Residual moisture in briar (morta etc.)

[Sebastian Heck]

Hi there,
how do you all "check" the humidity of the briar blocks (and other materials)? Just by knowing how long it dried after being cut by the cutter? Or do you use some kind of hygrometer to check?
Along those lines, what is a good range of residual moisture (%) in briar before you really get to work on drilling and finishing the pipe?

[UnderShade]

You never can be sure how long a block has sat and dried. I just assume it's still too wet to work when I receive it and put it in a big plastic bag to let it slow dry for 6 months minimum.

[DocAitch]

Weigh the block and mark the weight and date on the block with a pencil.
re weigh it periodically (4-6 weeks). Mark and date.
When the block remains approximately the same weight for a couple of weighings, it has reached the ambient moisture level for your location.
DocAitch

[Sebastian Heck]

Weigh the block and mark the weight and date on the block with a pencil.
re weigh it periodically (4-6 weeks). Mark and date.
When the block remains approximately the same weight for a couple of weighings, it has reached the ambient moisture level for your location.
DocAitch

Thanks! I read that in another thread now too. Solid advice! Just got myself a precise digital scale.

[wdteipen]

I've always purchased my briar with intent to let it dry in my shop for a minimum of three years so I don't even think about it. If I ever drill the chamber of a block and moisture wicks out, I let it dry at least a few weeks before continuing to any finishing stage. It will dry relatively fast once drilled and shaped.

[LatakiaLover]

Truly serious carvers who have been at it a long time and shoot for perfection in execution return "work in progress" stummels to the shelf for several weeks (or even a few months) after every step that removes significant wood. The reason is because moisture in the block will redistribute itself every time the volume (shape) of the block changes. And with that comes dimensional change.

The precision of stem fit, stem/shank leveling, and shank extension leveling remain MUCH better over time.

Doing it requires having quite a few pipes in process, though, to be able to keep working steadily in your shop.