How close to the chamber can the delrin be?

Butch_Y · Post by **Butch_Y** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 7:59 am

I've got a stummel that was littered with sand pits all over the end of the shank and so decided to hit it with the bandsaw. I then redrilled the mortise and am now left with approximately 5/8" length of airway. I would like to put an extension on this one but am afraid the delrin tenon may be too close to the chamber.

How close can the epoxy be to the chamber?

How close can the delrin be to the chamber?

Will excessive heat from smoking ever make that extension fall off?

Would I be better off to machine a length of briar to create a new tenon/extension and epoxy that in?

Should I just scrap the block and put it on the shelf with the rest of the wanna be's?

Thanks

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:40 am

I would not try epoxy that close to the bowl, yuk! It does not take a lot of heat to go gooey.

While highly unconventional, somewhat unorthodox, nonconformest and anarchic I would apply the "Tap and Die" method. No foul glue and a percision fit firm extension for the stem to be inserted into.

http://www.pipemakersforum.com/modules. ... pic&t=1923

The one I have done has actually become a favorite

MikeStanley · Post by **MikeStanley** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:08 am

I was looking into glues a while back and found an article (which I don't have) that said glues like Elmer's Carpenter Glue were the best overall in higher heat situations. It said that type of glue was good at over 500 degrees. I can't say for sure but I don't think the bowl of a pipe gets to that temp, at least not 1/2" or so from it.
Mike Stanley
http://mikes-pipe-site.tripod.com

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:58 pm

I'm pretty sure that the ember inside a pipe is about 470 degrees F.

LexKY_Pipe · Post by **LexKY_Pipe** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 2:41 pm

I like the threading idea for a tenon that close to the chamber.

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 4:05 pm

Is the 5/8" long airway from the bottom of the mortise to the tobacco chamber? If you've got 5/8" between the bottom of the mortise and the chamber I think you'd be ok doing any of the ideas you wrote. Depending on the epoxy, it takes a lot of heat to break it down enough to fail. And if the epoxy gets that hot, chances are the smoker wouldn't be able to hold the pipe, and would set it aside long before it got hot enough to break the bond.

I've seen many bamboo shank pipes that "look" like the end of the tenon connecting the bamboo to the stummel is far closer to the chamber than 5/8", and most if not all of those are epoxied. I think you'd be fine doing anything with it! (don't hold me to that if it fails though!

) Maybe someone with more experience can confirm this?

David

Butch_Y · Post by **Butch_Y** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:17 pm

Is the 5/8" long airway from the bottom of the mortise to the tobacco chamber? [quote][/quote]

Yes. I have a bit over a half inch for the mortise and then starts the airway. I have a clean 3/8" hole drilled for the delrin and I'm thinking if I apply the epoxy carefully, it won't even come close to the airway.

I liked all the ideas and am looking forward to trying a threaded style one day but I'm curious how you fill the crease where the two come together.

Thanks everyone.

pipemaker · Post by **pipemaker** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:23 pm

Butch,

I would stick with the tap and die method. The combination of heat and moisture will eventually cause a deterioration in the strength of most glues.

Mike

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 4:57 am

I liked all the ideas and am looking forward to trying a threaded style one day but I'm curious how you fill the crease where the two come together.

Thanks everyone.

The short answer is I didn't.

Due to the length of the threaded end it is just a 'Rube Goldberg' type of pipe. I have about 5 more blocks of mesquite that are only large enough for a good bowl and little for the shank. When I can I will grind the tap so the thread is only a quarter of an inch and then maybe the bowl and stem can be shaped to a more traditional design.

On the other hand maybe one stem and five different bowls - kind of like those falcon pipes.

Having three mesquite pipes - It could be a while before I get around to this. But, after the T&D cakes up I could change my mind.

http://www.pipemakersforum.com/modules. ... pic&t=1923

ToddJohnson · Post by **ToddJohnson** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 9:32 am

Butch_Y wrote:Is the 5/8" long airway from the bottom of the mortise to the tobacco chamber?
Yes. I have a bit over a half inch for the mortise and then starts the airway. I have a clean 3/8" hole drilled for the delrin and I'm thinking if I apply the epoxy carefully, it won't even come close to the airway.

I liked all the ideas and am looking forward to trying a threaded style one day but I'm curious how you fill the crease where the two come together.

Thanks everyone.

Butch,

That's plenty of room. Just epoxy it. Make sure to score the delrin so that it creates ribs along its length. Always apply the epoxy to the tenon, never to the mortise. This way all the "squeeze-out" will be directed, well, . . . out.

Good luck,

Todd

marks · Post by **marks** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:54 am

Todd, excellent tip. Thanks for posting that.