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Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 6:52 pm
by JMG
RHOX sandblasted olive wood rhodesian. 5 1/4" long, 2 1/4" wide, 1 1/4" tall. Not super happy with the stem as I didn't keep the lines straight from shank to bit. It has a very slight dip in it on the top. The button came out pretty good though so I guess that's a small victory to cling to. As always, critiques are welcomed and appreciated.

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Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 7:17 pm
by Billy Klubb
I don't have fine tuned eyes, but I think it looks amazing!

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:11 pm
by LatakiaLover
Nice. :D

The only tweak I can see would be a slight taper to the shank. Doesn't take much, but makes a lot of difference. It's another of those "perception of flow" optical cheats, like canting bowls forward a smidge. Truly dead-on cylindrical shanks should almost never be used for pipes except in special cases (like Tubos or similar, where geometric precision is the point).

I know a guy who collects olive pipes, btw. Says they smoke great.

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:23 pm
by JMG
LatakiaLover wrote:Nice. :D

The only tweak I can see would be a slight taper to the shank. Doesn't take much, but makes a lot of difference. It's another of those "perception of flow" optical cheats, like canting bowls forward a smidge. Truly dead-on cylindrical shanks should almost never be used for pipes except in special cases (like Tubos or similar, where geometric precision is the point).

I know a guy who collects olive pipes, btw. Says they smoke great.
Do a brother a solid and let said guy know that this one is for sell. :)

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:50 pm
by LatakiaLover
Here is his contact info:

http://www.spencerian.com/

He's a SUPER nice guy. Quite famous in his field, too. (has his own Wiki page)

Tell him that it's pipe related not work related, so that things will make sense to him quickly. Just lead with something like, "George told me that you like olive wood pipes". :D

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:25 pm
by JMG
LatakiaLover wrote:Here is his contact info:

http://www.spencerian.com/

He's a SUPER nice guy. Quite famous in his field, too. (has his own Wiki page)

Tell him that it's pipe related not work related, so that things will make sense to him quickly. Just lead with something like, "George told me that you like olive wood pipes". :D
Dude, don't lie. You found some random guy on the internet and trying to pull a fast one. I'm on to you.

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:08 am
by LatakiaLover
As good as that joke would be, :lol: know that I'm not that clever. :(

Mike has a huge collection of pipes---most of them non-briar---and has been at it a long time. Mike McNeil (of McClelland) even made a blend called "Master Penman" dedicated to him. He was the KC club prez for a while, too.

I just checked... make that two blends:

http://mcclellandtobacco.com/page-1860975

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:02 pm
by wdteipen
Pretty cool pipe and it looks well executed. The only thing I see is that it appears that the bowl dips below the line of the shank. It may just be a photo illusion. I would also go just a smidge thinner on the button. I know that's weird coming from me but I've been gradually thinning out the depth of my buttons too. I don't like super thin but there seems to be a sweet spot that looks more graceful. Yours is almost there but not quite.

Re: Olive wood rhodesian...

Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 5:09 pm
by JMG
wdteipen wrote:Pretty cool pipe and it looks well executed. The only thing I see is that it appears that the bowl dips below the line of the shank. It may just be a photo illusion. I would also go just a smidge thinner on the button. I know that's weird coming from me but I've been gradually thinning out the depth of my buttons too. I don't like super thin but there seems to be a sweet spot that looks more graceful. Yours is almost there but not quite.
Do you tend to keep the same depth for your buttons on most of your pipes or do you let the proportions of the pipe itself dictate it?