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My 20th pipe was commissioned by a repeat customer. Makis plateaux, SEM ebonite and a resin extension. This block was flawless and the straight grain was super tight. Really enjoyed making this one. Apologies for the horrendous quality of these photos- some were taken in my shop and some in my kitchen. I will have much better pictures in the future. Critiques are welcome.

The bowl seems too big for the rest of the pipe/out of proportion. The stem's button also seems big. Looks as though it could slimmed down by nearly half of its thickness front-to-back. I also think the barrel of the stem could be about half the length. As it is, it looks almost exactly the same length as the shank extension and that makes it looks visually heavy IMO. But I'd definitely get someone else's opinion on that as that might just be a personal preference. That said, there's some really nice things about this pipe. The little step down on the barrel of the stem is a nice touch and looks well done. The fit of the shank extension and the ebonite ring look nice and tight. The stem's bend looks pretty nice as well.

Thanks for the feedback, JMG. The customer wanted something similar to a squat Tomato by Starkov (a very big pipe in terms of this style). Point taken with regard to the barrel, as this is the first one I’ve ever turned. I also wrestled with the button size, but given the overall size of the piece, I was afraid to make it any smaller. Again, I appreciate your critique and will keep it in mind for the next one.
Would love to hear from Doc or Sas on this one...

The pipe is very good and I like it. There are some details that I would do a little differently. But overall, good work. Fine! Keep it up and on.

Best regards, Odissey

Thank you, Odissey! Where do you think I could improve?

Nice pipe.
I noted some slight irregularity of the chamber rim in one of the views above. A slight bevel will clean that up and will remove an ignition point for burning the briar.

This is a piece of shovel handle turned in a cone. The paper is cut in a circle and slit to the center. You can use the grits up to 400+. (I was cutting a bevel in a plateau top with this grit)

You can also see from the pattern on the paper that I cut the bevels for my mortises with this device.
DocAitch

Thanks Doc! I really appreciate it.

UnderShade wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 1:15 pm Thank you, Odissey! Where do you think I could improve?

There are three parts in your pipe that I would do differently.
1. Bowl (photo # 4). The bottom of the bowl is rather sharp. It's a tomato - But where is it? I do not see him. You can't touch it anymore, you will completely ruin the bottom line of the smoking pipe.
2. (Photo # 1) The bowl-to-shank transition appears to be very smooth. I would do it with sharper lines.
3. Shank. This is a personal preference. I would do it with a noticeable increase in diameter towards the end of the shank. This would be an additional emphasis on this tube. Now there is nothing there that catches the eye. On a smoking pipe, every inch of it should attract attention.
In the form in which it is now, the emphasis is only on the bowl, there are no other accents.
The pipe you made is really beautiful, but it could get even better.
But this is just my personal opinion.

Best regards, Odissey

Thanks Odissey. I love learning this craft and really appreciate your opinion!

UnderShade wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:42 am Thanks Odissey. I love learning this craft and really appreciate your opinion!

Don't listen to me. I don't really like the traditional classic shapes of smoking pipes.
If you look at "smokingpipe.com" you will see many pipes that are like two peas in a pod, similar to the pipe you showed.
But now is the time when you need to look for something of your own, some new forms for classic pipes. Otherwise, in the general mass of undoubtedly good masters, you can simply get lost. You and I have a common problem, nobody knows us. Therefore, it is necessary to make such tubes that everyone will pay attention to. Alas, making just good pipes is not enough.

I just love to make pipes . I want to learn what makes a great pipe and I'm definitely not there yet. This was my first attempt at this shape, and I think (for my 20th-ish pipe), it's not too bad... but not great. It sold for $80 and the customer (not a high-end collector) was very pleased. That said, I LOVE classic shapes. I LOVE Danish shapes. I LOVE to try new things as well. It's all about the crafting for me and taking the awesome advice given on this great forum!

I have 2 mentors (both professionals and both formerly active on this forum) that give me really great, detailed critiques. I like to hear their opinions and compare to what is said by current members here. A lot of the same opinions, but sometimes different and always helpful!

UnderShade wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:59 am I just love to make pipes ...

We are all here just because of this.

I'll expand a little on what's already been pointed out. When I started really focusing in on my button work, I used a digital calipers to dial in all the dimension of the button. This helped me find dimensions that worked, and be able to replicate them consistently. I find that front to back thickness at .090"-.100", and height at around .280" tends to work really well, given a bite zone of around .150". Play with these dimensions and see what works for you. Also, that front view pic looks very tomato-ish, which is really nice aesthetically. The side view is a different story. Making it less oblong will help quite a bit in this respect, and will force you to tighten up the shank to bowl transition. I like the ornamental work in the stem/shank transition area. It works.

I’ll definitely give those dimensions a go on my next one. Thanks for your advice and compliment. I feel every pipe gets better thanks to the feedback from this forum. I really appreciate it!