NYH Cumberland

For discussion of fitting and shaping stems, doing inlays, and any other stem-related topic.
Doug535
Posts: 271
Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2017 3:49 pm
Location: Independence, Missouri

Re: NYH Cumberland

Post by Doug535 »

LatakiaLover wrote:Been there, tried that. For cabinetry where most surfaces are flat, an expertly used & properly cut/prepped scraper indeed womps ANY type of sanding.

On pipe stems, where (almost literally) NO surface is EVER flat, scraping creates a shit ton of teenie weenie parallel ridges. Curved scrapers help some, but since they can never EXACTLY match the needed radius, you're still left with an unacceptable number of teenie weenie ridges.
That's what I was thinking, it's bad enough to me using the Emery boards and Kraft sticks to try to keep the facetting down to a minimum. By the way, I'm working on a stem for one of my Reverse Calabashes and I'll put some pics up in a little bit. Question, I know there is not an easy way to radius the top and bottom of the blade to make it thinner, but maybe a tip or two on getting it done a lil faster.
caskwith
Posts: 2196
Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 6:00 am

Re: NYH Cumberland

Post by caskwith »

Scraping works great to remove file marks but won't replace sanding as George points out.
UnderShade
Posts: 256
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2018 9:59 am

Re: NYH Cumberland

Post by UnderShade »

... and who likes a teenie weenie ?!
wdteipen
Posts: 2817
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm

Re: NYH Cumberland

Post by wdteipen »

I actually really like using cabinet scrapers. I use a curved one. It removes material fast and is more controlled than files. I typically rough shape on the shaping wheel, hog off material with a coarse file, fine tune the shape with cabinet scraper, then sand. Any parallel ridges I get are easily removed with a little sanding.
Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com
Post Reply