pipemakersforum.com

This is my first effort. The stem isn't shown in the photos. Will post pics tomorrow of final everything.
Air hole is a tad off. It started out as a 5" piece of briar to be a Canadian but I realized after I started that I didn't have a proper stem.
Anyway, first shot.

Looks like it's drilled right. If you're interested in feedback on the shape, let me know. Otherwise, I just want to point out that removing the stem from the stummel while finishing usually ends up in an odd stem/shank junction.

Thank you, yes I forgot to mention in my original post all comments welcome please!
I see that now. The stem/shank junction sucks. I'm working on it but at this point don't know quite what to do. Every time I try to remedy it all I do is move the shank down further.
I will post some pics. They are not pretty but mistakes are part of the process. Drilling was done freehand because I don't trust the junky Home Depot drill press I have.

Not to say it's easy, but it's much easier to get the shank/stem junction right when you first drill it than to fix it after it's already screwed up. I suggest using the forum search feature on the stem/shank junction and reading up on some of the advice that's already been offered as this is a common struggle early on.

As for the stummel you posted, it's...well...lumpy. It's hard to tell where the shank ends and the bowl begins. And on the bowl, it's hard to tell where the rim begins and the bowl walls end. The shank lines aren't straight, and the bowl isn't quite symmetrical. The bottom line of the shank should not drop as it goes under the bowl, but be straight all the way to the middle of the bottom of the bowl.

Having said that, you've gotta start somewhere, and I've seen much worse for starter pipes. At least I'm not seeing sanding scratches and the stain looks relatively even. Get yourself a good example billiard to study and try to copy all the lines exactly. It takes a lot of patience to get it right, but the result is so worth it.

He's gonna come down to the old Squatchatorium and get learned real good.

Sasquatch wrote:He's gonna come down to the old Squatchatorium and get learned real good.

Probably not a good idea, Shikano:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3jvoO_Y-Rk

LOL Thanks for the video Latakialover,

sandahlpipe, great feedback, thank you.

sandahlpipe wrote:Not to say it's easy, but it's much easier to get the shank/stem junction right when you first drill it than to fix it after it's already screwed up. I suggest using the forum search feature on the stem/shank junction and reading up on some of the advice that's already been offered as this is a common struggle early on.

As for the stummel you posted, it's...well...lumpy. It's hard to tell where the shank ends and the bowl begins. And on the bowl, it's hard to tell where the rim begins and the bowl walls end. The shank lines aren't straight, and the bowl isn't quite symmetrical. The bottom line of the shank should not drop as it goes under the bowl, but be straight all the way to the middle of the bottom of the bowl.

Having said that, you've gotta start somewhere, and I've seen much worse for starter pipes. At least I'm not seeing sanding scratches and the stain looks relatively even. Get yourself a good example billiard to study and try to copy all the lines exactly. It takes a lot of patience to get it right, but the result is so worth it.

Hi Jeremiah, thanks for the comments. I have a few questions based on your comments. I don't understand your comment about. "It's hard to tell where the shank ends and the bowl begins," and "It's hard to tell where the rim begins and the bowl walls ends." I'm re-working this and if you could clarify where you are referring to, it would really help me out.
Kindly
Chris

Maybe this will help. The rim of the bowl should be separate from the bowl. You don't want a radius from the bowl to the rim, just a crease all the way around. Even if you're making a domed rim, you still want a crease on the inside and outside of the rim. You should be able to identify the transition with the tip of a pencil. If you have a factory billiard, take a close look and see how clear the difference between rim and bowl walls is.

The same is true of the shank and bowl. You want the shank to be flat all the way to the bowl and then transition fairly sharply into the bowl. The top of the shank should have a very small radius (I use a 2 or 3mm round file) and the transition from the sides of the shank into the cheeks should be clear as well. Ask yourself, at what point should the shank stop and the bowl begin. Then put a clear difference between the bowl and the shank. Shank should be perfectly straight until that point and the bowl should start to curve after that point.

Jeremiah thank you.

Got what you mean now. I have my Dunhill Bruyere in hand as I read your comments.
I see exactly what you are referring to.
Many thanks

Did you say Sanitorium, Todd?