encouragement for beginners

[KurtHuhn]

I know a lot of beginners are using pre-molded stems on their pipes, and in some cases this is a good thing - it allows the pipe maker to focus on getting a smokable instrument, and not have to wory about some of the more complex aspects of airway engineering, the button size, and the odd things that vulcanite can do when mistreated.

Last night I was sitting down after working in the workshop all evening, and was looking over a few hunks of briar trying to decide on shapes for the next few pipes. Then it hit me. I used to look at briar and try to force a shape from it based on molded stems I have on hand. These days, it's the other way around. I free up a shape in the briar, and then create a stem to match. in fact, as I thnk about it, I can't recall the last time I used a molded stem - it would have to be several months ago at least.

So, if you're just starting out, and are afraid that making your own stem is too difficult, or you don't have the right equipment, or don't think it will look good, I encourage you to give it a shot. All you really need is a wood lathe and some common bits, and you can easily make your own stems.

See another posting in the General section for a teaser on content for the Pipe Making section which will live again soon.

[LexKY_Pipe]

Kurt

Some steps to cutting stems from scratch would be good. Tyler's instructions were very helpful, but some photos of the process would also prove extremely helpful too. The shaping of the button, cutting of the slit etc is easier to comprehend when shown in video or pix. Hope some will be available someday.

[JSPipes]

Kurt, would you suggest some tools for making stems? Such as an appropriate drill bit, file sizes, etc?

Thanks

[KurtHuhn]

To cut stems, I use:

- lathe file (for rough shaping)
- needle files (for smoothing the slot)
- fine-cut file (for final filing the shape)
- 5/32 or 9/64 tapered drill bit (depending on chosen airway diameter)
- drill bit for creating mortis for delrin tenon (1/4, 5/16, 3/8, etc)
- lots of sandpaper grits (for final shaping and removing scratches)

I also use the wood lathe to shape the vulcanite, so a collection of wood lathe tools is needed like:
- spindle gouge
- skew chisel
- cut off tool
- skewchygouge (sp?)
- beading tool
- etc

[JSPipes]

Thanks Kurt. I have most of those tools. It's the tapered drill bits that I need to get. They shouldn't be too hard to turn up.

[NvilleDave]

Thanks Kurt. I have most of those tools. It's the tapered drill bits that I need to get. They shouldn't be too hard to turn up.

http://www.bitsnbores.com/html/category ... #target039

[marks]

One of the tools I use a lot when hand cutting stems is a caliper. I measure the stem thickness, the button height and button depth repeatedly until I finish with 220 grit paper. After that, I sand everything through 1200 grit, checking through a magnifier to make sure the current grit removed all the scratches from the previous grit. Then, you only have to spend minimal time on the buffer.

Kurt and I use very different tools to cut stems (meaning that there is more than one way to do an operation). After turning the stem blank on a lathe to get the desired diameter, I cut down the stem on a belt sander to approx .18 inch thickness behind the button. Here, I always measure with the calipers to make sure I have an equal amount of material on the top and bottom of the airway (I stick a drill bit into the airway for something to hold - belt sanders and fingers do not mix well). Then I file directly behind the button to make the back side of the button square to the stem, to remove sanding gouges, and to make sure the top and bottom are even. Then I will rough out the button shape on the belt sander to about 2/100's of final height, then do the button depth to about 2/100's of final depth. Then I move to the files and sandpaper, and most everything else from this point on the outside of the stem is by hand.

I cut the slot at the end of the stem with a buzzsaw bit on a dremel, then rough form the flare on the inside with a drill bit. From there, it is needle files, and rolled up strips of sandpaper to 1200 grit, then I melt some brown tripoli onto a pipe cleaner and polish the inside.

I buff the outside once with white diamond compound, then buff with Tan Menzerna compound. The white diamond will actually add some scratches after buffing (it is coarser than 1200 grit paper) but the tan Menzerna compound will remove those and make either vulcanite or acrylic very very smooth and shiny. (You can get the Menzerna from Grizzly).

Sounds like a lot, and it is, but you will get much faster with practice and forming your own methods and operations. (I admit I am not the fastest when it comes to making stems, but these processes work for me).

Oh, and if you are doing a flush fit stem, always make sure the stem is attached to the pipe when going through the grits or you will end up with a rounded over stem and different diameters on the shank and stem.

I've seen Paul Tatum use a disc sander to shape stems. He has to do less fine tuning with files and sandpaper than I do, as he is using one tool to shape most of the length of the stem. I cannot get used to doing this on a disc sander, so I use a belt sander and do more hand work with files to get the final shape.

As you practice, you will use tools and develop techniques that are comfortable for you. You can always practice shaping with wooden dowels. They are about a third the price of acrylic rods, and way cheaper than ebonite.

Good luck.

[KurtHuhn]

Kurt and I use very different tools to cut stems (meaning that there is more than one way to do an operation). After turning the stem blank on a lathe to get the desired diameter, I cut down the stem on a belt sander to approx .18 inch thickness behind the button.

Not so different as you might think.

I also use a belt grinder, but depending on the type of stem I'm making, I might only use ii for *very* rough shaping. However, I do also employ the use of sanding discs, and the shank and stem are typically shaped as one unit once the desired diameter is reached on the lathe

From there on out, it's all file work to get the shape I want. Once the shape is set, I fine tune it with strips of 220 grit sandpaper, nail files (and other fingernail beauty products), and cushioned sanding discs of increasing grits. On very small or ornate stems, I use Micromesh to finish the stem instead of a sanding disc.

[geigerpipes]

One Thing i find helpfull whn finishing stems, I know its been dicussed there long time ago, is using a blade or a small very sharp knife held in 90-80 degrees to the stem to take out scraches from files or rought grits you can even do some shaping this way. I usually do it after rough filing of the stem and the advantage it gives me is not having to go through the 120 and 280 grit papers it can take out deep scraches made from the file quickly....

Best

Love