Billiard #3 Re-done

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shikano53
Posts: 267
Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:50 am

Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by shikano53 »

I rusticated the whole pipe and tried to even up the left and right sides. I still haven't worked on the button/slot because I'm not quite understanding what it needs. JM, if you could explain what you meant in my initial post I would appreciate it.
I'm not sure if starting a new thread was correct of if I should have added this to my original post.
My apologies to the moderators if I did this wrong. Didn't change the chin problem but I tried to even the sides out as mentioned above.

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wdteipen
Posts: 2817
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by wdteipen »

Nice!

There are several techniques to make a decent slot. What tools are you currently using? It may be easier to start there.
Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com
shikano53
Posts: 267
Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:50 am

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by shikano53 »

I drill the slot using a 1/16" drill after I have drilled the tenon end with a taper bit to about 3/4" inch of the slot.
Then I use a VFH slot cutting tool to
I then use a number of Otto Frei small files to expand the slot to what I consider is the correct width.
I find that It's real easy to get off track with the VFH slot cutter so I try and make it wide enough to use some of the small crochet files I got from OF.
I then try and keep the slot straight using same source small flat files. I find it difficult to shape the actual button itself. I trim a bit down or off and then chase it when I turn it over. I often run out of button height on one side or the other. I work the funnel with OF files and then try sanding it up to 600 grit by wrapping sand paper around the top of one of my small slot files that will fit inside and smooth the inside of the slot.
So far I have only been marginally successful and end up pitching the stem and starting over or going to a precast stem.
I'm way open to suggestions and ideas.
wdteipen
Posts: 2817
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by wdteipen »

Your process sounds good but you're right, the slot cutter you're using is very difficult to control and keep straight since it cuts 360 degrees. Some guys use it successfully. I couldn't get the hang of it. You might try replacing it with a homemade slot saw. I use a jigsaw blade ground down to a point and mounted in a handle. It works quick and is much easier to control. Before using the slot saw, I open up the airway a bit with a 3/64" drill bit in a cheap Harbor Freight rotary tool. The Otto Frei round 1/16" micro files are decent but they break easily. At $14 a pop that kinda sucks. Steve was selling round diamond files that are very strong. Not sure if he still has them but they are worth it.
Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com
shikano53
Posts: 267
Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:50 am

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by shikano53 »

Thanks Wayne, I made myself a slot saw as you mentioned but for some reason I don't use it. I will use it on my next try. I will also open the airway a bit as you mentioned!
Kind regards
n80
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2019 7:49 pm

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by n80 »

I see in videos some pipe makers starting the slot with a Dremel type cut-off wheel. Anyone do this and if so, what diameter wheel do you use?

Wayne, what size/number of teeth on the jigsaw blade tool? As fine as you can get I guess?

George
UnderShade
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Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by UnderShade »

I use the 199 cutter. It works really well. Gotta have a steady hand though...
shikano53
Posts: 267
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Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by shikano53 »

Here is my 0.002 cents worth. I use a Dremel bit to start my slot it's this one: Dremel #199 High speed cutter.
Here is the slot cutter I made from hand drawn diagrams Doc made and then sent me. He was very helpful. Almost forgot; this one as you can see is 18tpi I think I would make yourself a 24tpi and even a 32tpi if you can and try them out. I cut the blades thinner using my (what else) Dremel cutting wheel and then shaped them more on my grinder.
I hope this helps.

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LatakiaLover
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Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by LatakiaLover »

Turns out there's an itty-bitty spinny thing that's exponentially better than saws, files, etc:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IoAFf2hdhA
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
shikano53
Posts: 267
Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:50 am

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by shikano53 »

Right on! Great video!
n80
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2019 7:49 pm

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by n80 »

LL, great videos. The problem is, you're correct, those carving bits are hard to find. But I did find them here:

http://www.sugarpinewoodcarving.com/ind ... _1804_2804

Ouch! $20 for a 1/16 bit. I might have to fail a few times doing it other ways before I buy one.....but it doesn't take but a few screwed up vulcanite rods and you're out $20 that way too...........

Dremel makes a side cutting bit but the smallest size I could find is 1/8":

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-561-Multi ... 807&sr=8-1

Edit: When I clicked on the first link above the description says:

Foredom Steel Carving Drills

Three individual tapered carving drills made of high tempered steel with three flutes.
Specially designed for internal carving of wood. Maximum speed rating: 25,000 rpm.
1/16"


It is confusing because the initial link says "1" but the description says you get three so I'm assuming it is 1 package of three which makes it a little less pricey per bit anyway.

George
LatakiaLover
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Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by LatakiaLover »

UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
DocAitch
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Location: Baltimore, Maryland

Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by DocAitch »

I watched Premal cut a perfect slot in about 5 minutes with the 3/64” side cutting bit from Rawakrafted.
It requires a very steady hand and the cut must be kept in the same plane or else you screw up the internal geometry of the slot.
DocAitch
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
LatakiaLover
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Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by LatakiaLover »

Start with the tapered one. It's more forgiving and easier to learn with. Then move up to the cylindrical one. You'll be glad you did. The whole slot drama disappears forever once it has been mastered.

If you want a shortcut, this widget makes the process foolproof:

https://rawkrafted.com/tools/specialty- ... und-stock/
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
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RickB
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Re: Billiard #3 Re-done

Post by RickB »

shikano53 wrote: Sun Oct 20, 2019 11:19 pm I drill the slot using a 1/16" drill after I have drilled the tenon end with a taper bit to about 3/4" inch of the slot.
Then I use a VFH slot cutting tool to
I then use a number of Otto Frei small files to expand the slot to what I consider is the correct width.
I find that It's real easy to get off track with the VFH slot cutter so I try and make it wide enough to use some of the small crochet files I got from OF.
I then try and keep the slot straight using same source small flat files. I find it difficult to shape the actual button itself. I trim a bit down or off and then chase it when I turn it over. I often run out of button height on one side or the other. I work the funnel with OF files and then try sanding it up to 600 grit by wrapping sand paper around the top of one of my small slot files that will fit inside and smooth the inside of the slot.
So far I have only been marginally successful and end up pitching the stem and starting over or going to a precast stem.
I'm way open to suggestions and ideas.
I drill basically as you've described, cut the slot with the ubiquitous Dremel 199, open up the funnel first with a tapered side cutting bit and then clean up the corners with a regular old 1/16" drill bit and the interior as needed with a standard homemade slot saw and needle files. From there I take ~2mm wide strips of SiaRoll 320/400, cover one end with masking tape (to protect the tenon end) and put it in a vise and floss the interior to knock down any high spots and soften the edge of the slot (which looks less crisp but feels so nice). I clean that up with little triangles of 400 and 600 as needed, and then repeat the flossing with churchwarden pipe cleaners loaded with tripoli/fine buffing compound.
Chronicling my general ineptitude and misadventures in learning pipe making here: https://www.instagram.com/rustynailbriars/
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