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Ok, I went back and redone the shank. I know the stem is probably not ideal thickness-wise at the shank, but my main purpose was to save this stummel and work on my transition and add a taper on the shank (thanks Jeremiah ) Fire Away!

I still can’t see your images.
DocAitch

Good job on going back to it and reworking the shape.

The part of the bowl just above the shank needs a bit more material removed to make the curve wrap around the shank side of the bowl. The bottom of the bowl bulges a bit. You should have the bottom line of the shank gradually continue the curve all the way from the shank to the rim without going straight or reversing directions. At this point, I’m not sure if there’s enough material underneath the bowl to fix it. That depends on the way you drilled the chamber.

More subtle, the left and right cheeks of the bowl have slightly different curves.

Wayne and Scottie have good pointers on shaping the stem when you get to that part. Something about removing more material underneath the stem in certain parts.

I was able to open the images in a new tab on another device.
My first impression is that the bowl and transition look better.
To me the angle where the shank meets the bowl is too shallow and the shank is too straight (and possibly long), but these are not really addressable on this particular pipe.
study that on the next one.
DocAitch

DocAitch wrote:I was able to open the images in a new tab on another device.
My first impression is that the bowl and transition look better.
To me the angle where the shank meets the bowl is too shallow and the shank is too straight (and possibly long), but these are not really addressable on this particular pipe.
study that on the next one.
DocAitch

Thanks Doc, I figured it was beyond doing an S curve, main objective was to work on the transition and do what I could with the shank.

sandahlpipe wrote:Good job on going back to it and reworking the shape.

The part of the bowl just above the shank needs a bit more material removed to make the curve wrap around the shank side of the bowl. The bottom of the bowl bulges a bit. You should have the bottom line of the shank gradually continue the curve all the way from the shank to the rim without going straight or reversing directions. At this point, I’m not sure if there’s enough material underneath the bowl to fix it. That depends on the way you drilled the chamber.

More subtle, the left and right cheeks of the bowl have slightly different curves.

Wayne and Scottie have good pointers on shaping the stem when you get to that part. Something about removing more material underneath the stem in certain parts.

Thanks Jeremiah, I can see the difference in the sides of the bowl easier in the pictures. I think I can smooth out the curve on the bottom of the bowl, but I don't think I can carry it through to the stem without reducing stem size even further. It'll just have to stay tapered. I have been studying the pictures of Scotties and will ask her for tips on doing the stem for my next try.

Ok, I've gone back and corrected what you guy's have mentioned, think I may have gone a little too far on the right cheek (facing end of bowl) so it appears I'm off the other way now I'll fix that. I did what I could on the underneath side to correct the bump on the bottom. Now when running my straight edge from the rim all the way back to about 1/3 of the way up the stem, it has a slight curve all the way with no flat spots or bumps. LMK what you think now.

Better!

The transition from the face of the bowl and the top of the shank needs more definition. Like this:



See how just this subtle change can make a huge difference?