Compressor and cabinet

[Kr0lex]

Hello I know this or similar questions have been asked plenty of time so I apologize in advance, but I don't wanna do/buy anything stupid so I just have to ask about two specific things as I am really tempted to buy some sandblasting equipment.
So I have read that you need a strong and large compressor to get the job done. Do you guys think this one would be good enough?

https://www.bergin.at/Bergin-Profi-Komp ... 19863.html

I know this is German and European data but converted the main numbers would be:
7,5 hp
tank: 71 gal
max psi: 145
cfm at about 90 psi (86): bout 22
cfm at about 116 psi: bout 21

Reason i am asking is, that i could have that one a second hand basis quite cheap compared to others in that range.

The second part of my questions is about the cabinet. Do you think this one would be fine?

https://www.powerplustools.de/sandstrah ... abine.html

Its 58 gallon without dust extraction system.

Most important question: is such a dust extraction system necessary or is it not that important for my purpose or can i just do that with my workshop vacuum cleaner that can be connected to the 58 gallon cabinet according to the website. If it is that important and the vaccum cleaner option doesn't work, would this one with integrated dust extraction system make more sense or is it overkill?

https://www.powerplustools.de/sandstrah ... gung-.html

I know, that is quite a lot. I d be happy for every answer. Thank you very much

[LatakiaLover]

I don't blast pipes, but have talked to dozens of pipemakers over many years about shop stuff, and without a doubt their biggest regret when it comes to sandblasting equipment is having talked themselves into buying one that was too small.

It's very nearly a CAN'T be too big/powerful situation. Short of industrial machines designed for removing rust from old steam locomotives (lol), you can't go wrong by increasing capacity.

Both time saved and the end result make it one of those "if I only knew then what I know now" situations. (Not to mention the money ultimately wasted by scrapping/re-selling the first rig)

[Kr0lex]

Thanks a lot That was actually pretty much the answer i expected xD

[caskwith]

That compressor is about twice the size of mine. At that kind of size you are probably wasting money, there is a limit to how much air you can get through a sandblasting gun and the tubes leading to it, my gun runs on 1/4" hose, at 90 psi it's maximum CFM is only slightly higher than my compressor can deliver, in reality you get constrictions in the system that slow that flow. For you to get full use of that compressor you would need a gun that uses 3/8" tubing which is probably going to be far too powerful for pipe work, you might not be able to hold on to the pipe and you might actually do damage to more delicate features.

In practice for me that means when running my gun flat out, the compressor is running about 90% of the time I am blasting which is fine, the compressor is rated for continuous duty but I never blast for more than an hour or so (with a few breaks inbetween to stretch, move pipes around etc)

You will need dust extraction but a good shop vac/dust extractor with cyclone separator should do the job.

[Kr0lex]

Thank you very much for the answers. I actually got myself a setup now and it seems to work quite nicely. I mean i need lots of practice but its fun. I got one more question regarding to that (I know its more of a finishing thing but since i startet that topic here in tools I thought I'd just add it here instead of opening a new thread): To what grit would you sand the pipe before blasting (and also rusticating)? I mean would a very high grit really make sense in these cases since you rough up the surface again anyway?

[DocAitch]

The pipe must be completely shaped before blasting, and the stem (for a flush fit) has to be ready to polish.
Finishing to a higher grit would be senseless, but I have occasionally been unhappy enough with a finished (polished and waxed) pipe that I blasted it.
I sand to 220 on most of the stummel, but go to at least 800 on the distal shank and stem.
You could probably sand to 100 for the completed shaping, but the stem has to be ready for polish.
DocAitch

[Kr0lex]

Thanks a lot. That helps somewhere between 220 and 300 was my guess. Stem is clear. By distal shank you mean the little non blasted transition area between the stem and the blasted part of the pipe?

[DocAitch]

Yes, the closest part of the shank to the stem. I realize my use of “distal” was confusing. In this reference it meant furtherest from the center of the stummel. This applies only to flush fit stems. Non flush fit stems are finished independent of the stummel.
DocAitch