazing start)

Keep it up man!

Cheers!

Yeti

[WillAndersonpipes]

Thanks a lot for the critique yeti I appreciate it I definitely see what you are talking about this was my first attempt at a shank extension, besides bamboo, which doesn't really need shaping after attaching. I think I was afraid to take of too much material from the accent wood. I'll keep all of these tips in mind on my next one. Thanks a lot


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[Charl]

One other thing: the sliver of cumberland in front of the accent should be the same thickness as the bit left before the saddle starts.
Keep up the good work!