pipemakersforum.com

I realized that I posted this in a few other places but neglected to post here. I appreciate any honest feedback on this one. You won't hurt feelings so thanks in advance for taking time away to point out the good and bad so I can continue growing at this.

Thanks, Jeff

• Length: 4.58 in
• Weight: 2.00 oz.
• Bowl Height: 1.74 in.
• Chamber Depth: 1.25 in.
• Chamber Diameter: 0.75 in.
• Outside Diameter: 1.75 in
• Stem Material: German Ebonite

So - some of the pictures are gone/mangled, but I'd highly recommend reading and following the picture guidelines:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=8876
Makes all this shit easier IMO.

Standard "I'm a scrub and a newb so take this with a grain of salt" disclaimer applies as always, but here's what I see:
- grain orientation is great and it's a beautiful block.
- finish looks good to me, might have sanded through the stain some in the tight transition, might be the pictures
- my eye wants more curvature in the lines of the shank - scoot the low point of the bottom line back a bit and maybe get the top and bottom line less straight through the shank (YMMV)
- business end of button/slot looks great
- biggest detractor to me is the lines/crispness of the stem. The lines of the blade, bite zone, and inside of the button all look sort of nebulous and indistinct to me, and I think the shoulder of the barrel/blade transition could be both a bigger radius and could cut in harder, earlier - not sure what the thickness measurements are at the end of that radius and the bite zone, but visually it makes it look fairly thick to me. All of this is stuff I'm working on getting better at right now too, so it jumped out at me.

All that being said, I think that's a really nice looking pipe that you should feel good about. You asked for nitpicking

Yes, I do appreciate the nit picking.. that's exactly what I'm after. Funny you mention the bite zone. Someone else mentioned that elsewhere and believe it or not, its right at 4mm in the bite zone and 16mm wide which is what I'm shooting for and I think is pretty standard. Maybe it's the lighting or the shape of the stem making it look thicker than it is. I definitely see what you mean with the other things and will work on those.. especially the lines on the stem. It wasn't my favorite stem and I almost redid it.. but moved on to the next block

Sounds good bud - I tried to really look at the pictures closely because I thought it could be the light but I wasn't sure. How thick is it at the end by the shoulder? My rule of thumb (given to me by a pipemaker who actually knows what he's doing) was to shoot for 6mm at the end of the radius and then 4mm at the bite zone (of course).

What is throwing the lines of the stem off is that the blade looks flat from side to side and the sides of the stem aren't well defined. You don't want to be able to cut your lip with the sides, but they need to be really well defined or it makes you stem look fat. This is especially important on a saddle stem.

Here's a pipe of Abe's. Take a good look at the sides of the stem. They are defined and there is a small radius to the top and bottom of the blade.




Here's one from Adam as well.




I personally try to make the side of the stem (at the button) be as wide as the slot. This isn't a very good pic of that, but you can see the sides are well defined.

Right behind your button isn't very crisp either. That and your button need to be a bit taller are making the stem look fat as well.

I can't find the link (didn't look very hard), but watch George's video about sanding and finishing the stem right behind the button.

thanks Scottie, that makes perfect sense. I have seen Georges video, but need to watch it again. I'll dig around for it

scotties22 wrote: I personally try to make the side of the stem (at the button) be as wide as the slot. This isn't a very good pic of that, but you can see the sides are well defined.

Damn, that's something I never considered - I've just been eyeballing mine and then looking at the Abe/Davidson examples mine look too thick on the sides by comparison (probably). Now I'm going to have to frantically check when I get home.

scotties22 wrote:Right behind your button isn't very crisp either. That and your button need to be a bit taller are making the stem look fat as well. I can't find the link (didn't look very hard), but watch George's video about sanding and finishing the stem right behind the button.

Here's the thread: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8600
I haven't successfully used George's methods (there's that difference between knowing how to do something and being able to actually do it thing), but I think I've figured out another way to do it as of this most recent stem, and I'm over the fucking moon about it. All I want is for my crease to shine like mad

RickB wrote:All I want is for my crease to shine like mad

You should really try to wash it on a regular basis. I've head that helps

scotties22 wrote:

RickB wrote:All I want is for my crease to shine like mad

You should really try to wash it on a regular basis. I've head that helps

I'D INVITE YOU BOTH TO GO WATCH THAT VIDEO AGAIN.
Jerks

I was there when it was filmed. I know exactly what's in it

I know you were - but these days my brain is like a sieve and I just assume everyone else with kids is similarly affected
I have no idea why "shine like mad" became my favorite George-ism, but it really stuck with me

Here's the updated stem finish procedure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn64-J4Y3KM

scotties22 wrote: I personally try to make the side of the stem (at the button) be as wide as the slot. This isn't a very good pic of that, but you can see the sides are well defined.

I think I know what you mean, but just so it's clear in my mind:
Your aim is to make the thickness of the stem SIDE at the button is the same as how tall the opening of the slot is? Meaning, roughly, a millimeter and a half or so?

seamonster wrote:

scotties22 wrote: I personally try to make the side of the stem (at the button) be as wide as the slot. This isn't a very good pic of that, but you can see the sides are well defined.

I think I know what you mean, but just so it's clear in my mind:
Your aim is to make the thickness of the stem SIDE at the button is the same as how tall the opening of the slot is? Meaning, roughly, a millimeter and a half or so?

Correct