Chuck and tool help.

[n80]

As mentioned in another thread, I have been given a 2HP 38" wood lathe. I haven't even picked it up yet.

I've been watching videos about basic wood lathe use and safety. I've read through the 'lathe' and 'chuck' sticky threads here.

I still have a lot of questions about chucks and tools as they apply to pipe making. I'm just going to throw them out there and see if you guys can point me in the right direction. But, I cannot afford to buy custom chucks or even high end chucks. I don't want to buy junk that I'll regret but I can't afford and probably don't need high end stuff.

The lathe I'm getting says it uses 2 MT bearing center and spur center. It is a tapered shaft. I do not know what this means in terms of what chucks I can use on this lathe or what thread count that translates to. Not sure how to figure this out.

In one of the sticky threads this chuck was referenced:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/17 ... -Piece-Set

Is this a reasonable chuck to start with? How can I tell if it will mount on my lathe?

Will I need a collet chuck also if I am going to do stem work on the lathe?

Will a basic 1/2" drill chuck be sufficient for the tail stock?

In terms of shaping tools, I have read that the carbide tipped scraping tools are probably better for beginners. I won't be doing tons of shaping but I will be doing some. Should I start with a set of these? (There are probably some tools with this lathe but I have not seen them yet and they would be 30 years old).

I plan on wearing a face shield while using the lathe. Is there a brand or model that is less likely to fog up on me?

Sorry about the basic questions but in terms of how to set this lathe up for pipe making I think this is the best place to find out.

George

[UnderShade]

You’ll need to check the threads on your headstock spindle. Your users manual should have this and if you don’t have the manual one can probably be found online. I like the Nova G3 (about $140). My lathe has 1”x8 tpi (threads per inch) on the spindle, so no adapter was needed. I also got the chuck jaws that Vermont freehand offers and have been satisfied.

A standard 1/2” Jacob’s chuck with M2 taper will be fine. I’m really digging the keyless chuck that I just got...

I would definitely recommend a collet chuck- same thing- verify the thread count on your headstock spindle. I use ER32 collets.

I use Robert Sorby high-speed steel turning tools, never tried carbide. Whatever you use, just make sure that they are razor sharp.

You can use just about any type of face shield. Just wipe it down with a defogging agent and you should be good to go. Hope this helps.

[n80]

Thanks. Good info. I will look into the Nova chuck. Seems affordable. The VF jaws seem pricey but look like they fit the bill. The collet chuck might have to be an add-on later but they're not terribly expensive. The tail stock chucks are inexpensive and I'd definitely go with a keyless.

I've got the owner's manual but cannot find the thread count on the spindle. But I can measure that when I get it. It looks like there are adapters for the more common sizes.

George

[UnderShade]

The VF jaws are the cheapest jaws for pipe making I’ve found. They are aluminum and don’t have angle pins, but fit the Nova G3 and are stout enough for what I’m doing. Way better than using the stock jaws that come with the G3.

[KurtHuhn]

I have a Oneway chuck that bought almost 20 years ago, and love it:
https://oneway.ca/products-category/chu ... (Complete)

I have a whole collection of jaws for it, including the #2 Tower jaws, which are great for holding briar blocks (only use 2 jaws, not the full set of 4). The nice thing is that I can use it on both my Jet wood lathe, and on my metal lathe with a thread adapter from PSI.

I have a full complement of Pinnacle (aka Wood River) turning tools, all of them steel. I did make myself a carbide turning tool once, but that was back before you could get the inserts from Amazon, and I got the wrong kind. It kinda worked, but not to my satisfaction. I've been thinking about revisiting that tool and modifying it to take the correct insert for wood turning - just haven't got around to it yet.

Face shield? I like to live on the edge. Somehow I still have all my teeth...

[J. Mouton]

I use the Nova G3 with VF briar jaws and they work fine. I have a separate G3 with pen jaws on them so I dont have to switch back and forth. Just switch the whole chuck when I'm ready for stems. My only suggestion about chisels is be careful and read the description. I've been turn wood for 20 yrs and I personally wont use any 10" hand chisels on a lathe. The 4" cutting blade and 6" handles are not really safe especially for a new turner. It is extremely easy to get catches with them. I say this because Robert Sorby's are notoriously sold with only pictures and if you dont read closely you will get a toy and not a tool. I make my own now by just buying hhs stock. I dont where a face shield, never have but it's not a bad idea. I just where a standard pair of safety glasses. Hope this helps and have fun making dust.

[UnderShade]

Never had a catch while turning briar. Then again, I use a metal lathe for most of my rough shaping nowadays, then use a fingernail gouge for details. n80- a good parting tool is a good place to start IMO.

[n80]

Face shield? I like to live on the edge. Somehow I still have all my teeth...

I may have mentioned in another post but I have a friend who makes duck calls on a lathe. His wife recently sent me a picture on him in the ER, missing one front tooth, fat lip with a laceration and a black eye. Don't know the details but I do know that glasses would not have done much for this specific event and a face shield probably would have.

I'm not a safety fanatic, but as a new lathe user I will probably get a face shield. Whether I keep using it or not...we'll see..

Thanks for all the tips on chucks and tools. I'm hoping this lathe will step my game up a little.

Here is another question. I use a forstner bit in a drill press to face the shank and stem. Still not happy with the results but it might be due to my vice/alignment in the press. I am aware that I can use the same process with the lathe but is there a better way....with a wood lathe...to do this?

[UnderShade]

I think you're making a smart move with the face shield. Shit happens, and you don't want your face in the way when it does. You can just chuck the forstner bit in your Jacob's chuck and go to town. Just make sure you're lined up properly.

[KurtHuhn]

Here is another question. I use a forstner bit in a drill press to face the shank and stem. Still not happy with the results but it might be due to my vice/alignment in the press. I am aware that I can use the same process with the lathe but is there a better way....with a wood lathe...to do this?

On a wood lathe, a Forstner bit is probably fastest. Don't use a cheap one! It will leave grooves that are a royal pain. I good precision ground bit is the way to go.

You CAN do it with a cutoff tool, scraper, or skew chisel - no risk of grooves if you put in the time to learn that process.

[Flygare]

When it comes to turning tools I would recommend carbide. They stay sharp a long time and you dont have to hassle with sharpening like with traditional tools. A good sharpening setup with jigs is expensive.

If you plan on turning/drilling mouthpieces, you might need Jacobs chucks of two dimensions since fine drills are used for mouthpiece end and bigger ones for chamber. I use two, one 0-6 mm and one 3-16 mm (sorry about the metrics...)


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[n80]

If you plan on turning/drilling mouthpieces, you might need Jacobs chucks of two dimensions since fine drills are used for mouthpiece end and bigger ones for chamber. I use two, one 0-6 mm and one 3-16 mm (sorry about the metrics...)

I've been using the same chuck in my drill press for both but it is an aggravation and Jacobs chucks are not that expensive so I'll definitely give that a thought.

[wdteipen]

Nova or Oneway chucks are decent and can hold all but the widest blocks with tower jaws. A self-centering 3 jaw chuck is a nice addition for stemwork and inlays and probably cheaper than collet chucks.

Make sure you get the right chuck to fit the headstock spindle. TPI = threads per inch. You don't need the manual; just measure how many threads there are in one inch. Then measure the diameter of the head stock. 1" x 8tpi is a pretty common headstock spindle size.

For your tailstock just make sure your Jacobs chuck is MT2. 1/2" is going to fit for most applications but a 3/4" will hold your spoon and S&D chamber bits better if you're using them. Pisser is that most 3/4" chucks won't hold a bit as small as 1/16".

I like the carbide tipped turning tools. I'd recommend skipping the mini's and going with the midi's for a more secure handle on the tool.

[n80]

Thanks. The headstock spindle is 1"x8 so that's good.

Hope to go pick it up tomorrow afternoon.

Good tip on the tools as I was looking primarily at the 'minis'.

[KurtHuhn]

Yeah, the minis seem to have a steeper learning curve. They're usually fine, but bigger, longer tools are more stable - at least in my experience. I tend to use a mix of them, with no particular reason or rational.

[n80]

I can't seem to find medium length carbide tools. Any references I can search for? I'd been looking at the mini set from Savannah Turning Tools. They're about $120 and get good reviews. Their large tools are a good bit more expensive and look too big to me for pipe work.....but I know nothing about this. If I have to choose mini or large....which way to go?

So far I'm leaning this way:

Nova G3 Chuck - $130
VF tower jaws - $80
Nova or comparable drill chuck for tail stock -$40

That's $250 before buying tools. Hopefully can get three tools for under $150 which will put me at $400.

And that doesn't include a 3 jaw or collet chuck to do stems!

I know that's nothing for a pro to spend and not that much considering I'm getting the lathe for free. But, this is diving pretty deep for a tightwad hobbyist who really needs a new set of sticky tires for his track car and whose wife really doesn't get why he's making pipes all of a sudden.

George

[UnderShade]

I’m stoked for you n80. This is gonna throw gas on your pipe making fire-guaranteed. I’m with you on costs, but for me, if it’s gonna help me make better pipes and I can fit it into my budget, I feel it’s worth it.

There’s definitely a learning curve on all of these tools, and I’m still getting the hang of the new additions to my shop. But the difference they’ve made to the overall quality of my work really surprised and delighted me. The lathe is an extremely versatile tool. You can turn with it, drill with it, shape with it, and buff with it. You’re gonna have fun... and your will see you less

[Flygare]

You can do stems in a 4-jaw chuck without collet etc. Just chuck it between the jawholders without any jaws mounted. Mine can hold at least 20 mm rodstock that way.

I am sure you’ll do great with the lathe, drilling gets far more easy. And I tend to do a lot of other woodwork on it as well.


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[n80]

Thanks guys. Good tip Flygare on chucking rod stock.

Can't wait to get the lathe but rain and other issues are keeping me from being able to get it. I'm not going to order chucks and tools until I'm sure this thing still runs properly. It might end up being next week.

[n80]

Got the lathe home. It turns on and runs great. Variable speed dial works perfectly (apparently this can be a reliability issue with this model). Other than dust and some fine surface rust on the bed rails it looks like new. I don't think it has ever been used.

Lowest speed is 500 rpm.

It is big. And heavy. It came with a work bench but it is a Craftsman metal work bench with a wooden top. Right now it is a bit flimsy. I will tighten it up and see if I can make it solid. If not, I'll make my own bench.

It comes with everything it came with new.

He also had a set of turning tools. Eight or nine of them. They look pristine. They are sharp-ish, but not what I'd call razor sharp. I'll still probably get carbide tools at some point.

I'll spend this weekend shoring up the bench. I'll get the rust of the bed and shine it up. Then I'll set it all up. I'll order chucks and such today.

One question: The tail stock has a hand wheel on the back. I thought that turning it was supposed to advance the spindle forward but it does not. Is that a special type of tail stock that does that?