Putting your name on pipes

stache · Post by **stache** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:41 pm

Can anyone supply me information on how to put my name on the pipes I make? Michael Lindner gave me the name of a place that makes stamps.

Does anyone else do something different?

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:13 pm

Some people stamp, but I think that Tyler preferred crayons. At least that's a rumor that I heard.

OleFattGuy · Post by **OleFattGuy** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:06 pm

This is something I've been fretting over for quite some time now. I was thinking of making my own mini branding iron of a pen torch and some typewriter types... But I'm not sure how the community feels about branded logos on pipes? Anyone?

I saw a slide show somewhere on the web recently of one Italian pipemaker (and I can't remember name or URL if my head depended on it) going through all the stages of making his pipe and he used a big handle thing with a metal stamp which he manually pressed into the wood...

Another Idea I've had is welding a logo of a slightly bent metal piece on to a pair of pliers and a rest of some sort on the other plier arm. Dunno if that would work but...

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:22 pm

Love Geiger and Tom Eltang (among others) engrave their pipes. Some use a dremel - in fact, I did for a while. But I think you'll find that most makers stamp their pipes.

I'd love to find an affordable laser engraver. That would be just about the coolest thing I can think of - involving lasers anyway.

stache · Post by **stache** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:26 pm

Thanks Kurt.
I actually just sent you an email about this subject.

OleFattGuy · Post by **OleFattGuy** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:27 pm

But where (oh, where) do they find their STAMPS?
Do they make them themselves and, if so , how?

stache · Post by **stache** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:31 pm

The one source I've found so far is in Long Island, New York. I spoke with him earlier today and he said if I gave him a design he could quote on a stamp for me.

He makes a metal stamp with a handle. The handle can be removed and the stamp portion can be used on a drill press to literally press your name into the stummel.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:34 pm

This guy makes some of the best stamps I've ever seen:
Paul Argendorf
A&M Stamps
55 Windsor Avenue - Mineola, NY 11501
516-741-6223
amsteelstamps@yahoo.com

That's who a lot of pipe makers I know have bought their stamps from.

stache · Post by **stache** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:02 pm

That's the guy I spoke with. Did he make one for you Kurt? What sort of price range do think it would be?

LexKY_Pipe · Post by **LexKY_Pipe** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:31 pm

His stamps run approximately $150.

JohnCongleton · Post by **JohnCongleton** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:34 pm

LexKY_Pipe wrote:His stamps run approximately $150.

Wow... I guess there's not much of a market in used stamps either, eh?

stache · Post by **stache** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:21 pm

Did you get one? If so how do you like it? Does it make a good imprint?

LexKY_Pipe · Post by **LexKY_Pipe** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:58 pm

I'm still saving for one, but those who have used him -- e.g. Tim West -- they rave about them.

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 6:18 pm

Crayons are indeed the best method UNLESS you want to sell a pipe to Neil, in which case you should buy a stamp. Neil aside, I still like crayons and recommend them highly to my friends.

Crayons rule!

Tyler

P.S. Really, I just used crayons so a distinction could be made in my "come back" pipes. Pre-trans Tyler Lane's -- crayon, Transition -- no markings, Post Transition -- Stamp like a real pipe maker. That way the dating of the highly collectible Tyler Lane's will be mysterious but easily discerned.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 6:34 pm

A&M's stamps run anywhere from $45.00 and up. It depends on what you want, how many letters, etc.

I just bought a couple. One was "06" for this year, and the other was "MPL" for a bulletin board club pipe. Those two were $45.00 each.

I originally bought two stamps from them. One was "RAD DAVIS", and the other was "Hand Made USA". These were $90.00 each.

And A&M's stamps work great. The only problem is keeping the stampings in a straight line.

Hope this helps.

Rad

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 7:34 pm

RadDavis wrote: And A&M's stamps work great. The only problem is keeping the stampings in a straight line.

That's why I had mine made in a circle.

Problem solved.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 7:38 pm

Weeeeell...................Isn't that special!

Rad

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:27 pm

I've been considering getting mine in an oval, with a space in the center for the grade. But, these stamps are still in top-notch condition, and I don't suppose there's another KURT HUHN making HANDMADE pipes out there that I can sell these too, soo.....

Mrpickwick · Post by **Mrpickwick** » Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:38 am

Hi I purchased a well made name stamp from a company in the US last year, but I made the mistake of ordering it too big. I have used this stamp on many of my pipes but because it was a bit large it was often tricky to stamp etc. I did use it the last couple of times mounted in my drill press with the stummel protected in a vice and the stamping turned out quite good, better than hitting it with a hammer and safer. I've just ordered a full set of letters & numbers from an online store in the UK because the size was just what I needed & so was the price even with postage. I'm intending to stamp my pipes with grade & date codes so I'm going to rig up some kind of system for pressing the stamps etc. I'll let you know how I get on as I won't have the stamps for a month as they are on back order.

Don
spedenpipes.com
Niigata Japan

rathpipe · Post by **rathpipe** » Sat Mar 25, 2006 2:16 pm

Hello all,

I bought a couple of stamps from A&M because Tim West uses that company. Tim had told me to roll in the stamp and it does seem to work. I decided to set up a jig on a piece of wood with a v block. I drilled a hole dead center in the V block to accept a drift pin and then put that size drift pin in the drill press, through my V block , then clamp down the wood that the V block is attached to. This way I'm centered and then I eyeball the pipe in the V block. Since the drill chuck turns, I use a dowel rod to square the stamp up with the V block. The drill press ends up being a nice arbor press and the downward force can be controled very well.

Oh, and by the way, don't turn the drill press on!!

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Putting your name on pipes

Putting your name on pipes

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