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Hi guys. Sorry for showing unfinished pipe but it's easier to apply any changes before it's finished.
Also please, try not to focus on the stem. This pre-molded stem will be soon changed for the hand cut one.

Before I start, I'd like to thank to all you guys for your time and help. I finally feel I'm on a right track. Mostly thanks to your comments.

To the point. For some time I gave up the idea of making long-shanked pipes.
It's my first billiard. Pipe below was my inspiration:
http://www.wozniakpipes.com/?project=3815

What I love about this pipe is the rim. That slight dome looks great. Btw, thanks Jeremiah for that protip. I don’t want to make flat rims anymore.
I do realize there isn’t much to say until it’s finished. But if there is anything you can point out, please feel free to do so.


PS. I decided to make shank/bowl transition at 90° angle. Is it acceptable?

You're definitely on the right track. I like a lot about this pipe. Two things would improve it.

1. Your bowl/shank transition is too sharp. You want more of a steep curve and less of a sharp crease. The radius of a 5-7mm chainsaw file is about right. I had to go too far to know where to stop too.
2. The dome is an improvement, but you should leave a clear definition between rim and chamber and rim and outside of the bowl.

And a tip on finishing. If you've sanded to higher grits, you might want to use a combination of heat and water (or denatured alcohol) to open the pores so it will take stain more easily.

I also like this pipe.
To add to Jeremiah's comments, the transition is too vertical on the underside.
If you were to take the outline of the transition and lay it out flat, it should look like a tear drop with the pointy end at the 'South Pole' of the bowl. This transition is like a collar that doesn't extend toward the 'South Pole'.
The external portion of this rim on this pipe is more sharply defined than the egg above.
DocAitch

Also, don't turn the shank line "upward" before or after the centerline of the bowl. It should be exactly ON it. (Pretend the curved yellow line extends to touch the vertical one. Sorry, this one was tough to draw)

Also, there's no need for oblique shots. Much less work for you, and right angles (top, bottom, front, back, L side, R side) is all we need 99% of the time.

LatakiaLover, after looking at your comments and critiques on several pipes I have to say, and I mean this comment with the utmost respect. You are the health inspector of this field. I spent 10 years working as an Executive Chef in multiple restaurants and it never mattered how well you were prepared they always found something to improve on. Thank you! You expect perfection, and while I am new to making pipes, and this isn't even my pipe, your comments never fail to point out the smallest details.

Now I need to go back and look at my pipes for this flaw. Keep it coming!

You are too kind. There are many PMF'ers who know this stuff---somewhere between 99.999999% and 100.00% of today's notable American carvers who started making pipes after 2004 used this site to achieve cruising altitude---they've just grown tired over the years trying to describe subtle details in words. (Besides difficult to do, it's time consuming.)

I just happen to have a super-duper, fancy-schmantzy, whiz-bang $1.99 drawing program from the Apple store that makes it fast and easy.