four

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alexanderfrese
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four

Post by alexanderfrese »

I finally finished two pipes. Not that they took me that short time, they were just finished in one month…

So here is number four:Image
Klick here to see the complete gallery.

Again based on a set prebored by Love Geiger (warm thanx again!) for me. Stem premade, but fine-shaped and bent by myself.

Some known issues: Stem/Shank junction. I know how to work on it to keep it smooth, but it seems that over the time I am working on the stummel, I always grab on the shank’s edge with something…
Some mild symmetry issues. In fact I had finished this one completely, when I realized a rather big, disturbing unsymmetry. So I had to go back to 60 sandpaper…
One flaw in the shank. So it goes…
In the pics, the surface somehow seems more uneven that it is. I experimented with some add-on softboxes for my flashlights, and did not see the harsh reflexes until I had the pics in my computer (and had taken the whole table top setting away…)

Any opinion and critique welcome.
Alexander Frese
www.quarum.de
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marks
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Post by marks »

Very nice pipe. Nice lines, nice shape, nice finish, etc, etc, etc...
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mahaffy
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Post by mahaffy »

Alex, the "hot spots" are going to be there, I think. When you shoot jewelry or silverware, a paste is applied to stop reflections . . . which would not be very flattering, nor show how nicely polished your pipe is. Very pretty work.
alexanderfrese
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Post by alexanderfrese »

Reflections on polished items are fine, or you won't see the shine. It is hard to direct the reflections on the item, since only they will add the perception of shine and depth of the item.
I experimented with some white and some black cardbox stripes I arrange around the pipe. These bring on some more even shine. The direct reflection here comes from a small softbox applied to a flashlight. It widens and softens the area the flash covers and makes the reflection look like a highlighted area, rather than those nasty little pinpoint higlight spots coming from the small flashlight output lenses.
But looking closely to the reflections on these pics, they look as if there still is considerable roughness. So I have to use better softboxes or switch back to indirect flashing against wite cardbox.
Alexander Frese
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mahaffy
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Post by mahaffy »

I believe bounced lighting gives a more diffused light than a softbox or flash through a screen. I use square white umbrellas w/ my strobes, either bounced or through, but ideally I believe a couple of large sheets of foam-core would give the best bounce for the ounce. (Sorry, I couldn't resist it.) Your experiments with the b&w strips --- hmmm. You've thought of trying perhaps a window-shaped cutout, or is that too corny?

A methodical man, you are, Alex. I'm impressed. I think a lot, but usually get in too big a hurry, accepting the "pretty good" when I should hold out for the "excellent."
alexanderfrese
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Post by alexanderfrese »

The b&w stripes? Its just that I remembered a small tabletop layout in the photo studio of my cousin, where one of the trainees had to do some lessons. He had to take photos of some sort of glass tubes (they know what bugs a trainee), and he wasn't allowed to use the big studio room. Such a setting lets the light reflect from every where, so there were no clearly highligted nore darker areas on the tubes’ surface. Trick was to use the usual bouncing the opposite way – with black bouncing foils, so these foils would bring out the necessary darker tones within the reflections. The big studio room would not make that necessary (to some extent), since the light that is reflected by the distant walls is too weak to light up the scene…

And believe me – method might give the impression of a stright way to a perfect goal. And if one talks about it it usually sounds good. But I too know more about the big hurry than about all the rest… :wink:
Alexander Frese
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler »

Alex,

Nice pipe!

From your comment on the stummel/stem junction, it sounds like you are doing some of the work with the stem removed from the stummel. If this is the case, I'd recomment leaving it in at (almost) all times. The only reason that I remove the stem is when the length of the stem prevents getting at a certain part of the bowl when shaping. This is a very rare occurance in my experience.

Again, good job!

Tyler
Last edited by Tyler on Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
alexanderfrese
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Post by alexanderfrese »

Tyler,
yes, maybe I have to make this a must. In the early stage of rough shaping, I sometimes feel like I am not getting the bowl into the right position to the sanding disc with the stem attached. I will have to take more caution on that part of the process.
Alexander Frese
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achduliebe
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Post by achduliebe »

Alex,

Beautiful pipe. I love the lines and the staining. Nicely executed.
-Bryan

"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"

www.quinnpipes.com
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sethile
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Post by sethile »

Hello Alex,
I like both your #4 and #5. I love bent pipes, and the over all shape of #4 is the most appealing to me, but I think your concept and execution on #5 is excellent. It's always hard for me to tell from pics, but your symmetry looks like it turned out well after all on this one, and you especially nailed it on #5. Those diamond angles look nearly perfect, and I can imagine it being quiet difficult to pull off.

Looking forwad to seeing more pipes from you.
Scott E. Thile
Collector, smoker, and aspiring pipemaker.
http://sethilepipes.com
Sysop: http://pipedia.org
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