Twist drill bowl bits

[RickB]

Well I ordered a couple of the carbide bits to try out.

Lemme know how that turns out. I like mine but the bar being used as a basis for comparison is very low.

[caskwith]

Will do.

I am very happy with the results from my homemade bits, they cut a clean hole. BUT, they take a fair bit of time to shape, they only last for so many pipes and they have to be sharpened after 2-3 uses. That time quickly adds up and I think that even though the carbide drills are expensive they will quickly pay for themselves.

[dogcatcher]

Making pipes is strictly an additional woodworking hobby for me, so I waste very little money. From making candlesticks I learned that I can rough grind the edges of a paddle/spade bit and if I am pretty close it will work if I drill a 1/4" pilot hole first. I also shorten the shank so the over all length of the bit is about 3".

Here is my method, I draw half of the bowl shape on a piece of paper, then fold it over, and cut on the line. This gives me the bowl profile for the bit. I then mark a centerline on the spade bit, then I glue the cut out of the bowl profile on the spade bit. Using a bench grinder or a belt sander I grind the excess off of the profile. I use this in a cheap Harbor Freight table model drill press. With the pilot hole, the bit will follow true to the bottom, one you reach the end of the pilot hole, it will let you now. These pipes were usually made out of hard maple blocks.

As I said, I am not a real pipemaker. I landed up in this by making pipes for some stage props a decade ago, a few dozen more since then. These props did not need to be smokable, but I just could not do it that way, so I made them with a real bowl and stem that you could suck air through. I do know that some have actually been smoked, not real tobacco, but the funny stuff.

[caskwith]

For hobby use stick with spade bits, you can't beat them for price and versatility, I'll still be using space bits for certain bowl shapes.

[mightysmurf8201]

A while back (a long while back), I posted a how-to for grinding down silver and deming (reduced shank) bits. Essentially, you put them in a lathe and grind them down with an angle grinder. Dangerous, yes. Fun, no. Effective? You bet. Once profiled you go back with a grinder and make a relief behind the cutting edge, being careful not to put divots in it. You can use a dremel, grinding wheel, whatever. I generally drill 90% of the way with a 1/2" stubby drill bit, then finish with the modified drill bit.

I recently made a chamber bit using this method. The results were excellent, the process, well, dangerous lol. Takes patience, a lot of confidence, and a good helping of crazy. I will probably be making some more at some point. Good to see you back Kurt!

[Charl]

Will be interested in hearing how they do, Chris.

[caskwith]

Will be interested in hearing how they do, Chris.

I'll be sure to update after I have given them a thorough testing.

[caskwith]

Drill bits have arrived. First impression is that the quality is very high with large, thick carbide blades that should last a long time even with sharpening.

Looking at the construction method I would guess they were made by a company making router bits, they have a milled and ground tool steel core with brazed on carbide blades. They may be custom designed or they may be a modification of existing tapered cutter shapes. I suspect custom as I have spend many hours searching for suitable tapered cutters to modify myself and never found anything.

[wooda2008]

Drill bits have arrived. First impression is that the quality is very high with large, thick carbide blades that should last a long time even with sharpening.

Looking at the construction method I would guess they were made by a company making router bits, they have a milled and ground tool steel core with brazed on carbide blades. They may be custom designed or they may be a modification of existing tapered cutter shapes. I suspect custom as I have spend many hours searching for suitable tapered cutters to modify myself and never found anything.

I am tempted to get one for pipestone.

[Charl]

Thanks, Chris. Are they cutting allright?

[caskwith]

Only had chance to drill one bowl so far. First impressions were good. No chatter, decent chip formation (even in an end grain situation) and a suitably smooth bowl requiring no sanding. Still need to work on speeds, least squeal came from a slow speed as I expected really, there is a lot of drill bit to wood contact.

[Charl]

Thanks, Chris!