Hello Everyone,
I was wondering how others manage to get the stem bit flat and even and aligned with the button when filing. Sometimes it works ok for me but other times I have difficulty getting it flat and have to put a lot of work to get it that way. I usualy start by filing the lips on the button, to get a template going then take off stock with a sander, then return to filing and fine sanding. I have also filed through the button several times in an effort to get the bit thin. I usually work with acrylic. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Progcat@msn.com
Filing Stems
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KurtHuhn
- Site Admin
- Posts: 5326
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/Rhode Island
What I do is:
- Drill the rod and get it all setup with a tenon and such
- Cut the slot in the button end so that I have a point of reference for shaping the button
- insert a 1mm bit in the button end so that I have a point of reference for how thin I can go on the stem and button
- roughly sand out the shape on my belt grinder (really roughly)
- finish roughing in on my disc setup
- grab files and go to town - usually alternating with some time on the disc sander
If you're having trouble making the stem too thin and opening a hole to the airway, I suggest just going a little slower and checking your work more often. There isn't exactly a "secret recipe" for making a stem.
I learned stem patience a couple months ago. I tried to do a lot of stem shaping near the button with the disc sander, but you end up making a mess of the button and rounding over the edges quite a bit. I don't do that any more.
Also, to get the stem thin, I employ a set of calipers. I know the diameter of the airway, and I know how thin I can go, so I use the calipers to double check my work. As far getting it even on both sides, I just eyeball it. That's where inserting the 1mm bit into the slot comes in.
- Drill the rod and get it all setup with a tenon and such
- Cut the slot in the button end so that I have a point of reference for shaping the button
- insert a 1mm bit in the button end so that I have a point of reference for how thin I can go on the stem and button
- roughly sand out the shape on my belt grinder (really roughly)
- finish roughing in on my disc setup
- grab files and go to town - usually alternating with some time on the disc sander
If you're having trouble making the stem too thin and opening a hole to the airway, I suggest just going a little slower and checking your work more often. There isn't exactly a "secret recipe" for making a stem.
I learned stem patience a couple months ago. I tried to do a lot of stem shaping near the button with the disc sander, but you end up making a mess of the button and rounding over the edges quite a bit. I don't do that any more.
Also, to get the stem thin, I employ a set of calipers. I know the diameter of the airway, and I know how thin I can go, so I use the calipers to double check my work. As far getting it even on both sides, I just eyeball it. That's where inserting the 1mm bit into the slot comes in.
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StephenDownie
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
I do it exactly as Kurt does with the exception that once I'm getting close to the desired thiness I use a sanding stick with 220-320 grit paper to take off the last of the bit material. I've slipped using disk sanders and drum sanders in the past and have paid the price.
Stephen Downie
www.downiepipes.com
www.downiepipes.com
What Kurt said, measure.
After roughing out the area behind the button, I will rough cut the button on the belt sander, leaving plenty of room for final adjustments, but I measure and make sure the top and bottom are equal height from the drill bit I insert into the airway. Then, I measure from the top of the rough cut button to the stem and make sure I am even on both sides while I finish filing the stem to final rough dimensions, measuring with the calipers periodically to make sure I am not getting too thin.
After I am satisfied with the thickness of the stem, usually .18 rough cut, then I cut the slot, and flare the end of the passage with a drill bit. I usually finish the button to the proper height as a final step. Many different ways to cut a stem.
You can also take an LED pen light and shine it down the airway while you are making the stem. You will know very quickly if you are getting too thin, particularly with acrylic stems.
After roughing out the area behind the button, I will rough cut the button on the belt sander, leaving plenty of room for final adjustments, but I measure and make sure the top and bottom are equal height from the drill bit I insert into the airway. Then, I measure from the top of the rough cut button to the stem and make sure I am even on both sides while I finish filing the stem to final rough dimensions, measuring with the calipers periodically to make sure I am not getting too thin.
After I am satisfied with the thickness of the stem, usually .18 rough cut, then I cut the slot, and flare the end of the passage with a drill bit. I usually finish the button to the proper height as a final step. Many different ways to cut a stem.
You can also take an LED pen light and shine it down the airway while you are making the stem. You will know very quickly if you are getting too thin, particularly with acrylic stems.
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StephenDownie
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
I usually try for just a hair over 1/8th of an inch with Ebonite or Cumberland and a hair more if I'm using Lucite.
Stephen Downie
www.downiepipes.com
www.downiepipes.com
