Sealing with Danish Oil

Sanding, rusticating, sandblasting, buffing, etc. All here.
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Heinz_D
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Sealing with Danish Oil

Post by Heinz_D »

Just from my thread about my pipe #5 (http://www.pipemakersforum.com/modules. ... pic&t=1843) I think it is interesting to open another thread with the treatment with Danish Oil for the finish.

Because shellack is a good sealing for the finish (stained and unstained) but only get into the surfaces pores of the briar (perhaps a little bit deeper), I'll write something about sealing wit oil.
Tung oil, Tung is a tree found in China and Africa and some South American countries.

"Linseed oil is extracted from the seeds of the flax plant by steaming and crushing them. Raw linseed oil is boiled to remove impurities and helps to make the oil dry faster.

"Danish oil is simply a mix of of various oils such as Tung and Linseed Oil with some additives to aid drying.

"Teak oil is fundamentally a mixture of various oils extracted from vegetables. It has nothing to do with the wood Teak.

"Boiled linseed oil and Danish oil are probably the best oils to use, linseed oil can be thinned 50 - 50 with white spirit to aid application and vastly speed up drying time, the white spirit simply evaporates. Another excellent oil to use is Rustin's Danish oil, which is a blend of various natural oils and synthetic resins which provide excellent hardening and drying properties. It forms a very tough seal on worktops."
So, the treatment with linseed and Danish Oil will be still the same, but linseed oil needs more time for drying, aprroximately up to two weeks - Danish Oil dries withn 8 to 48 hours!

The effect of this oils is that they will get deeper into the briar and react slowly with the air's oxygen to polimerise and get hard. After finishing this polimerisation they're neutral in relation to smell and taste! They'll close the briars pores much more deeper than shellack and they're harder after that process. An oily gloss remains on the surface but if you feel with your fingers it isn't greasily at all - it's just the shining surface.

Using oils after staining (or without staining) will fix the stain and/or seal the briar. Oils always bright up the stain so it'll be a little bit (of course) brighter after this treatment - unstained briar will be glossy and the structure of the briar will appear in a nice contrast (have a look at my #4: http://www.pipemakersforum.com/modules. ... pic&t=1825)

The finish can be polished with carnauba wax to get a more glossy finish or just polished to get a semi glossy finish.

To finish with one of the oils just use a cotton wool cloth or -as I do - a kleenex, put some oil on it and wipe off the briar bountiful. Wait about a few minuites to allow the oil to get into the briar and wipe off with another cloth. Let it dry for 4 to 8 hours and repeat this steps 2 times. After that allow drying for 24 to 48 hours. If you don't feel any greasy film on the briar with your fingers it'll be dry enough to polish with carnauba as usal.

Take care of the self inflame of oil conterminated clothes - I'll always burn them after use! Also be care to use the oils in portions - they'll react with oxygen and polimerise. I'll always take them out in portions from and never pour them back into the original bottle!

Any questions?


Greetings,

Heinz_D
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mahaffy
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Post by mahaffy »

Thanks, Heinz. Just shows to go you, it pays to ask questions.
fastredx
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danish oils etc

Post by fastredx »

Just curious, have you tried Tung oil? Is it ok to use on pipes?
pierredekat

Post by pierredekat »

fastredx, if you're really opposed to using carnauba wax, I'd highly recommend giving "French polishing" a serious look. You can find some great tutorials online here:

French Polishing

French Polishing

French Polishing

French polishing is essentially a technique of applying shellac flakes using grain alcohol and a drop or two of olive oil.

And since shellac is made from bug secretions and is considered "edible", and since olive oil and grain alcohol are "drinkable" -- in moderate doses :wink: -- I think it might be a safer alternative to some of the other finishes.

If you've never worked with shellac, it's pretty amazing stuff, really. Dries to the touch in like 10 seconds, can be "built up" rather quickly to fill pores in medium texture alternative woods, and if done right, will result in a durable, near-mirror finish.
fastredx
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Oils

Post by fastredx »

I'm not opposed to carnuba, just exploring options. I like to experiment. Actually,if I ever get our farm sold and get moved I want to set up a small wood working shop and the first thing I want in it is a good buffer. Thanks for the tips on the frech polishing and shellac.
Zelle
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Location: Sweden

Post by Zelle »

Since I have done the finishes on a bunch of gunstocks I am pretty familiar with oils you have discussed in this thread. Important to now is that the additives that they mix in boiled linseed oil are a bit toxic. Raw linseed oil on the other hand you can drink gallons of, it is totaly non toxic but will never, ever, totaly dry, it will always be a bit greasy.

Danish oil also has these additives, like boiled linseed oil, and will be a bit toxic. I do not know if there is any real danger, if there will be any gases that one might inhale if the pipe gets hot during smokeing.

I do not think there is any real danger but you might want to know this about the oils.

If you do not mind these additives I would highly recomend an oil named "true oil" which is manufactured by "birchwood casey". This oil will give an "in the wood finish", and give an extremly shiney finish. If you want a glossy finish it can be rubbed down.

stefan
linearone
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Re: Sealing with Danish Oil

Post by linearone »

I've always wondered why nobody talks about using linspeed oil.
I've done a few gun stocks with it, sanding up to 400 grit then using steel wool, rags, paper bags etc and I have gotten incredibly durable, very high gloss finishes that are repairable if scratched.

I'm probably never gonna experiment with it on a pipe at this point but I wish someone would.
I guess it's just another alternative. You can likely get as good or better a finish doing less work tbh
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Sasquatch
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Re: Sealing with Danish Oil

Post by Sasquatch »

That's just it, I mean, there's at least a dozen different ways to finish a pipe. I know a guy who uses polymerized tung oil as a base coat. This strikes me as totally horrible - like, it's one of the only finishes in the woodworking world that is a vapor-sealer and not just a water sealer. And yet... his finishes are lovely and the pipes have no issues. So..... okay.

The "danger" of various Danish oils, boiled linseed, polymerized oils, varnishes etc is while they are wet. Don't drink 'em. But on a pipe, just as on your grandmother's oak table... they are fine.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
dogcatcher
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Location: Abilene TX or Ruidoso NM

Re: Sealing with Danish Oil

Post by dogcatcher »

Watch this one. I use it on hand tools I also mix in some cannula wax.
https://youtu.be/GUyXm2IL4OQ
dogcatcher
Posts: 162
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Location: Abilene TX or Ruidoso NM

Re: Sealing with Danish Oil

Post by dogcatcher »

Watch this one. I use it on hand tools I also mix in some cannula wax.
https://youtu.be/GUyXm2IL4OQ
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