Buttons ---HELP!!!

[custom300]

I have really tried to concentrate on the button and take my time. Things were going really well...I was following Kurt's step by step (thanks by the way). I cut the slit with a dreml and the little round saw bit. I used a 1/16" bit to create a 1" channel down to the main draught hole size. I chucked the 1/16" bit into the dremel and attempted to expand the slit into a "Y" using the 1/16" bit. THat's where it went very badly. The Y shape was okay, but it widened everything out so much that I couldn't get a nice thin bit.

Was I using the right tool? Trying to cut too fast(RPM)? If anyone has had similar issues and conquered I would sure like to hear about it. This was one of my best pipes yet until I did the button.

[ckr]

Dremals are very fast and take a pair of very steady hands. These go slower but they will get you there.

Wish I could take credit but someone here has previously suggested these (a broach), they do allow you to widen the hole into a very thin slot. You just stick it in, bear left or right and when you pull outwards they cut and remove material.



you can get them http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp from here

They also have needle files to shape it with and finally the compound on the pipe cleaner chucked up in a drill to polish up your work.

[KurtHuhn]

I use a 1mm drill bit chucked in my dremel flexi-shaft to shape the cone of the airway. The procedure is difficult to explain well, but the basic gist is (assumes the use of a lathe):
- cut tenon or drill for delrin tenon as appropriate
- drill airway from mortis end with tapered drill bit to within 12 to 20mm of the end of the stem
- using a parting tool, cut off the length of stem you need, leaving a small nub to mark center
- if you already cut your rod to length, turn it around and mark the center of the rod with the center rest, or use a small drill bit just deep enough to leave a slight mark
- using the dremel slot cutting bit, use the nub or drill mark as guide to center your slot (I just eyeball it - no jigs for me)
- using a 1mm drill bit, drill the stem from one side of the slot you just cut at a slight angle in order to meet the existing airway (again, I just eyeball this) and repeat for the other side
- once the basic cone is made, go back in with your drill bit and clean out the remaining stem material from between the two holes you just made

Sounds simple, eh? The problem is keeping the drill bit straight throughout the entire process. You have to be able to line up you various angles and have them meet pretty darn close to where you need them. I won't lie, it takes practice, and it can be frustrating when you don't hit the mark. But, once you get comfortable doing it, you can pretty much go on autopilot.

The thing is, I do do much without any special tools or jigs, that it becomes somewhat difficult to explain all the subtleties - because I'm not usually aware of them all myself. But I think the main thing to remember here is, if you want a thin bit, you have to go thin on your slot - and the best way to do that is to use a very small drill bit to shape it.

[KurtHuhn]

Also, do your best to keep the drill bit moving in only one plane while shaping the slot. Allowing it to go in three dimensions will mean that your slot will widen considerably.

[custom300]

Kurt and ckr,

Thanks I really appreciate it.

Kurt, I basically implemented the process you describe here. But to your point, I didn't sucessfully keep the bit on an even plane, which created a crater. The tunnel was shaped properly, but it was just too thick. My analysis is that I need to slow down considerablly, and then I guess just practice.

ckr, thanks for the tip on the files/rasps. I may give them a try too.

[forrest]

I couldnt get the link to work for the broach. It says missing merchant id.l Can you repost the link?

Thanks Forrest

[ckr]

Guess there is more to that than just the web address, sorry. The link which is correct still fails without some merchant ID - it's an asp page.

try this

http://micromark.com/

and in the
search by keyword enter "broach"

or in the
search by item number enter "81847"

should get you there.

[Heinz_D]

I agree tu Kurt's description, but I use a 1.5 mm drill bit... You can shape the stem just down to 3.5 mm befor the button and the button can be 4.5 mm thick and 2.5 to 3.5 mm long. The stem will be comfortable and thin enough, I think and you can better get through with the cleaner... The button has "only" to be sharp enough, so that the pipe fits between the teeth... For that I use a oneway nailfile (paper, 1.2 mm thick). You can also cut this nailfiles as a small "V" to polish the airway in the button. Because it's flexible it works very well and you can controll it very good - but it's a lot of work... If you cut this files thin enough you can also straighten the junktion from the "V" to the airhole over the hole diameter.

So I just drill the airway with 1.5 mm, than the "V" as Kurt described and than I carefully work out the rest of the material with the drill bit. For better controll I fasten the Dremel i my vice and move only the stem and I control the stem while I direct it on a wooden guide. So you can't get out in the hight... To make the airway straight I use "selfformed" oneway nailfiles (please don't tell my wife ) I shape the front end of the button in a light concave curve and cant the edges about 45 degrees.

The last step is to polish the airway with a cleaner, polish and the drill rig with moderate speed, than clean with an alkohol saturated cleaner - that's it!

To get the stem glossy I grind down with 600er abrasive cloth, polish with steel wool Gr. 000 and than buff with brown kind of wax (don't know how to tell in english - it's from DanPipe) and with a clean buffing wheel or sometimes with carnauba wax.

[custom300]

For better controll I fasten the Dremel i my vice and move only the stem and I control the stem while I direct it on a wooden guide. So you can't get out in the hight... To make the airway straight I use "selfformed" oneway nailfiles (please don't tell my wife ) I shape the front end of the button in a light concave curve and cant the edges about 45 degrees.

This may be the piece I was missing. I was free handing with the Dremel and it just got out of hand. Great suggestion!

Also, you mentioned a 'oneway nail file'. What is that? I use nail boards that I picked up at. Is this something else?

Again, Thanks.

[Heinz_D]

Also, you mentioned a 'oneway nail file'. What is that?

This are the "files" you'll sometimes get in Hotels for your fingernails...

[ArtGuy]

I have started using a number 58 drill that I found at a hardware store next to the the tap and die stuff. I am not sure what size it is but it is smaller than 1/16 and really helps in keeping the slot clean.

[custom300]

I have started using a number 58 drill that I found at a hardware store next to the the tap and die stuff. I am not sure what size it is but it is smaller than 1/16 and really helps in keeping the slot clean.

Hi John, Do you chuck up the #58 in a dremel to do the cutting? If so, approximately what speed to you use? THanks in advance.

[LexKY_Pipe]

Here's the full Micro Mark link direct:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.as ... t&ID=81847