pipemakersforum.com

Do you all have this problem or only a few of us?
When removing the masking off a blasted pipe I always get black residue left from the tape and I use 3M electrical tape.
It's easy enough to get of with a little alcohol but, I'd rather use something that doesn't leave residue behind.
Researched a few and ordered some and there usually useless because there either don't stick worth a dadburn or they won't conform to the pipes curves.
In fact the ONLY thing I've found to work well without residue and conforms well is 3M Blue Vinyl tape (not the paper tape crudola) that is used in automotive masking, but, it's pretty expensive. Anyone have something better that isn't quite expensive? Thank you in advance for any help.

Duck tape. Thin: Ace. Thick: Gorilla. Thin has more adhesion for curves, may need to double up layers. Thick has more abrasion resistance for flats, saves time vs. layering. What adhesive remains rubs off easily. As I think about it, though, I only use duck tape to briar at the blast boundary. Here’s what I do: cut a strip of duck tape the width I want for my margin, say, .035”. Once that is laid down, tape over that with a slightly wider layer, say, .1”. THEN, overlap and tape off the stem with blue painter’s tape, which leaves no residue, then swaddle that with duck tape because masking tape has zero abrasion resistance.

I lay down blue painter's tape, then the electrical tape over that. Never had an issue.

Thanks guys, anytime I use masking as a bottom layer I always find the electrical tape creeps off the edge.
Maybe I'm stretching the black tape too much. Anyhow, I did order some 3M 471 tape (Vinyl) and I know it works real well on it's own and with no residue, just a lot more money then the plain electrical tape. Hate to complain about the price of things but, as we all know it all adds up at the end.