PIMO tenon tool tips?

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Thu May 13, 2004 12:43 am

Just bought my pimo tenon turning tool and wanted to know if any had any tips for me...?

I also bought extra stems

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu May 13, 2004 10:53 am

For consistent results:
- pull up on the adjusting hex key while adjusting the arm.
- do not let go of the adjusting hex key until the set screw is tight.
- do not loosen the set screw until you have a grip on the adjusting hex key.

For a tight fit:
- turn the tenon larger than you need, then sand it to size with 400-grit or higher sandpaper. This also gets rid of thos ugly machining rings on the tenon.
- the above tip is made easier if you have a 1"-wide belt sander and a light *light* hand.

For stem-to-stem consistency:
- use one mortis/tenon size, adjust the tool to the right diameter, and *never* change it. The tool is non-indexable, and you'll never get it back to where you had it before.
- if you use different mortis/tenon sizes, get a seperate tool for each size.

As Pooka said, you'll usually need to widen the air hole in the stem to fit the guid pin. The official pimo bit to do this is .128 diameter, so I guess the guide pin is probably .125 (1/8"). I normally widen the airhole anyway, since the airhole on most molded stems is too restrictive.

The thing to remember is that, even though you're using the same bit to drill the tenon on every pipe, that hole will never be exactly the same diameter. If you were drilling stone or plastic - maybe. Briar, even though it's relatively stable, will still have variations in grain, moisture content, and so forth that can cause that 5/16" bit to make a hole that's slightly larger or smaller depending on factors that you have no control over. That's why I suggest turning the tenonlarger than you think you need, and sanding it down the right size.

TreverT · Post by **TreverT** » Thu May 13, 2004 1:24 pm

This is going back a few years as I haven't worked with a PTT since 97 or so, but one tip I can strongly suggest is liberal use of oil, especially on the guide pin. If you try to use the guide pin in an acrylic stem unoiled, the sheer friction heat can melt the acrylic interior and cause an instant bind & snap. Oiling the cutter will get you a smoother cut, too.

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Thu May 13, 2004 1:51 pm

So who can tell me exactly how the whole thing works?? I think I get the general idea from the picture on the website but I don't know I understand the mechanics of it all...

jchamb · Post by **jchamb** » Sat May 15, 2004 4:31 am

Well, I just got my Pimo tenon turner yesterday, and I can see what you mean by "never change it"!

I got about a dozen stems, and the air hole on all of them were far too tight for the guide pin. Once I enlarged the air hole, it took quite a few times to get the thing set "almost" right for a 5/16 tenon. I think I'll just leave it at that setting for all my pipes!

It does work well though, and a little light sanding produces a nicely fitting tenon. I wonder at the $64.95 price for this tool, but since there aren't many (or any) alternatives, I'll just be happy with it.

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Sat May 15, 2004 8:20 am

JC, if you don't mind I will be watching your progress on the use of this tool. I haven't order mine yet, still in the early stages of (learning *) pipe making. If you would please keep posting on this.

*(learning)= Texas word for someone teaching someone something.lol

JC wrote
It does work well though, and a little light sanding produces a nicely fitting tenon. I wonder at the $64.95 price for this tool, but since there aren't many (or any) alternatives, I'll just be happy with it.[/quote]

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat May 15, 2004 2:06 pm

random wrote:
jchamb wrote:I wonder at the $64.95 price for this tool, but since there aren't many (or any) alternatives, I'll just be happy with it.
Wow, I may be misremembering, but I think that's at least twice what I paid for one of the things a couple years ago.

I think you're recalling correctly, Random. I don't think I paid that much either. However, I've lost the records and can't confirm...

jchamb · Post by **jchamb** » Sun May 16, 2004 8:30 pm

I recall reading some page on pipe making tips dated a couple of years ago where the Pimo tool was said to be about $30. That sorta added to my shock when I saw it on their web page for over twice that.

I used a blank stem as a test, and had a heck of a time getting the tool adjusted to the correct diameter setting (I use a 5/16" mortise). Now that I have it set correctly (by trial and error) I'm going to leave it there as long as I can!

It does work very well though, and although I trimmed my "test" stem too small twice, they have plenty of material to work with - so I can still trim off the mistake and cut a new tenon.

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Tue May 18, 2004 2:56 pm

I got mine in yesterday. The mail man forgot it in the truck and brought it back later that day! I love it! I tried to hand sand tenons 3 or 4 times and was so upset with my results that I had not choice but to purchase this. I, luckily, think I got the setting right on my first try... My only thing is that I only had to work on the slightly-over-sized tennon for like 2 minutes before it would fit. Do you guys recommend that the tennon be REALLY shiny and nice even tho it's inside the mortise?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue May 18, 2004 4:00 pm

bscofield wrote:Do you guys recommend that the tennon be REALLY shiny and nice even tho it's inside the mortise?

Yes, absolutely. Anything else just looks cheap. I even go so far as to buff and carnuba the tenon.

Case in point:
I have a GBD Rhodesian (shape 9438) that I *love*. It's got no fills, the finish is really shiny and never wears off (what the finish is, I'll leave as an exercise to the reader), and a wonderful fat stem. I love this pipe, it's easily one of my favorites. I just love the look, the way it smokes, everything. Take the stem off, though, and you see a rough machined tenon. It's ugly. It's light-brown instead of black, the machining rims are visible, and it feels very rough when you insert or remove the stem - like a grating feeling you get when you rub rucks together. As a counterpoint, a polished tenon will feel buttery and smooth as it's inserted and removed - and this really adds to the entire smoking experience in a very positive way.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue May 18, 2004 4:04 pm

Agreed. A polished tennon is well worth the offort and adds a level of detail that at least I appriciate. You're right in that it doesn't affect the smoking quality though.

TreverT · Post by **TreverT** » Wed May 19, 2004 5:49 pm

Nick wrote:Agreed. A polished tennon is well worth the offort and adds a level of detail that at least I appriciate. You're right in that it doesn't affect the smoking quality though.

Keep in mind that sometimes this isn't possible - I and many other pipemakers prefer using delrin for our tenons, and it will never be glossy and shiny. It's just the nature of the material. I could polish it to a high gloss, but the first time it was inserted into a mortise, it would emerge looking dull and hazy again. The reason we use it is not for looks but for performance - it is tougher than either acrylic or vulcanite, bends instead of snapping, and has greater surface lubricity for a very nice slick insertion. A natural delrin tenon fits like a waxed vulcanite tenon.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed May 19, 2004 6:41 pm

TreverT wrote:Keep in mind that sometimes this isn't possible - I and many other pipemakers prefer using delrin for our tenons, and it will never be glossy and shiny.

True, that. However, a machined delrin tenon, even one left "raw", looks far better than a "raw" vulcanite stem. In my opinion anyway. It also feels much better during insertion or removal of the stem than rough machined vulcanite.

SmokingArea · Post by **SmokingArea** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 2:09 am

How much extra thickness would you say needs to be left on the tenon in order to sand it smooth and polish it? Are we talking turn the tenon to the point where it'll barely insert, or so wide it won't insert at all until after the sanding and polishing?

And by polishing - you mean polishing it on the buffing wheel? Does this induce a significant risk of rounding the edge where the stem meets the shank?

Has anyone had the problem where prefab stems airhole was too lose for the Pimo tenon turner? On the ones that are too small, how difficult is it to get the new hole centered?

And when its suggested to use oil to lubricate the guide pin - I'm guessing olive oil?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:27 am

That's tough to say. Folks who cut tenons on a metal lathe just use a radiused cutter, which produces a surface that's already shiny and polished. If you're using the Pimo tenon tool, you need to keep test fitting that tenon all during your sanding and polishing to be sure it's going to fit.

When I was using that tool, I could easily spend an entire afternoon trying to get a tenon to fit right, on a single pipe. After discovering Delrin (due partially to Trever's post above), I never looked back.