pipemakersforum.com

Hello guys!
So, I've been waiting a looong time to make this comissioned eskimo, which is my first eskimo by the way.
I've been busy with a bunch of other pipes before this one, so I've saved up some nerve for this shape.
I was terrified to start this pipe, but once i cut into the block, I discovered that I really liked shaping this.
The block doesn't look to bad either!

Have a great weekend, folks!
- Brian

Brian,
First let me say that I'm no expert on this shape but it seems like you nailed it. Very nice grain and stem work. The thought of trying that shape would make me a bit nervous as well. My focus has been in trying to nail the classics so the Eskimo is way outside my comfort zone. Nicely done.

Hm. I'm afraid you didn't hold your lines anywhere on that pipe. Also, none of the edges are crisp and/or consistent.

Those two things are the #1 visual difference between pipes that are considered collectable high grades and those which are not.

Spend some time studying each of the photos in this set, and you'll see what I mean: https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/new/ ... _id=185297

ACHIEVING that sort of line-holding and crispness is the issue, of course. It's fiendishly difficult, but also simple. It's just a matter of technique.

Here's an excellent exercise to get you experiencing and thinking about the Right Stuff. Find a 5 to 7 inch long piece of any sort of furniture-ish hardwood that's about an inch square. Then use your pipe shaping tools to make it stop-sign-shaped in cross section. Every facet equal in width, and every line dead-straight when you sight down it (or check with a machined straightedge).

After you've done that, you will have had a journey of many frustrations and no small number of revelatory Ah HA! moments. Guaranteed.

And your next pipe will be better. Much better.

I'm no expert on the eskimo shape as I don't find it all that appealing but I think you did a pretty decent job. I don't know that having crisp lines and whatnot is a must for the shape. The crisp lines on the pipe George references does give it a more professional grade visual appeal but I don't know that I'd say your softer, rounded version isn't appealing also. There are certainly lines that could be improved such as the shank sides where they curve upwards where they meet the bowl but all-in-all I think it's a good and successful pipe.

I agree with Wayne on this one. George knows his stuff, no denying that one, but I actually like the softer lines of this one. Then again, I don't really like the Eskimo shape at all in general. The only critique I have to offer is that I think it might have looks a bit better to have a little more flare on the stem after the saddle.

LatakiaLover I read over your response and was kind of left shaking my head and going back to Brian's pics to see if I could see what you were talking about. I should have followed the link you posted first LOL. It became very apparent what you meant when I studied Tom Eltang's Eskimo. Everything looks very purposeful, clean and definite. I also like your suggestion for practicing making spot-on lines with your equipment on a piece of scrap but I'm afraid after shooting for a hexagon I'm going to have something more akin to a double helix that a bus ran over.

Thanks for the inputs, guys. I appreciate it!
The soft lines was made on purpose, as I thought it looked good.
I've studied several Eskimos before I started, and I even made this one after some specifications I found on one of Eltang's Eskimos, just with my own interpretation. I did that to get a good feel of how the shape is "supposed" to look.
George, if we set the shank aside with all the missing sharp edges, what do you think of lines on the bowl then? Does it look weird to have sharper lines on the bowl, when the shank has soft lines?

I found the comparison of Brian's pipe with Eltang pipe to be an eye opener. It is an excellent demonstration of the lines concept, even though I like Brian's version.
Thank you, George, now we are on the same page.
DocAitch

Brian --

Whether soft & rounded or angular and sharp, all lines must "hold". Meaning be consistent in their angles and/or radii and not waver.

That's mostly where things go south for you on that Eskimo. There's a hump on the top of the stem/shank junction, for example, and after the hump the stem is scooped. Ditto along the bottom line. And wherever light reflections appear show that the flat(er) surfaces waver in small ways between the major line breaks.

As I mentioned earlier this is very tough stuff to get right. But it IS the difference between what collectors pay big money for and what they pass over when looking at show tables and websites.

Try the "stop sign challenge" I described. You'll be glad you did. (You're not allowed to shape a 9" block and then cut an inch off each end, either Working the full length up to the edges on the ends is a big part of the exercise.)

Ounce again George has pointed out two things 1)he says that you haven't nailed it.( I'm not an authority on this shape
But obviously George is) 2) You are not Tom Eltang. Bah Humbug remind you of anybody?

The Eskimo is fiendishly deceptive. It looks real easy to do, but is not. Last year I had a commission for one, which took me 2 goes before I got it relatively right. My advice would be to have a go at it again, if you can. You'll learn tons.
And I agree with LL, btw.